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Showing content with the highest reputation on 04/15/2019 in all areas

  1. 4 points
  2. 3 points
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  4. 2 points
    I wanted to see if I could do it, it didn't go as planned at first, but with a couple adjustments I succeeded. First off I have a J15 engine, I am assuming this one is the same as the J13 and E1 as the motor mounts are the same and the plate is the same as my 1966 Datsun 520 plate. At first I was going to use the 1981 Datsun 210/310 5 speed, but it would not fit over the flywheel, so I settled for the 71B, Nissans 720 5 speed, I used a long shaft 5spd for mock up but the plan would be to use the short shaft 5spd in the 85/86 Nissan 720 regular cab/short box. Now understand I did this without even using a tape measure, I had the 71B front case, an L block plate, and a J13/J15 adapter plate, the holes in the center of the plates were the same size, but the hole saw I used was slightly larger, but it still was a matter of spinning/clocking the plates to put all the holes where they needed to be, I actually had to weld up the starter mount holes and re-clock it once as the starter was hitting the distributor, I am using the stock J series starter, flywheel, clutch disc/cover, and throw out bearing assembly on a 720 clutch arm, it appears to be good but I have the engine on an adjustable engine stand I made. Here is the transmission side of the plate made with the 3 special bolts needed. Here is the engine side A closer look at the bolts, they are around flush when inserted into the plate, two for the mounting of the starter and one for the top of the transmission. Here is the counter sunk hole for the transmission mount. And the starter counter sunk holes. Here is the plate installed without a flywheel. Here is the plate installed with the flywheel/disc/cover, and you can see the transmission mount bolt sticking out. It is tight in back of the flywheel. Here is the starter installed, you can see the special bolts I made to hold the starter on, the transmission case rests on these bolts, so they had to be flush as I didn't want to modify the transmission case, this is made to not have to modify anything else, just mount the plate and install the transmission. Now I made this plate with the special bolts removable, I need this plate as a template to make more plates if needed. The starter and distributor are very close to each other, this was my second try. Here is the 4 speed J series throw out bearing/collar on the 720 clutch arm in the 71B 5 speed transmission. I cleaned up the edges of the plate today, the exhaust is tight. I can get the head pipe flange on the studs, but I still need to cut and bend the head pipe, that is not done yet. The head pipe just hits the adapter plate a little, it will be easy to deal with. And here is the long shaft 5spd transmission mounted on the engine in my engine stand. I have started and ran this engine on the stand today, the starter sounds normal and the engine doesn't make any weird sounds while running, I believe I succeeded in making this adapter plate, the short shaft 5spd should fit fine in the 520/521 with the J series engine with the normal transmission mount mods. I have no idea if the short shaft 5spd will fit into the 320 without cutting sheet metal, but I believe this plate will work on an E1 engine if the J series starter is used, I don't know if the 320 flywheel is the same though, the J series flywheel may also be needed, the shift lever on the short shaft is in the same place as the 4 speed shift lever, but the 4spd is an inch longer than the 5spd.
  5. 2 points
    They are going to charge for craiglist ads now? lol Time to go to offerup.com
  6. 2 points
    Who knows how many Datsun ads we will see from now on since tomorrow craigslist is gonna start charging $5 per ad.
  7. 2 points
    Took a nice 20 minute drive today running some errands... got the air/fuel sticking close to 13-13.5 right now.... Couple small adjustment can still be made.... wot on the highway gets a bit rich.... I have 1 bigger air corrector I'm gonna put In tomorrow.....
  8. 2 points
    I have been working little by little with doing the wiring on the truck. Bought some new taillights and turn signals, trying to figure out some wiring. Swapped the alternator with a subaru loyale alternator, it was nice being a direct swap. Got the e30 lights in on both the headlight buckets. Today cleaned out the hvac, the heater core was was completely filled full of crap. got new hoses for it and grommets for the firewall that fit. Made some connectors for the cab to engine wiring harness. still a ways to go with the harness running and connecting. Got some speed hut gauges in looking good. I took some time to try and put a big band aid over my dash, it has a lot of filler and so many cracks, i looked up some how to's and got a bunch of polyvance stuff to fill in the cracks and some dash filler. Painted it but done have done pictures of it yet. Is it better than was it was? yes, it is perfect? hell no. some pics... <a href="http://s817.photobucket.com/user/chonypros/media/IMG_20190325_142129_zpszipshzqv.jpg.html" target="_blank"><img src="https://oi817.photobucket.com/albums/zz91/chonypros/IMG_20190325_142129_zpszipshzqv.jpg" border="0" alt=" photo IMG_20190325_142129_zpszipshzqv.jpg"/></a>
  9. 2 points
    Couldn't pass up on these set of sawblades for $75, so I went on a road trip today and picked them up. These will get stripped and see paint + polish before getting put on the truck.
