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Showing content with the highest reputation on 10/06/2019 in all areas

  1. 3 points
    Thanks for the update, @MIckey 1845 (Tanik). Looking forward to seeing the test sample. Eric
  2. 2 points
    Thanks for the PM ol' 320. I stopped paying attention to this thread a long time ago, and would have missed it. I'm in for a set and filled out the pre order form.
  3. 2 points
    Ok guys looks like my original Nissan manual is wrong again.. that manual is really junk. So theres another bolt in front that was holding it in. Got the pump all apart... And uhh yea . gonna take seal out tomorrow. but I don't see any way there is a bearing behind it, but we will see. shaft just runs in a lubricated tunnel. I know the seal has been leaking for a very long time. Could the leaky seal be making the noise on the pump??? or the casing for the shaft isn't staying lubed.?? because of leaky seal
  4. 2 points
    The insides of the shoes rub against raised bumps in the backing plate. I think lithium grease will do or brake grease at least. Lithium won't melt and run down. Put a dab anywhere metal parts chafe and rub like the adjuster slide..
  5. 2 points
    well it was hot again last night. Where you lube the backing plates? Can a somewhat loose lower adjuster move around and cause this.????????????????? seems like going to work its not as hot but coming home it real HOT. going to work I have longer strectches where I don't use the brake. Coming home the last few mile I use the brake a lot and the rim is really warm. Guy at O rileys say its the wheel cylinder. I said it never happen until I put new brake shoes. I tool the drum in to get turn just by chance the drum is out of spec
  6. 1 point
    A fella saw me pulling out and putting it back in my garage a couple of weeks ago. My 64 Formula S Barracuda I got for no reason years ago except to have fun and run the hell out of it. So if it gets sold I get some money and room in the garage. I gave the fella a price from my research on line. So now we whate. And just while I'm writing this he texted me with a thumbs up so I guess she will be leaving the stable. The good thing is I have a basic stock one that has the auto with the stick in between the bucket seats. As well as some spare parts and the cake an extra back glass. I'll get back this Sunday or Monday and let y'all know how it goes. I'll really dig the extra space if I don't put another 510 in it. I'm gonna try to delegate the money from it to use on the 510's.
  7. 1 point
    Had to run some errands and ended up having some probs with the green truck starting - I think the fuse box is fucked after 50 years ๐Ÿ˜„ Anywho. After I got started and back on the road I came across this BEA-U-TIFUL 510 on my way home. Super clean LHD with an aftermarket steering wheel and a bunch of other SSS parts on that I was drooling over before he hot the left lane and zipped off.
  8. 1 point
    I went with a 7/8โ€s figuring if that was the largest non assisted fluid delivery we could get away with. I have looked into the extended out boosters from the later trucks but not the 200 series. In your opinion a non boosted Dual circuit 7/8โ€™s is still adequate for a 2250lb 521 with serviced drums and 84 720 single piston calipers?
  9. 1 point
    Cool thanks, when I get to the trans I will check all this out. Canโ€™t feel any issues as yet. If I go with a 5 speed which I anticipate will be longer can I go to a single drive shaft or will there be clearance issues?
  10. 1 point
    For sake of argument, when I was racing SCCA ITC in a 510, our engines were putting out 120-125hp on the engine dyno. A stock L16, according to common lore, made 96 hp. That's 30% right there. Our ITC L16s were blueprinted stock engines with the 210 TK cylinder head, a U20 cam, recurved distributor, Weber DGV and Comp header with 2.5" exhaust. You've got high compression, a big cam and a good intake. I think 40% gain with your setup is not implausible.
  11. 1 point
    After 4 months finally got new wheels and tires done. Went to 4 inch blocks on rear.
  12. 1 point
    Looks good, glad you didn't cut that hole ๐Ÿ˜„
  13. 1 point
    I usually don't need help but Im stumped right now on this one I changed my brake shoes on my 521 and now the driver side rear is getting HOT!!!! doesn't feel like its dragging really. I drive into town it seems fine and not hot but when I drive to work 20 miles by the time I get there is hot and can smell it. So I replaced the drums in the rear also and still does the same. I thought maybe it was the parking brake spreader that was jamming up. I released that and now its hot again at work. Im stumped for now.. Drum out of round?(made in China) But it happen with the orginal drum and now this one. I don't get it right now
  14. 1 point
    https://www.burtonpower.com/facet-electric-fuel-pump-kit-silver-top-4-4-5psi-fac476087k.html This physically, looks identical to the 720 electric pumps. PSI is the lowest and closest to stock.
  15. 1 point
    Thank you. 84 did not specify 4x4 the way 83 did. The truck had these with a stock single master when we got it. It was not running at the time. Can these be run without a booster? Is 7/8 enough bore?
