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Showing content with the highest reputation on 08/21/2019 in all areas

  1. 4 points
  2. 3 points
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  4. 3 points
    $7 shipped. The original image came from Steve's NL.
  5. 3 points
    My odds of winning are getting better with every win failure! LOL
  6. 3 points
  7. 2 points
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  9. 2 points
  10. 2 points
    Wew, grats grats! Imagine being 1 away from winning the first time, then winning in the end after 2 re-rolls. Also can't help but notice ]2eDeYe's own name on the list 😛 Thanks for putting this on ]2eDeYe!
  11. 2 points
    Post 30, Roguefrag step right up and claim your prize..... or not, whatever... lmao
  12. 2 points
  13. 2 points
    I got the motor and the truck just need the mounts. 😁
  14. 2 points
    In a funny turn of events, due to ka24s being very hard to come by here and the fact I'm 99% done on an r1 carb swap, I'm going to have to pass these up! Crazy luck he's having giving these away!
  15. 1 point
    I guess you live up to you name....
  16. 1 point
    You can dwell on the past or think ahead to the future but like I said you're doing it from your now. There is only a seemingly infinite number of cereal nows that are 5.39 × 10 −44 seconds apart. So many nows..... so little time..... (sigh)
  17. 1 point
    sweet , hopefully lower end is as nice
  18. 1 point
  19. 1 point
    When I was young, and was always playing around with the engine in my 510s, having the holes plugged meant that I could remove the intake and not have to drain the coolant. This was nice, as we were always doing something with the induction. Having the coolant run through the intake helps keep things cool, but as with small block Chevys and Fords, it is also a potential leak that gets into the engine. Good gasket, plus studs (instead of bolts) holding the manifolds on, and clean, flat gasket surfaces are a must for keeping the gaskets intact. I always run a ring of high temp orange RTV around the water ports on both sides of the gasket as insurance. If you use the right amount, you don't even see it.
  20. 1 point
    Depends. The Z series were bulged on the right and the 1980 with the L20B were bulged on the opposite side...
  21. 1 point
    Congrats to who ever claims the mounts!
  22. 1 point
  23. 1 point
    Wayno's adapter plate needs a little bit of massaging to get exhaust thru to back.. Took a grinder and a die grinder and fucked some shit up... should be able to fit exhaust easily now. My neighbor Juan-Ear already put a Waynoplate in his 411 so knew how much needed to be ground off. Starter has been clocked down so far the inside of tranny starter hole needs some whittling also that's all i got
  24. 1 point
    Great suggestion! I'll add that to the list! May have to end up starting a new thread dedicated to the blue truck, as I finally sprung as to a direction to head for a power plant today. Swooped up a Manual Miata 5-Speed tranny today after work: Hopefully going to meet up with a guy later this week to get a KMiata adapter plate and start pricking out a Honda K20/K24. The build purpose of the blue truck is to make something that there is a ton of aftermarket parts for (can easily turbo or NA build) and if something blows up, I can easily piece it back together. Plus, Bro and I wanna do something not everyone else has done before.
  25. 1 point
    No matter what has happened or might happen, as I write this, now, has moved letter by letter to the period at the end and then moves on. It's always NOW
  26. 1 point
    I have two 720s: 2wd built 11/83 4wd built 12/83 Both with z24 motor Which one of these books should I purchase? Admittedly the old school Datsun book looks cooler, but not sure if I'd be missing any changes made on the 84 models. My trucks should both be 84 year models.
  27. 1 point
    You have two '84 model years. Not '83. The choice is obvious.
  28. 1 point
    Been a bit since I've updated. Some of the prep was for powerland. Put in a 510 aluminum radiator. Picked up a pair of 720 4x4 springs from pick n pull. Made my own air stacks, using a backing plate of a 411 sss filter, and used a press and trailer hitch ball to create a cone. Not perfect, probably not practical, but it works. Due to being lowered four inches, I went ahead and made a carrier bearing spacer, and replaced the carrier bearing rubber with a 1 inch sheet of rubber. Might be temp, might be permanent.
  29. 1 point
    I can mic mine but not till I get home on Friday.
  30. 1 point
    I find the spring softer to return in the 1/2 than if in the 5th/R. I guess the 1/2 gets more use. The spring under the cap us quite strong but like I said I shimmed mine. If there is any wear on the button under the spring flipping it 180 would make the 5th/R a bit softer and the 1/2 firmer? Maybe.
  31. 1 point
  32. 1 point
    I can pull hole spacing out of the engine bay tomorrow for you and some other dimensions FYI: http://www.zzxdatsun.com/catDecals.php pictures from this morning edit: reference: 4" across for the size of the plate: 2.75" height: hole locations measured 3.75" from outside edge: 2.5" for height measurted on the outside save the images or right click on them and "open in new tab" if you're on google chrome and you can zoom way in.
  33. 1 point
    Yes I think I should have left the "P" out of my comment....
  34. 1 point
    You should leave the engine designation completely blank, so guys who have a swapped in engine can stamp that engine type and number.
  35. 1 point
    I believe the "P" stood for the "Premium" L-1600 OHC engine. The 1300 engine 521 trucks were just L521 in the USA. This is the owner's manual that came with PL521-355167, purchased July 30, 1970. The TU (H) is a suffux that indicated the type of emission equipment on the truck and engine.
  36. 1 point
    Yes earlier ones have the j motor.... I think they got the l16 in the 70 model.... The pl prefix i believe stands for left hand drive..... I would assume there would be some differences to the way the plate was printed....
  37. 1 point
  38. 1 point
    Definitely interested.
  39. 1 point
    Use a large washer to cover it. Tighten bolt to 90-120 ft lbs.
  40. 1 point
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  42. 1 point
    Chose these wheels and tires, 15 inch US Wheel, and 155 -80 15 tires. Retains similar overall diameter and slightly more offset. https://www.dropbox.com/s/wbcw9qnlc2e45zk/20190426_153949.jpg?dl=0
  43. 1 point
    Good choice. Almost zero maintenance, no adjusting, fewer parts to go bad, easy to change pads. Stops about the same as well adjusted drums BUT can absorb extreme emergency stops or continued punishment that would cause fade on drum brakes.
  44. 1 point
    Shifter pedestal tweaked and test fitting thereof... Fit up a more appropriate horn button too...
  45. 1 point
    I'm quite used to having to 'splain my license plates. My Smart Car's plates say "AGENT 86" and I have to learn people about that all the time.
  46. 1 point
  47. 1 point
    I didn't know an old Dodge van had resale value! 🤣🤣🤣
  48. 1 point
    There are a few 620 4x4 trucks up in OR, I would save back about $3000 and await for one to pop up. I had a stock rare 620 4x4 with twin stick case and bubble back window for head room. They crop up every 3 months or so if your looking. The 79-85 solid axle Yota stuff is strong, cheap, plentiful, and upgradeable.
  49. 1 point
    If it's a 1980 Datsun 720 chassis/frame it will likely bolt right in, but I would ask why as you already have a ball joint/disc brake frame.
  50. 0 points
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