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Showing content with the highest reputation on 10/06/2019 in all areas

  1. 5 points
    You could box your scrap, with fake shipping labels, then leave one box at a time on your doorstep, and let people steal it....
  2. 3 points
    Thankyou for updating the order form, I ordered what I needed.
  3. 3 points
    Thanks for the update, @MIckey 1845 (Tanik). Looking forward to seeing the test sample. Eric
  4. 3 points
    Apologies for the inactivity. There's been a lot of work to catch up on, and we're doing our best to get the first test sample finished in time for AAPEX. A few days ago, I was in a conference call with @ol' 320 (Eric), @trakker98 (Jerry), and AAS's owner, Kitisak. Eric and Jerry will be coming to AAPEX and bringing a 320 window frame so we can test for fitment at the show itself! Quite looking forward to this. If anyone is coming to the show, please drop by -- we'd love to meet you! As we progress further into the project, I or another member of the AAS team will be posting pictures to show how things are coming along. Given the condition of the test sample provided to us by Jerry — and our efforts so far — we estimate it'll take 60 days to 180 days until the seals are finalized. It really depends on the results of the first test fitting at AAPEX, which will give us an idea of how much more work we'll need to do. So if anyone still wants to get their pre-orders in, please click on this link! We'll send everyone a Paypal invoice for the 30% deposits after tha pre-order period. I've received suggestions to extend the deadline until AAS can get some progress pics, which is a good idea. I'll confirm with the owner afterwards. https://forms.gle/4QzRTAktXaXTCqxx6 An oversight on my part. The form has been amended. For anyone who'd like to order multiple sets, please specify your desired order quantity in the last section: https://docs.google.com/forms/d/1sgLW7XgG2Zr8_bTQCLBH_QCCOXyipbW3jE10UgJ0Plg/edit
  5. 2 points
    Thanks for the PM ol' 320. I stopped paying attention to this thread a long time ago, and would have missed it. I'm in for a set and filled out the pre order form.
  6. 2 points
    U joints have to speed up and slow down when turning around a bend so two are used that are 1800 to each other. The one accelerating cancels out the one decelerating. But only if the angles are equal. Note left side is constant speed but right has to speed up and slow down. Probably not able to see the change. Usually 1" spacer under the carrier for every 2" of drop... but this is just 'close enough'. Best way is a drive line level gauge. Borrow one. Angle in equals angle out. Measure with truck sitting on ground and if picky, a full tank and someone in the driver's seat. Measure the front and rear drive shaft angles and compute the angle at the front U joint. Now measure the drive shaft and differential angle and work out that bend angle. They must equal each other or vibration will be the result. Two bolts to remove the strap that holds the carrier rubber doughnut. Place spacers between it and the frame to raise it and re check both angles. When the middle and differential angles are equal, make something more elaborate, drill holes and get longer bolts. The transmission and middle U joint are in a straight line so raising one end will produce equal angles on the front drive shaft. Some drop blocks have a built in wedge to tilt the differential, but again this is someone else's idea of what should work.
  7. 2 points
    Hey Steve, there's a Twin Cam MGA for sale out here. The guy only wants $17k for the whole car. Imagine the twin cam head in your 320!!!
  8. 2 points
    As the weight of the trucks went up so did the brake caliper size. Larger calipers need more fluid so the original masters have to travel farther to do this and the pedal travel will feel 'mushy'. You can increase the fluid delivery by using a larger diameter master but as you can't get something for nothing... the effort goes up to push it. Most all Datsuns use a master to reduce the effort. To be fair, a smaller master will still work and the extra travel allows you to modulate the braking during panic stops. You can brake closer to wheel lock up and even recover from lock up while at the same time continuing to brake. I have a 15/16" master (with the stock booster) on my car with larger calipers and I like it. Without the booster reducing the effort needed to achieve the proper brake line pressure the pedal would feel like it has a brick under it. If you go up to 7/8" don't be surprised if you find this. The 620 and the B-210/210 use a small booster that is close to fitting a 521. Most if not all dual masters will already have a disc brake residual valve in it for the fronts. The 15/16" master I used was from a 280zx with rear discs so the rear residual valve had to be swapped for one for use with drum brakes.
