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Showing content with the highest reputation on 12/03/2019 in all areas

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    Are you on the facebook groups? Shared the pics on a few
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    510 Speedometer fix for Ka24de & Sr20det swaps Maybe this should be pinned? My next step this week on my Ka24de goon project is to get my speedometer working. I'm doing my homework here on Ratsun and couldn’t find anything on one thread that talks about all three components (speedometer, speedometer cable and the Mechanical Pinion Gear). The speedometer itself does not need to be modified in anyway nor does the appropriate speedometer cable though the Mechanical Pinion Gear does due to a mounting issue. I’d like to sum all of this up clearly for anyone else that maybe looking for this same information that has a Ka24de or Sr20det and transmission swap. This modification NOW seems fairly easy to do thanks to all of the users putting helpful information out there. Speedometer Cable: What I've gathered is there are two cables that have been solidly confirmed to work. Either a cable from an Automatic 510 transmission because its length is longer than the manual one, or this cable from O'reilly's Part Number: CA3083 UPC: 727993217634 confirmed by Creepy Cruiser – shot out to you man for providing this information! Mechanical Pinion Gear: VSS (Vehicle Speed Sensor) aka TSS (Transmission Speed Sensor): Here is where I actually first started - thread “KA24DE swapped wagon, needs some electrical help.” Again Creepy Cruiser providing great information with saying to use a Mechanical Pinion Gear from a 280zx, 2wd 720 pu, early 300zx, etc. User q-tip also provided Nissan Part Number: 32702-58S20 pinion assembly. From what I’ve read the “RED” gear provides the most accurate speed result on the original speedometer gauge. The new Mechanical Pinion Gear does need to be modified in order to mount to the transmission and it is highly recommended you refer to DQ Volume 9 Issue 3 Page 14 for their outstanding write up. This is my first topic post and I hope I’m not stepping out of bounds in anyway.
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    A fault with the carb is not likely to cause two cylinders not firing. Get a new cap.
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    Sorry for delayed response, the main issue is the differences in the wiring. The SMP would fit perfectly except it's only a 1 wire, the one posted for the D22 would not, as the wires are all individual and not pinned in a plug.
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    Thanks for the great pics, I'm about ready to do the same thing, looks great what you have done.
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    Well, looks like I finally solved that 2-3 upshift problem under load at WOT. Changed the fuel tank, new filter at the tank, and new filter inside the fuel pump. No more cutting out or hesitation to shift at WOT. Also spent quite a bit of time removing rust from the entire back half of the frame, 2 coats of POR-15, and some black spray paint.
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    Air can't get in, if the reservoir didn't run dry so I wouldn't think so. Every time you release the brakes the booster draws vacuum from the intake so this may sightly alter the idle, but it should return to normal. Which one was low the rear one? With engine off pump the brake several times to remove any residual vacuum in the brake booster. Step on the brake and hold. Pedal should be firm. Start engine. If the booster is working properly the pedal will drop about an inch. That a killer bunny???
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    What a great thread! I have picked up a ka24de, 5spd trans, wiring harness and ECU to swap into a 73 510. Are there any visual differences between the s13 ka and the s14 ka? I have placed the ECU to somewhere around 1990-91 so s13 240sx but seller said engine was from an s14 240sx so trying to figure out which one I have before ordering rebuild parts. The block is a bit rusty but I can't see any serial numbers on it, it is a Japan casting, not Mexico. The engine is pretty grimy but the insides are in good shape, clean cams, good compression. Thanks, Chris
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    It's a really nice 74....burnt orange. I haven't fully figured out how to post pics, but here's a couple of shots. https://drive.google.com/file/d/1GMTmDvyB-7gDeDoaLMWaghbf5boGJC1U/view?usp=sharing https://drive.google.com/file/d/1GXvc9AwUIz9uZN1AdaG6IoCdgo-AaoR4/view?usp=sharing
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    If no leaks and the fluid level is not dropping (no leaks anywhere in the system) the master is bad. This is a dual system with the front separated from the rear so if one fails the other will get you stopped but with much less effectiveness. There is a pressure switch that should remain neutral if there is hydraulic pressure in both systems, but if there is a failure on one side, the pressure in the good side will move the switch and turn the brake warning light on. The pedal dropping when the engine is started is normal. This is the vacuum brake booster adding to your foot pressure. Probably a seal has failed and one system, front or rear, and is only lightly pushing fluid or not at all. Are either master cylinder reservoirs empty of brake fluid? 1/2 full is ok. Are there any visible brake fluid leaks on any of the four wheels or any of the brake lines? Have someone watch each rubber flex line while you pump the brake. Don't forget the one from the body down to the differential. Any swelling??? If you are sure the above three questions are answered NO, then the master has failed.
