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Showing content with the highest reputation on 12/22/2019 in all areas

  1. 3 points
    Thanks fellas! I got confirmation yesterday that Jacob (not sure which one) had a spare stick and was only 5 minutes away. This is for a customer I built the L20B and dogleg conversion for quite a few years ago. He called me up, I told him to get on here. I'm amazed the ball broke off, never seen that happen, though I did notice the pivot bushings seemed to be gone. They were there when the conversion was done. That dogleg was actually the one in the orange 510 I used to rip around town.
  2. 3 points
  3. 2 points
    Yep! Not always easy, but totally worth it. ------------------------------------ Started on replacing the section of a-pillar that had a lot of holes. All exposed: I replaced this section, but didn't get an "after" pic for some reason. Will do tomorrow. New bit mocked up. That big gap at the top will close up once I grind a flange off the replacement part that I still need to do, to bring it all in closer to the center of the car and have the drip rail line up as it should.
  4. 2 points
  5. 2 points
    I have the stock 710 resonator and pipe to the rear to keep the exhaust speed up, then I found just a regular '$25 special' muffler but 1/4" larger inlet than the pipe I have. Probably for a V8 or large 6 cylinder. I used a reducer to connect the smaller pipe to the larger muffler. It has more flow capacity than the 1 3/4" that was on it. The outlet is just a 45o down pipe before the rear axle. It's slightly longer and bigger around than the one that was on it. It flows more with less restriction, sounds nice idling and is quiet enough on the highway. If I were looking for more sound I would get a cherry bomb style straight through glass pack for the resonator and a turbo muffler behind it. The turbo style muffler is not see through but baffled and packed with sound deadener/absorbent materials. They are all basically the same so pick what you want. Restriction = quieter.... so don't go by how a 'muffler' has less restriction because it will just be louder. You are basically paying for a hollow pipe.
  6. 2 points
    A turbo muffler with a tail pipe. Perhaps a straight through glass pack used before it for a resonator. You did say sounds best and not loudest.
  7. 2 points
    How about blowing out the lines? Bleeding the system can be done multiple ways. I usually start a dry system with one or all bleeders open then slowly pump the pedal to get fluid in the lines. I then let them gravity bleed for a half hour or so (making sure the reservoir does not run dry). The final bleed is done the old way - two people, one pumping three times slowly and saying "holding", the other at the wheel opening the bleeders saying "pump" and "hold". It's a tried and true system that works better than any kind of pressure or vacuum bleeder. I have both pressure and vacuum bleeders and I still think the old way is the best. Sounds like you already have this done, but correct adjustment of the brake shoes is crucial before bleeding.
  8. 1 point
    The hubs don't wear out. The inner and outer bearings in side are replaceable but have nothing to do with the steering. They only support the vehicle weight and let the rim and tire turn. What's the build date on the door jam? There's a lot of changes on trucks built in late '82 that were '83 model years. There are a L&R side rods, each with a ball joint on both ends plus a cross rod to link them together also with a ball joint on each end, and an idler arm that has a bushing. All these can be replaced if worn out. The side rod connects to the steering knuckle, which turns the hub. The steering box can also wear and develop some play. Judicious adjustment can remove some of this.
  9. 1 point
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  12. 1 point
    That’s awfully good sportsmanship to trade Whiskey for Schnapps.
  13. 1 point
    I measured the cable. It's the 43" one.
  14. 1 point
    Motors run better with a muffler.
  15. 1 point
    The 5th gen. I looked up an 85 corolla. I'll check my car when I get home.
  16. 1 point
  17. 1 point
    Well, it's been a battle. And even after fighting my go pro and losing, here it is. Quite possibly the first 510 with a "bolt on" holley sniper efi 2300 2 bbl. And a bluetooth controlled distributor. I wanna thank EVERYONE who has chimed in to help me with this struggle. But finally after almost 6 months, here she is running. Needs to be tuned, warmed up to temp to see that everything works. Already spotted a coolant leak at the temp sensor. No biggie. Needs to be wired properly now, and needs throttle linkage. But shes alive!!!!!!!!!!
  18. 1 point
    Not sure if the car,or the guy is a better "Chick Magnet".
  19. 1 point
    OK, so all the 620s had dual masters, so when one has a dual master you have to bleed the rear circuit first(farthest away from the master), this rear circuit has to be bled first otherwise it will be very difficult to get the air out of it if not impossible if the fronts were bled first. I have had this issue myself, in the end I had to open one of the front bleeders, stick a small hose on it and let the brake fluid drain into a jar while bleeding the rear brakes/circuit, once I was sure all the air was out rear brakes/circuit, I then re-bled the front brakes/circuit and i was good to go. Sometimes you can drive it and use the brakes a few times and then have someone go thru the brake bleeding ritual while you bleed/open the farthest rear drum away from the master, I have done this in the past to get every bit of air out of the rear brake lines, but I use a stick and do it myself.
  20. 1 point
  21. 1 point
  22. 1 point
    Only the 521 had the single master and maybe the 510. All 620s were dual master. Push down on the brake pedal with your thumb. It should move about 1/16"-1/8". There has to be some play but not a lot. From the top of pedal pad, down to bare floor should be almost 6 1/2". Is it close? Look on the side of the master cylinder. It may say the size, and that should be 11/16". I may have been replaced with a smaller 5/8" ? This would make it mushy. Have someone pump the brakes while you inspect the rubber flex lines from the frame to the wheels. The rear has a single one from the body to the differential. Do the hoses swell under pressure?? Brakes should be adjusted till the shoe just rubs the drum when turned by hand. Pump the brakes to center the shoes and check they are still just rubbing and adjust if not. Always loosen the e brake before doing the rears and re-set the e brake adjustment after.
  23. 1 point
    It is 2 feet(24 inches), It's going to be tight getting the L20b in there, it can be done with the early type fan like I have. I did it in my 1966 Datsun 520, as mentioned your going to have to make new engine mounts, if possible it would be best to get the stock mounts off a 521(cut them off), also your going to have to deal with the heater outlets, what I have done is either cut the outlets shorter and put the clamp inside the cab but have the hose make a 90 degree turn when they come out the holes or I cut the outlets even shorter and re-routed the hoses inside the cab about a foot towards the passenger side then out.
  24. 1 point
  25. 1 point
    18" of garden hose folded in half works better than anything.
  26. 1 point
    My first question would be how much play is there in the pedal before it starts pushing on the master cylinder sleeve/piston/plunger? When you say soft this makes me think there is still air in the lines, does it have the single brake master or is it a dual brake master?
  27. 1 point
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  30. 1 point
    This is EXACTLY where I am at with the 720. Finding Motivation is hard, But I really want to start driving It and not my POS Lexus. and I'll be able to move onto my next project once the Truck is drive-able, So I try to push Myself to work on it a little.
  31. 1 point
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  35. 1 point
    Things are moving slowly at the body and paint shop. I did get the trailer back. Decided to have the trailer repainted. Coupe reasons so it matches 100% the wagon and there's a dozen small things i want to see or NOT see. Vents didn't get shaved, nor did rocker holes. i put the doors on for the 1st time. and they don't fit. Thought this would of been done at the shop before paint. As a test fit. no pics photo bucket sucks
  36. 1 point
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