  9. 2 points
    Here are pictures of the 69,
  10. 2 points
    The front disc brake brackets are first gen Mike klotz Brackets that he designed for the 14" wheels using the vented rotor and calipers from the later 720s. This is what you have on your 521, a very well designed and strong disk brake setup. Mike klotz did the only one that designed for the 14" wheels.
  11. 2 points
    Has everyone forgot what this engine is, it has pop-up/domed pistons, it is a high compression engine, and it also has a side draft Weber I think, this is not a stock engine and stock numbers do not apply here.
  12. 2 points
    Knocked out a big portion of the project today. Managed to bend all the fuel lines under the hood. Well most of them. Still need to run a full length return. I'm contemplating insulating the lines where they are near heat. Maybe that's overkill, you guys tell me.. I need to know which way the motor torques when it moves. I'm not sure my fuel hose from back side of motor to the firewall is long enough to flex. I know its gonna go left or right... The tube ends. Not perfect, but who cares. I did install the temp sensor into the t housing. A guy on YouTube, which I've mentioned before, installed his temp sensor in his t housing. It ran too. Not saying drove, but ran. So I think ALL of you guys were right. Just saying. I plan to tap all the remaining holes in the housing with 1/4 npt and plug. Minus one for a bypass to lower end. It's getting closer. I can see the light. Only thing left is everything else.
  13. 2 points
    Ok guys looks like my original Nissan manual is wrong again.. that manual is really junk. So theres another bolt in front that was holding it in. Got the pump all apart... And uhh yea . gonna take seal out tomorrow. but I don't see any way there is a bearing behind it, but we will see. shaft just runs in a lubricated tunnel. I know the seal has been leaking for a very long time. Could the leaky seal be making the noise on the pump??? or the casing for the shaft isn't staying lubed.?? because of leaky seal
  14. 2 points
    Exhaust is basically finished. A couple band clamps to allow for removal in the future as necessary. Otherwise.... now I gotta get my ass in gear to finish the wiring and the few minor details to drive her before winter hits!
  15. 2 points
    Floor welds all ground down, and front seat mount welded in. Welds still a little visible, but way cleaner than before. i got measurements from someone as to the correct place to weld the front mount in (holes 32" from the firewall) and put it 1/2" farther back than that as I have really long legs. Need to grind down the welds on the seat mount next too. Had to widen it a little on the trans-tunnel side (as the tunnel was a slightly different angle due to the patch), and create a 1.5" section where it meets the rocker due to where it was sawzall'd out of the car it was in. Rear mounts dropped in to test. I'll need to remove the old floor bits from them so I can weld them in next. Stuck the seat and steering column in to check legroom/fitment. The holes at the front visible here and the rear mounts are all that's left till the floor is done. Feels good to finally be able to sit in the car again after ~3 years! Next up is the aforementioned floor patches, and on to pulling the engine and trans!
  16. 2 points
    I know guys. I have been diagnosing this for a while and last year I decided it was the pump making the niose, I had a stetha scope on it numerous times and the noise was definitely in the pump.. if I am wrong so be it, but that my conclusion. I wanted it to be the adjuster pulley, believe me. I have the bearing and seals for the pump... If I cant do it, I will just have to get a rebuilt.. After I take a nap,, gonna get the frikkin thing out!!
  17. 2 points
  18. 2 points
  19. 2 points
    The insides of the shoes rub against raised bumps in the backing plate. I think lithium grease will do or brake grease at least. Lithium won't melt and run down. Put a dab anywhere metal parts chafe and rub like the adjuster slide..