  16. 1 point
    Need help. Can any of the big brains with the Datsun experience identify these calipers. Trying to finish up on the truck. Replaced rear shoes and added a dual master cylinder from a 620 and made new lines for the front. These are supposedly brakes from a 620 but nothing I look up is similar. They were on the truck when we got it and fit behind 14โ€ wheels. Pedal is not nearly firm enough. Need to start trouble shooting but need to know what these came off of. Lugs are m12x1.25. Brackets are welded 5/16 plate.
  17. 1 point
    There was a dyno run of L18 SSS duel SUs that had that claim of 77. Stock L16 was like 65-67 or so.So having a sss cam ,200cc more 1.5 in ports duel carb only added 10hp over stock. Having 85-110 of of a L motor is really doing pretty good . 75 hp or more with a Weber DGV I would say is great also with a basic out out the stash distributor. If I could do it again I would have started out with L20s. This is just my opinion here .Im not a true expert on this but to get more hp out of a L motor is a work of art and a skill that most Ratsun people or not going to pay for when there or more torque motors like a KA or SRs out there cheap
  18. 1 point
  19. 1 point
    I guess I meant L16 2bbl base line. I would expect high 60s.
  20. 1 point
    It is. The eyelet connector is missing so I haven't a clue. I did find one when I pulled my valve cover and put it back but it was not a woven one.
  21. 1 point
  22. 1 point
    95 is as good a a good L20B.
  23. 1 point
    I thought all HP are calculated by the increase in RPMs over time.... maybe not saying this right, but third will give a higher reading than 4th because it's a lower gear and why pulls are done in 4th. Differential gearing is also factored in.
  24. 1 point
  25. 1 point
  26. 1 point
  27. 1 point
    Either one will work but if you have to be under the truck to see the mark then the wires must be mixed up. The timing scale is behind the pulley under or near the alternator and the pulley should have a small notch on it.... There will be no ported vacuum advance at idle. No carb car has had that since the late 60s but you can try connecting it after setting the advance to prove this. The only requirement is that the idle be set correctly. The port that picks up the vacuum signal is above the throttle plate and sees normal atmospheric pressure. As the throttle opens the throttle plate moves up to and above the port and intake vacuum is felt.
  28. 1 point
    Hey guys. this sucks.. I got the pump detached but it wont come out. manual says theres 4 bolts total. 2 on a bracket, a nut and bolt in front. I can get it to move up and down. its like wedged. or something.. the lines are still on it, have not disconnected, but I don't think that's it. my arms finally gave out trying to rock it back and forth..
  29. 1 point
    Alright, the truck runs like a champ if I move the choke to almost close, like 6mm closest to being fully closed. But now the issue is if I stop, then I have to manually move the choke to fully vertical, so starts perfect (hot)- in the morning I would have to move it again to make sure it closes. Would it be wise to replace the automatic choke? It is that black cover housing. I notice it is missing a piece of brown plastic, not sure if it is bakelite- any thoughts? And yes it is running lean as it does misfire when coasting, but rich on first start. Thank you all.
  30. 1 point
    Thanks for the tips that I'll keep in mind for 2021!! ๐Ÿ‘Š
  31. 1 point
    Heet is (more or less) just alcohol and as most gas is 10% ethanol it isn't going to do much. Make sure your engine is at peak temperature before the test and is in good tune. (it should be anyway) Fix ALL emissions devices as they fail. Check all hoses for cracks. Check the EGR tube for leaks that will let in any oxygen and make sure the EGR valve closes at idle... or even remove and wire brush it clean. The later 720 uses exhaust pulses and one way valves to draw fresh air into the exhaust manifold so the catalytic converted has oxygen to burn off any HCs. A new converter won't do much without air to burn with. Look for leaks on the pipe(s) to the air cleaner. Do an oil and filter change.
  32. 1 point
    Mine passed and that's good enough for me. I'll deal with it again in September 2021 LOL
  33. 1 point
    Congrats on getting it fixed.
  34. 1 point
    Driveshaft is done! Not cheap but went with 1310 joints to keep drivetrain weak spots down to the rear end ๐Ÿคฆ๐Ÿปโ€โ™‚๏ธ
  35. 1 point
    Started fabbing the exhaust this evening. I was able to clearance the tunnel/floor near the torsion bar crossmember enough to get a 2.5โ€ pipe through the area for now. In the future iโ€™ll go coilovers and remove/modify the crossmember for more room and beat the floor back into place. But for now, a few pics
  36. 1 point
    I could move the adjuster with my fingers if angled just right. I got the locking clips off and adjuster out. maybe I can just bend the clip to hold the adjuster in more solid
  37. 1 point
    I just ordered some plates but mike blue hands vid of how to slide them off thinking of it now I heard clunking from that side and my pedal would be deeper then sometimes at the top of the stroke .i took drum off and turn the adjustment wheel then brakes where better and no more clunk. I only changed the brakes knowing winter was coming and the brakes were on the thin side. Only cause the brakes were worn the adjuster wasnโ€™t causing the brakes to jam up moving the shoe to one side. Someone can post vid of adjuster removal? Iโ€™
  38. 1 point
    Mike ,Ebonics I didn't understand one thing. I can move the adjusters by hand side to side. I think this is theproplem what wayno or Daneiel said on the 12 to 25 pound tension. someone wrote I ordered new locking plates. from Datsun roadsters.com I see new adjusters and locking plates from Thailand. Has anybody have any issues ordering from Thailand?
