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Showing content with the highest reputation on 02/26/2020 in all areas

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    Matchbox is joining the party. Matchbox Mix 3 to include a Nissan D21 Hardbody
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    When you clean up, use the coldest water you can stand. It closes up the pores to help keep the strands out. Hot water will make you itch way more.
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    It is a Junkers JU-88 The JU-89 was a monster!
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    I got really lucky today.... been putting in ot lately to get some jobs done at work... well I have to wait for my next part so instead of waiting around I got the option to leave early..... I ran for the door and headed to my garage..... I had about 2 hours to myself, so i busted my ass and got the intake, exhaust and carb back on.... This is what I ended up with for a pcv system...... After the carburetor is installed it does kind of disappear so that was good... Since it was in the mid 50s this afternoon I was able to go for a nice ride.... got some gas and stopped at the grocery store on my way to pick my son up at school.... both stops I saw someone taking a picture of the truck.... Happy to report no coolant leak and I now have a nice working heater and a quieter fan, everything working as it should.. as for the pcv its seems to be working as it should, I was surprised it didnt mess with the tune to bad... small adjustments at idle and driving around seemed normal..... Of course after the last few days being around 50, tomorrow its supposed to rain and then go back down into the 30s.. Atleast the truck is drivable again... i am planning to install the door seals next, I am not looking forward to this ... It should be straight forward but I know it wont be... Damn I already forgot again.... I need to swap those control arm bolts for the grade 8 that I bought.... that will be next.
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    My fuel tank was thrown in the garbage can, he just made me a whole new one.
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    We are talking electrical, so may as well start with this. There was a discussion about a month ago about batteries, and age of batteries. This is the battery currently in Ratsun, a battery I got at Pick-n-Pull more than a few years ago. I need to do some work cleaning corrosion off the hold down, and the negative cable clamp on the terminal of the battery. Notice also how thick my negative battery cable is. This is the positive battery cable. Matt, and Mike, very good suggestions. Why do I go to the trouble to make such big cables for the battery on my Datsun? All electric motors, including the starter motor are designed to do a certain amount of work. The amount of work an electric motor does is measured in Watts. Watts is simply Voltage times Amperage. If an electric motor is being supplied with 10 volts, and is drawing 100 amps, that is 1,000 watts of work. All wires have some resistance. Resistance impedes current flow, resistance tries to stop or reduce the amount of amps that can flow, and this happens because the wire loses voltage from one end to the other. A small wire has a greater voltage drop than a thick wire. A thick wire will deliver more voltage to the load it is connected to than a thin wire. One example, thinner or longer wires will make your headlight dimmer. But electric motors are even more sensitive to voltage drop. If you lower the voltage to an electric motor designed to do a certain amount of work, the motor compensates by drawing more current. In the example above, if the motor only gets 9 volts, it will try to draw 111 amps to accomplish 1000 watts of work. But it gets even worse, because you are drawing even more current through the resistance of the cable, the voltage drops even more. The speed of an electric motor corresponds to the voltage supplied to it. If you get more voltage to the electric motor, it turns faster. It draws less current. The battery voltage is also higher if the battery is supplying less current. With battery cables that are "too big" the starter spins faster. The battery actually has a slightly higher voltage, that also goes to the ignition system. The engine starts sooner because of spinning faster, and haveing more ignition voltage. Another benefit, because the engine started sooner, the battery is less discharged, and the alternator has less work to do to recharge the battery. Enough electrical theory for one post.
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    Howdy... I'm new here... here's my project 510 🙂
  14. 2 points
    Those got to be fake Eyes people, eyes
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    To add to this.... running 10" rims and 6" wide tires stretched so they tuck.... well it offends my eyes and sense of what is safe. I thought this fad was over like mad camber.
  17. 2 points
    I will be running 205 55/16 on my 66 520 but I have a 1980 720 chassis and Belltech 2" lowered spindles. I have also upgraded to the vented rotor disc brakes from a 1985 720. The wheels will be 2000 Isuzu trooper wheels. This tire and wheel combination works well for my setup. The 1980 720 chassis is the same as the 78/79 620 chassis in the front. The Isuzu wheels have a -38 offset. I might run 1/2" spacers and longer wheel studs in the rear. Frank Rizzo's Cactus Green Datsun 620 with Isuzu Trooper wheels. Frank Rizzo's Cactus Green 74 Datsun thread
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    That's Raceest
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    You have probably done this, but take the cam cover off. And look. Adjust the valves while you are in there.
