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Showing content with the highest reputation on 07/16/2019 in all areas

  1. Looks good! I use non corrugated carboard like cereal boxes for making templates.
    2 points
  2. Got the condenser mounted today also... Had to clearance things a bit.... From underneath... And installed... I was actual able to tap the holes in the condenser for 1/4- 28 bolts. I want to add another 2 brackets at the bottom.... and I still need to clean up the edges and paint the exposed metal.. Inside evap system will be mocked up next and then I can start routing the hoses....
    2 points
  3. I havent kept up much with every little detail of change like I used to. But I went to IA in Nashville this past weekend. Truck's running really good this summer after a carb adjustment. Seems happier with Valvoline over the Pennzoil I had in it previously. Put spacers on the front so they are flush with the fenders and they look a lot better. Going to have to cut a hole in the bed to fill up fuel. No way to make the one on the dually fender work. I found some center caps for the front and hub caps for the rear, really digging them. Thinking this winter about a dump bed, just throwing out idea
    2 points
  4. Early work day allowed me to get some more work done..... I ended up adding metal to the bottom of the bracket..... Now I can get 5 bolts in, I still didnt bother with the 6th, because after I mount the compressor I'll still need to adjust it..... Pretty happy with it.... I also made templates and noted the proper location of the holes.... I still need to cut them out better but for now I just wanted get traced out....
    2 points
  5. think it looked better stock.
    2 points
  6. 1 point
  7. Squeeze some 3m weatherstip adhesive in there, get creative with some type of "clamp" and leave it alone overnight probably do more damage to it trying to remove it for double sided tape
    1 point
  8. building cars for a purpose is where it's at.
    1 point
  9. My tail light would fill with water so I drill a small hole in housing. I also used anti seize on the ground side of my bulbs so they don't rust in there(just the ground side otherwise it shorts out
    1 point
  10. NSC581 is the heavy plate otherwise the $80-90 range Exedy is just a stock 350KG unit but fits.
    1 point
  11. Two sided tape. But good two sided tape nothing cheap.
    1 point
  12. If all else is well, just put studs on the ones you can't put bolts into, then you can thread nuts on as you install the bracket with the compressor already attached.
    1 point
  13. 2 bolts is not enough the bracket will eventually break. Getting there though. 1980 720 L20B had an AC mounted under the air pump on the drivers side of the engine.
    1 point
  14. So it definitely is the hard line, down into the tank?
    1 point
  15. Today I threw everything at it with no avail. I bought some stainless steel cable and attached it to my drill and tried to force it out that way. Nothing. I also tried hitting it with more carb cleaner and even PB blaster. After that, I put an air fitting on my bike pump and gave it 100psi, which it held completely for 15+ minutes. I kept going back with more carb cleaner and PB and hitting it with the pressure again. The best I can get is an occasional trickle of air coming though, but it's nothing near what it needs to be. I am somewhat concerned that even with it out, I won't be
    1 point
  16. datzenmike. I had to go back over his question.His first post said the center of the wheel is larger than the hub. He is centering by the lugs & nuts. An out of round wheel stud hole won't center. That will cause a real good vibration, just before the studs sheer off. Don't ask how I know. It was an experience not soon forgotten. Chopper Jim
    1 point
  17. Most shops with an old-school valve grinder can refinish the rocker pads. Mike's process of polishing them will also be the final step after grinding if necessary. You can still get new rocker arms on Rockauto and elsewhere. You could also upgrade to a more common valve size if the valve seats are replaced.
    1 point
  18. I wish I started with L20s.!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! But I hated to see motors go to waste so I rebuilt L16/18s then wished shit I should have done a L20 as I had a L20 in a 510 and hauled as and it was just a basic cammed dual carbed motor.