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    You jogged my memory - he said it was an 89 z24i, so it’s a C
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    My 72/240z with a s38b35 M engine.
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    It’s official: Datsun season is over.
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    Was scrapped in 2006, museums excuse was "you can't save every piece of scrap metal", wow, perhaps that museum should have some one else running it, it was one of a kind.
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    My girlfriend had a 280 SE. Those points had to be perfect or that bitch would not run! I'm not saying that is what this is. But there is no doubt it's a Merc.
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    There is a photo of the tail gunner of one of these bombers saluting the US pilot with his bottle of Pepsi Cola.
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    XB-46 United States nuclear Forces, says only one was ever made, never saw active duty.
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    So...I've decided to put the car up for sale, but as it's still in my possession, I figure there's no reason to stop doing what I'm doing with it :-) There's actually been quite a lot that's happened to the car, with some cool experiences in just the past few weeks. Here goes nothing. First one was a feature in Speedhunters, which meant that I'd get to work with my good mate Matthew Everingham. We'd been talking about doing this for ten years, and now that I'm selling it, it's the very last chance we're gonna get. We spent a good evening capturing the pictures, and Matt then spent an incredible amount of time processing them. In person, you can't make out any of those pretty cityscape colours at all, and it takes quite a bit of skill to bring them out, while also having the car in the foreground looking like ten million bucks. I'm humbled by the resulting pics, these must surely be the prettiest pictures taken of any Hakosuka, ever. Click here for the article: http://www.speedhunters.com/2019/11/...ng-a-jdm-icon/ The other thing was that the Mighty Car Mods Nationals was shaping up to be a cool event, so I decided to have a go at sorting out one of the car's weaknesses, which is lots of axle tramp at the dragstrip. You can see and hear from this vid from last year, that it breaks out into axle tramp after the burnout (enough to pull the coil lead off) and even with a gentle launch at tickover revs, there's still some wheel hop on the 1-2 shift. It's fine on the street, it only becomes an issue on the super sticky, rubber coated dragstrip. [MEDIA=youtube]9Ka8OCttgs4[/MEDIA] The whole rear suspension is a diff and subframe assembly, that hangs off the body via 4 rubber bushes. Two are at the back of the diff, and the other two are at the ends of a lateral beam just under the back seat. I'd replaced the diff bushes years ago with hard poly bushes, and I suspect that meant that the rear is effectively locked, and all the movement under torque is then taken up by the front bushes only. Maybe that's what is causing the tramp issue. Anyway I thought I'd try a simple fix, as the front bushes looked to be in decent shape. You can see in this diagram below how the front bushes work. There's a 1cm gap above and below the bush; above there is a flat washer and below, is a bell-shaped washer (#9 in the pic below). This allows the bush quite a lot of vertical flex. So my solution is to remove the lower bell washer and mess with it a little. I've cut the top off the bell to leave a 42mm hole (I believe you 510 guys call this the Savage Washer Mod): And below a flat washer has been welded in place (make sure you use a washer with at least the same thickness as the bell washer) The idea is that instead of that 1cm gap, the bell washer now bolts in place a lot higher, and eliminates that gap. The 42mm hole is to accommodate the thick rubber protrusion in the middle of the bush. To bolt it in place, there's a thick spacer that went under the bell washer (which you can see in the diagram above) and I swap it to over the washer. This sat the new item just nicely, squishing the bush upwards by 3mm. This has had the effect of eliminating all downward flex, and closing the gap above the bush somewhat. On the road, it certainly seems more tight and solid back there, there's still a bit of a cushioning effect, but gearshifts and takeoffs from standstill seem to have less slack. And now...onto Sydney Dragway for the MCM Nationals, which Marty & Moog had set up with the main activities being all-day drag racing and a motorkhana too. It was a great event with lots of chilled car guys, all having the freedom to make plenty of noise in a relaxed atmosphere. It was a great day and is one of my favourite events, with almost unlimited runs on the dragstrip in the offing. I