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    Low oil pressure on a Datsun L motor is usually caused by main bearing wear, both on the journals and the thrust. A blown head gasket is more likely a cause of it being "locked up". If someone replaced the head gasket but did not inspect the cylinders, it could be that the pistons started fusing themselves to the cylinder bores. Not likely on a high mileage engine, but still possible. A spun rod bearing can lock up a bottom end, and is often in the "catastrophic failure" category, meaning that the rod bolts broke and the damage is too much to feasibly repair. But why do you care? You have a new bottom end, right? I would never re-use an oil pump from a blown up motor without a thorough inspection and cleaning. Small bits of metal can get lodged in the pump cavity and even in the pressure relief valve. Probably better to get a new high volume pump. Same goes for the oil pan and pickup tube. Those should be thoroughly cleaned as well. If the oil pan has baffles or a tray inside, use a pick and compressed air to blow out the creases where metal can hide. Pickup tubes are a bit harder to clean.
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    Even if the speedo is off, the odometer should only be off the 10 percent that the gear is off. Not sure if speedos are adjustable, I have only messed with a GM one a long time ago, it freaked out because I got some metal shavings on the magnet, that happened because I drilled some holes for warning lights near the speedo, I cannot recall if I replaced it or cleaned it, that was a long time ago.
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    Don't know what the wheel specs are other then they are 15's --- these are 215/65r15s on my 620; 3" blocks on the back, and backed off torsion bars up front. The rear passenger side appears to just clear the fender, the rear driver just kisses the fender. Fronts are ok--- but I don't know the wheel offset or width.
  28. 1 point
    It wasn't running when I bought it. I got it running, took it apart down to the frame, and then put it back together. I took notes and pictures but had the coil wired backwards the whole time and it ran great.Strange I know. But it did fry the electronic ignition, which is why I put new points back in. But I figured it out. The lead that comes in from the side of the distributor was touching the threaded post that secures the points. It's just supposed to touch the point spring, not the post but I didn't have the top hat looking insulator installed correctly. I fixed it and it fired right up. I'm excited to drive it again tomorrow.
  29. 1 point
    Yes.. i think it was over kill, but it is a really nice gasket. I do believe it would live up to its claims... I dont have the coolant ports on my head or in the intake so I dont have to worry about a coolant leak... the standard gasket would have been fine.... that's what I used before and from what i could tell it sealed up the exhaust to my header no problem.... I only bought this one because i kept seeing a note with the regular ones "dont use with headers"...
  30. 1 point
    I’m not a fan of stretched tires and much prefer the beefy look. I think I’m set on 15s so I don’t have to go too low profile. Very helpful information didn’t even think about the offset.
  31. 1 point
    Reached something of a milestone tonight. For the first time in months the lower cowl is all one piece.
  32. 1 point
    Ya they are just so brittle after all the years.... even the one I got, with the heater from Charlie, was just falling apart....
  33. 1 point
    Those be the ones. I had one that split in half.
  34. 1 point
    Back is a little more then that Mark. I am hellauvaflush.
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    That would make me retire from driving AA/F cars! 🤔
  37. 1 point
    Those got to be fake Eyes people, eyes
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    Tadaaj has some good parts.
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    They where only concept planes and never saw action. And the gun was a 37mm
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    In this picture there are two 521 heater cover plates, and the shifter cover plate that is going back on Dragon. The shift plate was sprayed with an epoxy primer, then a surfacer, and I sanded the surfacer. The heater covers were sprayed with PPG DPLF epoxy primer, a while ago. The instructions for DPLF say it can be top coated within a week of spraying, without sanding, it has been much longer than that. I sanded the two heater cover plates. I mixed another small batch of DPLF, and sprayed that on the heater cover plates, both sides, and sprayed the top side only of the transmission shifter plate, to cover a few bare metal spots from sanding. That was last evening. This evening, I sprayed Alasta Centari 99A pitch black on the parts. They are in the garage, under the PAR 46 lights for heat. This post is pretty much a copy of the post in another thread, about another one of my 521 trucks. One heater cover is going on Ratsun, the transmission shifter cover plate is going on Dragon, and I have other 521 trucks too. Dragon's thread starts here. https://ratsun.net/topic/49698-my-dragon-datsun-521/ Monday Jan 6, 2020 I painted the parts in the picture above, Thursday I put one painted heater cover plate in Ratsun.
  50. 1 point
    Yup, pogo-sticking is due to too soft of dampening on the shocks. Another thing you are dealing with is the 46 year old leaf springs, that are rusted on the surfaces where they slide against each other when they compress. Take them apart, sand them lengthways to remove as much of the scale as you can, then go to Speedway motors, and buy a roll of Leaf Spring Liner. It is a plastic strip that comes in a roll, with a lip on each side to keep it between the leafs of the spring, and stops the high friction that makes the springs ride rougher than they should. I don't remember what width I bought for mine (the stuff comes in 3 different sizes). Buy a tube of the thickest damn grease you can find, and lube the springs when you assemble them.
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