  39. 1 point
    Remember the shoe moving out in the direction of the turning wheel has an advantage over the rear shoe. It's called a 'servo action'. Forward movement helps pull the shoe in contact with the drum. Sliding adjuster may temp. hold it in place before releasing properly.
  40. 1 point
    Here's the thread on adjusting:
  41. 1 point
    well my brakes heated up last night again. the passenger one was hot and the right side was getting warm I adjusted the slop out of the front brakes and I think this might do it. Like Mike said maybe the rears were doing to much of the work. we will see. I should have adjusted it from the beginning
  42. 1 point
    Daniel the sliding adjuster seems to be a little loose but it moves. I just showed the guys at work and it seems to work and they say the cylinder is good. so Im going home early to swap the shoes maybe that works but notice Daniel that the slider as you call it does moves more easily that the passenger side
  43. 1 point
    all the brakes are warm when driving for awhile esp going down hill. Just that the driver side rear is getting Untouchable hot. as for leading and trailing shoe the parking brake has a hole for the Parking brake pivot so its really hard to mess this up. But what I remember its usually fits both sides. Most likely a CLONE of the other. as for the cylinder being sticky it wasn't happening till I swapped the brake shoes. Im just missing something simple but not catching it. Mike as you mentioned about the leading and trailing. I thought of this also . a old guy at work told me they used to conform the shoes to the drum. But in 2oyears of owning this I never had rear proplems with the brakes on a 521 before. Its getting HOT and worried of going to fuck up the seal. I had this happen on my Jeep where the drum is out of round and needed to be TURNED on the machine to get TRU round. But the drum releases fine when I have my girlfriend hit the brakes. Maybe I will swap drums and see if it moves to the right side.
  44. 1 point
    Did you change the wheel cylinder? Could be sticking.
  45. 1 point
    Another piece made up so I can measure accurately for a driveline
  46. 1 point
    Yeah mine basically only prevents it from rattling around. That gasket you posted is probably more rare then them damn wing window gaskets.
  47. 1 point
    I kept organizing parts and putting them away this weekend. I put the heater box back together. I took it apart and cleaned it up a year ago at least, so I was a little nervous I would have a hard time remembering where things went. I had to drill and tap a few holes where rusty bolts broke off, or were missing. Other than that it went back together without any trouble. When I pulled the dash I noticed that the glove box wasn't in great shape. I decided to try making one out of steel. If it worked out great, if not it would be good practice for the metal shaping and welding that needs to be done. It worked out really well, and I like it a lot more than the old glove box. I am in the middle of repairing some holes drilled in the dash. I have it very close to straight with the hammer and dolly, but the metal is a little stretched. I want to try a shrinking disc to get it a little straighter before i weld the holes.
  48. 1 point
    Here are a couple pics of the Rover on Barrett Lake Trail last fall. That trail has been closed for about 5 years so it was pretty rough, but the Rover just soaks it up. It's not comfortable, but it does everything I point it at.
  49. 1 point
    Here are a few progress pics. The driver side door is straight. I got the dents worked out. It still needed body filler over a lot of it, but it isn't thick like it was before. I used paint stripper to remove whatever rubber spray is on the inside of the doors. When I was shrinking the metal, it would start to burn when I was using the torch. I coated the inside with Bill Hirsch miracle paint, and will probably spray a layer of POR 15 rubberized undercoating to help with sound deadening. I finished scuffing the spray paint off of the heater box and painted the inside with miracle paint to keep it from rusting any more. There was some rust that needed cut out of the driver side door jamb. I cut out a rust hole, and found a mess. Someone had filled it with foam spray. I was able to get it all out, and will weld a patch when I borrow my dads mig welder. I pulled the blue headliner that was added, and found that the original headliner was still in there underneath. It comes off easy in the spots that aren't dried out. Where it is dried up it is tough to scrape off. It might take a while to clean it up.
  50. 1 point
    Over the weekend I spent most of my time installing a shop light, light switch, and outlet next to a workbench I made out of my brothers old kitchen cabinets. Once that was done, I got back to work on the harness. I got a few packages in the mail. One was the kit from vintage connections, the other was a few single wire light bulb pigtails from summit racing to replace the burned out wires for the gauges. The pigtails weren't the right size, and I couldn't find anything at the local part stores. I decided it would be easier to just dremel them down than to keep looking for a part that fit. I have most of the under dash harness wired now. I need to connect the switches to the main loom, then I will move to the harness in the engine bay.
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