  20. 2 points
    well it was hot again last night. Where you lube the backing plates? Can a somewhat loose lower adjuster move around and cause this.????????????????? seems like going to work its not as hot but coming home it real HOT. going to work I have longer strectches where I don't use the brake. Coming home the last few mile I use the brake a lot and the rim is really warm. Guy at O rileys say its the wheel cylinder. I said it never happen until I put new brake shoes. I tool the drum in to get turn just by chance the drum is out of spec
  21. 1 point
    A fella saw me pulling out and putting it back in my garage a couple of weeks ago. My 64 Formula S Barracuda I got for no reason years ago except to have fun and run the hell out of it. So if it gets sold I get some money and room in the garage. I gave the fella a price from my research on line. So now we whate. And just while I'm writing this he texted me with a thumbs up so I guess she will be leaving the stable. The good thing is I have a basic stock one that has the auto with the stick in between the bucket seats. As well as some spare parts and the cake an extra back glass. I'll get back this Sunday or Monday and let y'all know how it goes. I'll really dig the extra space if I don't put another 510 in it. I'm gonna try to delegate the money from it to use on the 510's.
  22. 1 point
    I went with a 7/8”s figuring if that was the largest non assisted fluid delivery we could get away with. I have looked into the extended out boosters from the later trucks but not the 200 series. In your opinion a non boosted Dual circuit 7/8’s is still adequate for a 2250lb 521 with serviced drums and 84 720 single piston calipers?
  23. 1 point
    Looks great. How much was the brake kit?
  24. 1 point
    Thanks. Not positive why my doors are a shade darker then the body but will fix when I paint the engine bay. Next project is reupholstering the interior. Here’s a peak at the materials.
  25. 1 point
    I think someone posted a picture of that guy's garage here.
  26. 1 point
    I used a stock brake master with no booster on my 521 work truck for a decade or more, but I had to remove the residual valve from the master, if it is not removed the front brakes will drag and eventually seize as the brake master is not made for disc brakes as it has a 10lb residual valve. I now have power brakes on all my 520/521 trucks, I use 73/74 Datsun 620 boosters, I use the 1979 Datsun 620 brake master, and all have the 83-85 Nissan 720 brake calipers/rotors, well the 520 may have the 1986+ calipers/rotors, at one time I had the 1990 Nissan hardbody V6 dual piston calipers on the work truck, but a couple years ago I changed them when doing a Chassis conversion.
  27. 1 point
    Thank you. 84 did not specify 4x4 the way 83 did. The truck had these with a stock single master when we got it. It was not running at the time. Can these be run without a booster? Is 7/8 enough bore?
  28. 1 point
    Take a photo of the back of the caliper.
  29. 1 point
  30. 1 point
  31. 1 point
    I’m about 1.5 hours out. Leaving around 7-7:15. Should be at the meeting spot a little before 9. Truck got a new sticker and a rinse today.
  32. 1 point
    Doesn't matter what it reads unless you compare to another engine. It's a great tool for fine tuning small amounts of hp you can't feel driving. It points out what's working and what isn't under real load conditions. I don't suppose you made a base line pull before 'improvements" were made?
  33. 1 point
    I've always heard Mustang dynos are rather generous...
  34. 1 point
  35. 1 point
    That's a possibility .... the shop has a great reputation, mostly high horsepower efi stuff.... so I hope he knows what's right.... I emailed just to see.... even if I am making less hp I'm still happy with how it went and how it performed... plus I didnt destroy the motor so that's good.....
  36. 1 point
    The choke flap is hooked over the choke coil inside that round black plastic thing. Behind the coil is an electric heater that warms it at a set rate. As the coil unwinds for the heat the choke flap opens. The choke needs a switched 12v supply to power the choke heater.
  37. 1 point
    Haven't been able to spend much time working on the problem this week, but got this inline fuel filter on last night. Took some time to get it to fit in there well. Also, checked and cleaned the carb filter screen again. It looked fine.
  38. 1 point
    Thanks for the tips that I'll keep in mind for 2021!! 👊
  39. 1 point
    Mine passed and that's good enough for me. I'll deal with it again in September 2021 LOL
  40. 1 point
    Small notes. The 2.0 steering ratio is heavy of course at low speed but feel great for highway cruising and such. Auto X in a week to see how it feels on the track. New throttle body setup feel smooth and linear. I like it much better. Bigger turbo, certainly as more lag but it's not a fair comparison seeing's how the old turbo had no oil viscosity to spin 100K rpm in. I'm only running on 7psi stock waste gate right now. I'm interested to see how much the boost solenoid improves the situation. Hasn't let loose yet.