was also pretty chuffed to see that some nice drifty footage had been taken of the Hako sliding around the 'khana course, the MCM event vid is beautifully-made and we're the thumbnail, too! https://youtu.be/hNibefAkJos The khana course was just tight enough to be challenging, and open enough to let the car off the leash a little. It's the sort of thing the Hako is pretty good at, with the torque, low gearing, razor-sharp response from the Webers and the tight diff making easy work of power-turning around the hairpins. https://youtu.be/sZ7Wrdhd0ng Here are some nice pics which were kindly provided by Matt Mumford, please give him a follow at his insta @matt_mumfy The Hako is lots of fun for this sort of thing, it's really nimble and there's plenty of grip at the front from the Falken Azenis' and even though the course was pretty tight, the low gearing meant that we were almost hitting redline in second down the straights, with plenty of torque and response mid apex on the corners. GT-R Festival runs the same course every year, so I may have...a little...more practice than most :-) The other bit of fiddling I'd done, was to mess around with the rear bumpstop heights again. This is, I think, version 6. The stock bumpstops are extremely tall, and at my ride height, the car would be sitting on them permanently at static height. One of the very first aftermarket parts I'd picked up for the car were a pair of urethane bumpstops from Protec-S20 in Yokohama, but they were a bit too short and seemed to come into play at the same time as the GAB shocks bottoming out. I suspect they are to suit the Aragosta coilover set that Protec sells. So from the beginning I'd packed various things under the urethane bumpstop, from a 8mm stack of washers, to a 20mm thick nylon spacer. The washers were too low, and the tyres would occasionally rub the wheelarches on hard cornering. The thick nylon spacers seemed to come into play a bit too early, but in the past they seemed to help control the axle tramp a little, so I ran with that setup for a while. But now that I'd had a new solution for the axle tramp, the ideal compromise seems to be in the middle, and I've sawed down the nylon washers to 12mm. This seems to be the sweet spot, i can't feel them come into play on speedbumps etc, there's no body rub from the tyres and no excessive squat on a drag launch. The khana course was terrific fun, but the drags was...a more mixed outcome. Firstly the good news is that the mods worked, and the axle tramp is history. I can now launch with much more revs without fear of breaking the car. HOWEVER...this year I'm on new tyres, some Dunlop Sport GT Maxxes, which have the right look, but are nostalgia street rod tyres in a rock hard 400 treadwear rating. https://youtu.be/N75jjVdIbxU So while I now *can* launch with way more rpm, in the end it won't do any good as the new rear tyres just spin up :-) And in the end the best time I could squeeze out of her (from ten or so runs) was 14.2 @ 100mph, just a hair off the previous best. The 14in Watanabes look just perfect on the car, but it's a constant challenge to find rubber for the rear 245/50-14 size. There's always been something available when I needed it; the first were Yokohama A352s, then there were Bridgestone Eager 330s, and now the Dunlop GT Sport Maxxes. Of them all, the Yokos were by far the stickiest, but they've been out of production for at least a decade. I think maybe I need to get a spare pair of rear wheels made at Barrel Bros, and invest in some Mickey Thompsons. 14.1 is nice, but not as nice as 13.99, which will be enough for us to say that the Hako is a 13 second car :-) Hmm...maybe I shouldn't sell it.
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    I've got one of those too,except mine's ('67) almost stock. I also think that paint that plate would give a cop a good reason to pull you over (it was originally Blue/Gold).
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    A couple of nice links 😊 https://www.japaneseclassiccarshow.com/best-of-jccs-1972-datsun-510-jdm-bluebird/ Untitled by five1oh2010, on Flickr http://japanesenostalgiccar.com/japanese-classic-car-show-2019-upping-the-game-and-best-in-show/ Untitled by five1oh2010, on Flickr https://frontstreet.media/2019/10/11/for-the-love-of-old-school-cars-the-15th-annual-japanese-classic-car-show/ Untitled by five1oh2010, on Flickr
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    More MB this time than HW but some good finds nonetheless -
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    well talked with the new painter today, well the previous painter who i had work on my 521 back in 2017 only to find out he is a tweaker had did a shitty job, there are pin holes in the bondo and thru out the whole body looks like he used to much hardener and now it all has to be stripped/removed.
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