    1 point
  19. I have a W53 that has 1.30exhausts valve but just look up L16 to L18 parts and all is avail. Look up Rockauto or other sites for specs. even Nissan still has parts. Hopefully you don't get ripped off to bad. Best to find a Import engine builder that knows Nissan or Ja cars and aluminum heads. As cant find parts they are LOOSERS already and going to ream you!!! Its a common part. maybe ezer to just find another motor some is getting rid of. hopefully if they do the valve seats its perfect across the board as this can affect lash pad size or wear on the cam. rocker arms have to
    1 point
  20. Yeah, part numbers are are. BTW - I went to the salvage yard yesterday and pulled a whole bunch of clips from Nissan Xterras, Pathfinders, and HArdbody (D21's). After paying $2ea at Nissan for the exact 720 clips (though they are the wrong color - I think they should have been black, not grey), I pulled the clips from my Xterra's and they are almost exactly the same and should fit just fine. I'd try that out first before paying retail for this stuff. I found that most of the clips stayed in the back of the grille's, so if the grille has been removed from the vehicle, check there first. It
    1 point
  21. Pretty much all the same parts. Valve face widths and seats vary but length, keepers, rockers, springs, pivot posts, 'mouse trap; springs, cam sprockets... all the same. All cams will interchange and the L20B cam is almost identical to the L16SSS and L18SSS cam engine with the flattop pistons and dual SU carbs. A modest upgrade. Most head parts don't need replacement. The cam lobe and rocker interface can wear, most likely from running today's oils that don't have enough ZDDP in them. Zinc is an anti scuff additive and should be around 1,000 PPM unlike passenger car oils which are
    1 point
  22. It's not worthless. Value is bestowed on something when someone needs something someone else has. I have several L20Bs out back and enough parts to build one or more so even if I lived next door you would pretty much have to pay me to take it. In this case it is worthless to me because I don't have the need. The takeaway here is there has to be a market. A $400 engine is $400 in your city but for a buyer in Alaska with the added shipping costs $600-$800 is no deal. So a market close to you is beneficial. An L20B is more likely to have value to someone who owns a Datsun
    1 point
  23. anyone want to photoshop this a little lower please?
    1 point
  24. I wasn't clear. With the truck flywheel you can use the 280 and 300zx clutch and pressure plate. Car KA guys do this and it's called the White Bunny
    1 point
  25. If you can, get the truck flywheel with a 9 bolt pressure plate.
    1 point
  26. Welp, there are some problems, banjo bolt snapped yesterday on the water port. The water was leaking from it so I tried to tighten it a bit more, but.. .. Had to take whole turbo out. I bought new banjo bolt today that was lot thicker than the previous one, bought new copper washers too. Well, what's better than one broken banjo bolt, two banjo bolts! I'm getting another new banjo bolt later today. This is just so frustrating. I'm supossed to start the car for the first time tomorrow and I have invited some ppl to watch. Now I'm stumbling with banjo b
    1 point
  27. B310 turbo coupe is almost ready to fire up. I contacted one of the local radiator shops and they said it would cost around 350 euros to get it fixed.. sigh. The fuel tank is ready, I would like to cover it with some undercoating on top of the paint layer. Today I picked up the braided hose for the clutch and got it all assembled: No leaks so far, pedal feels good. I could soon start bleeding the brakes too while waiting for the radiator to get fixed. I might look if there would be a cheaper solution outside of Finland or something.
    1 point
  28. Good and bad news. Good news: I got the over axle pipe welded ready: with heaps of room everywhere, I'm so happy how it came true: And getting day by day a bit better at welding with TIG I guess: Then tightened all the water and oil lines to the turbo: Sloshed RE85 in the tank and sure enough the old varnish vanished in an instant, leaving me really black RE85: some small rust spots were left behind, but all in all I was pretty happy with the result: Then I proceeded to pour the POR15 in
    1 point
  29. let some else do the KA and you buy it at halfprice.
    1 point
  30. YOull use the spares believe me Oh as for 520 and 521 all body/suspension/some brake parts are in SAE sizes and the 620 went to all metric. REMEMBER THIS!!!!!!! of coarse motor is all metric on both like one time I lost a radiator bolt . so i got one from a 510 and wonder why it was hard to get in. Duh!!!!!!!!!! 521 is SAE 5/15x24 threads. then I needed longer ones when installing a Chammpion Radiator with 1/4 spacers but since your driving the 620 its all metric. Just becare grabbing 520/521 body parts
    1 point
  31. i know what you mean, i got frustrated even one month into getting this up and running because i was so excited to drive it and i couldn't. i have acquired several boxes of spare parts in case, hopeful i won't ever have to use them lol. Just got the alignment and am about to go pick it up. thought i'd share a story about this morning. Went to take my truck to get an alignment this morning and realized I lost my key since I pulled it in the garage to work on it this past weekend. It was a new key, had it made since I bought this truck and the original owner had lost the original. Fo
    1 point
  32. No worries! Did I mention it's a KC? ;)
    1 point
  33. guess it depends what day you ask me, sometimes i feel like doing a cab off resto. other times i say i'm not gonna put anymore money into it lol. i go back and forth between the two, doesn't help i have two 520's now i want to bring home and work on.