  41. 1 point
    Where do I begin? - They sent the old Chevy leaf springs to the wreckers. Mistake. Never throw away leaf springs. - The engine is a freakin mess. Hopefully they will clean it at some point. - The engine is still completely assembled. Maybe they did this on purpose, to get the layout just right, but I like to have it stripped down. Accessory drive, intake, hoses, etc. Just makes building that much easier. - Staggered valve covers? This is surprising to them? Don't they know why the banks of a V engine are offset from each side? No, it's not for steering... - Paint on exhaust manifolds? Lame. Wrapping cast iron exhaust manifolds? Even more lame. - The whole trailer and scrap yard scenario was a joke. Hit your own trailer with a sledge hammer? That's productive. - Stacking steel tubes to take up space for brackets? Hack. Again, it's cool they are building this, but are they really that bad? Hard to believe they suck that hard. Maybe it's just for show.
  42. 1 point
    after driving a few days I think the brake is fixed. pretty much it was the adjuster. Having neglected my brakes for a few years One really does need to clean the str adjusters and even lube them. Thenking about it now when I heard and felt the cluck in my brakes that was it all along just that the rear shoe was worn enough not tojam up on one side but when putting the NEW shoes on it just locked it self up. I suggest anybody owning a 521 to get new spare drums as they are still cheap and shoes ,Unlike the 510 , Drums which are 80$ apc I believe on Rockauto. once no demand they just dump the parts to stock parts that sell Partsgeek.com has shoes also for 521. but Rockauto has the cheapest of the drums. I got Raybestos and just order the Bendix brand and they have the jack screw holes on them already. O rileys want $44 apc for them. also I saw centerlinks for like 35$ either on Rockauton or Partsgeek cheap. Nice to have a spare Put Antiseize on back sde of drum were they maye and one should be able to take them off by hand
  43. 1 point
    Started fabbing the exhaust this evening. I was able to clearance the tunnel/floor near the torsion bar crossmember enough to get a 2.5” pipe through the area for now. In the future i’ll go coilovers and remove/modify the crossmember for more room and beat the floor back into place. But for now, a few pics
  44. 1 point
    It's late MGA / early MGB that I got from Victoria British in Kansas. You can probably get same cover from Moss Motors. Seems that it was about $70 and the deluxe chrome securing nuts were about $12-$15. I also ended up getting one of the silicone gaskets as I went through two or three cork gaskets that all seeped a little oil here and there. The gasket was about $20-$25 but, I figure, worth it. I did mount the 'Datsun 1200 tag off the original stamped cover on the alloy cover. There was a cast in octagon MG logo next to the Datsun tag that I drilled a hole through to mount the ventilation tube in. I have a pic of the label with part number on the box that the alloy cover came in that I can dig up if you'd like it. I believe that I posted a pic of the label in my 'Mighty Mouse' build thread in the 320 forum here.
  45. 1 point
    Yeah, there should be two.
  46. 1 point
    How has it been a month since i’ve touched it?! Got exhaust parts. Still waiting on a pair of 90° bends to begin fabbing the exhaust up but everything else is here and waiting for me I REALLY wanted to have a through body tip out of each lower beside like this but the driveline is destroying my budget Going with this style; though about cutting a rectangle and going through the body with it but.... It’s not the look I want and patching it later will be a ton of work so i’ll angle them down like so and reassess in the future
  47. 1 point
    well my brakes heated up last night again. the passenger one was hot and the right side was getting warm I adjusted the slop out of the front brakes and I think this might do it. Like Mike said maybe the rears were doing to much of the work. we will see. I should have adjusted it from the beginning
  48. 1 point
    You can dump that thing at my place when your done with it. :)
  49. 1 point
    Matt. I don't know they were sealed plastic wrap in pairs and assume they are correct but maybe placed together wrong?. I will recheak this weekend. Just had jack truck up 15times and tired of doing it. Never had this happen before in 20yrs of ownership Wayno the ebrake cable broke years ago so there is no tension on there. the drums come right off as I antiseize the shit out of them now. so there is no dragging going on and off once I get them centered on. I also bleed it to release all tension from the cylinder.
  50. 1 point
    Once you finish this restoration, you will need to change your moniker. You won't be a newb anymore.
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