    1 point
  34. Find another cab.??? Just drive it into the ground, save your money. Thats what Im going to do with mine. However its been 17yrs and its not in the ground yet. Its rusting but still cheap to maintain and run
    1 point
  35. i'm holding off on much body work until i can find another cab, but not ready for a full teardown yet. want to drive and enjoy the truck for now! i have my old set of wheels in case i want to go for the stock look again! trying to collect hub caps slowly. i plan to keep the patina as long as i can. also stocking craigslist for some nismo rays, maybe i'll get lucky lol!
    1 point
  36. You could buy my 79 620 project and get it shipped for half the cost of fixing your body. Yes,it's a shameless plug.
    1 point
  37. The choke and the other stuff is seperate... the auto choke just needs power when the truck is turned on.. I have a 72 521 and it was just an ignition source.... I think later on there was a relay added... The other switches you talked about I believe have something to do with the dual points in the distributor...
    1 point
  38. well the schematics say the LW goes to choke, which i can hook up on the weber. and the LY and L go throttle switch. now that i think about it, maybe they're referring to the switch in the firewall, i'll have to see where the wires go from there. i know the schematic shows the L wire from the throttle switch to the ACC switch, however not sure where the LY wire goes as I only took a small picture of the schematic for reference. never the less the L and LY wire on mine are not hooked up past the throttle switch in the firewall, if that is the throttle switch. no idea on the anti diesel solenoid
    1 point
  39. yes the interior panel on the passenger side is rusted all the way through!! needs some attention for sure. i cant find your post? i found one where you spoke of creating new cab mounts, any chance you could make all 4 for me? you'd be a life saver! you should produce them and sell them, i see no one else offering them at all.
    1 point
  40. I meant the interior panels of the rockers. Look up my thread and you will see how I fixed them. Though if you need to replace the rockers, I strongly suggestyou simply undo all the rockers at the spot welds and completely replace the interior panels as well. Under cab mounts are a future project
    1 point
  41. Which truck ? The regular cab? Is it possible one of the cables you purchased is for a king cable? I'm not really sure how your ebrake is set up.... I think the 521 is a little different... But a quick and dirty fix would be take up the extra slack under the truck and install a metal cable clamp....
    1 point
  42. brakes works great, however e brake barely works. i think this is due to the slack on the actual handle. i do not see anywhere to adjust it. the cable as you can see is not tight against the cage that connects to the handle. i have made adjustments underneath and it does not affect the cable length at all. all three hand brake cables are new. am i missing something? have looked on google, factory service manual, and haynes manual. only adjustment i see is under the vehicle. the handle can be pulled about 4 inches before it makes contact with the end of the cable. also just updated my dead
    1 point
  43. got the alignment, ordered my steering components and king pin rebuild set. going with some kyb shocks, i've read xterra shocks are shorter and bolt in. is this true? i figure if they don't work, i'll put them on my xterra LOL.
    1 point
  44. I use an HVAC vacuum pump with a brake bleeding container inline. You can reduce the suction pressure (unlike pressure bleeders) so you don't aerate the fluid. Works well, and its just leftover tools from a previous profession. Other than being cumbersome, its handy!
    1 point
  45. I use a pressure bleeder when I need to, but I'll warn you that they aren't fool proof. I use them to get the system full of fluid and to get most of the air out, but nothing beats the old pump-hold-bleed method. Once the system has been pressure bled, I go around and bleed again manually. The fool proof pressure bleeder costs thousands of dollars.
    1 point
  46. Always a good feeling when you get to drive them again. :D
    1 point
  47. Lot to be said for limo tint on the rear glass.
    1 point
  48. First start up on fuel in 20 years, its turn key now. I have a new(to me, had it boiled) fuel tank and all new fuel line and new fuel pump New brake booster along with shoes, adjusters and a couple metal lines and everything else in between. found some eagle alloys 16x8 i found in a junkyard off a frontier. lowered the rear with 4 inch blocks, waiting to lower the front once i do a few test drives. got my custom license plate coming. got my weber 32/36 installed. Fixed my clutch issue, it was an adjustment on the master cylinder combined with a poor quality slave. first test drive s
    1 point
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