  10. 2 points
    It is happening. I may be different in the respect that most people will promote something to death and I find that shit to be terribly annoying. The turn out will determine if there will be a following year. Looking forward to seeing everyone in June!
  11. 2 points
    I hear you man,,, i get 2 sausage fest campouts a year ,,, Canby and the All Japanese classic are them .. If something else was adding i would have to pass on one or the other... Now if some of Wetside clowns could convince the Boise-land freaks to host a campout it would be a tough choice which one to drop for sure.
  12. 2 points
    ^^^ Update. Picked up the car about a month back. Have got the engine out of the car. Have cleaned out the inside (read swept, not scrubbed). Got the tie rods figured out. Need to figure out tension rod yet and some other bits. But so far, looking like it will line up and come together. Some people have generously donated parts to help get it on the road.
  13. 2 points
    Played with the truck some.... decided to change the fuel filter, it was looking a little ugly, but It definitely did its job collecting crap from the tank.... After that I went for a ride .. I was able to get my 10 mile drive done..... In 10 miles my odometer said I traveled 12.9 miles, verified by mile markers and GPS, so I'm gonna get the ratio adapter sent out next week for recalibration..... I have also been changing some jets around in the carburator.... I think I'm getting closer, but I'm still a little rich ... so after the drive I made another change.. I went down one size on the main jets and i might go down one size on the idle jets too and see what that does... And then Another drive tomorrow.... Weather is getting much nicer up here, hoping to be daily driving the datsun more and more.... Oh and at 65 mph I was just above 3000 rpm which is better that being at almost 4000 rpm with the 4spd.... and the exhaust was perfect.... no drone sound and It was probably half as loud... again not oem quite but its not annoying loud like before.....
  14. 2 points
  15. 2 points
    testing out the new door pulls:
  16. 1 point
    Thanks! Wiring is a pain but as long as I get a couple of things done each weekend it'll go by fast. The alternator is 60 amp. There were plenty of options for more but I went with this because it has the same connector as stock and it's a direct swap, I didn't have to grind or modify anything. The core was really gross, and when I changed hoses those were not great either so I'd like to do a full flush whenever I get more together.
  17. 1 point
    Can I ask will these gaskets fit my 64 V320 windows?
  18. 1 point
    First things first on the truck was to pop off the camper that the original owner had installed when the truck was new. Looks way better without it. Vintage Japanese cars and trucks have some of the best bodylines. Even these square bodied trucks haha
  19. 1 point
    do you have an article about that? The craigslist site just says this: All craigslist postings are free, except for: Job postings in selected areas—$10-75 (fee varies by area) Brokered apartment rentals in NYC area—$10 All by-dealer categories in the US—$3-5 Cars/trucks by-dealer in the US, Vancouver BC—$5 Furniture by-dealer in the US, Vancouver BC—$3 Cars/trucks by-owner in the US—$5 (starting April 15) Gigs in US and selected CA areas—$3-10 Services in US and CA—$5 Visa, MasterCard, and American Express are accepted. Paid posting accounts provide high-volume posters with additional payment options in some cases. Questions? Please email billing@craigslist.org.
  20. 1 point
    Salem, NH. The first one is usually huge (and it was) and then it tapers off as the year goes on. Good mix of old muscle and tuners today. Some rare stuff, including two TVR’s, an FJ40, a cool old Sami, and a Golf Country were there today.
  21. 1 point
    You making gauge holders for them?
  22. 1 point
    It's on the Powerland calendar,, http://www.antiquepowerland.com/html/calendar.html the interaction in this place has changed quite a bit with facebook and Instagram and such > Example,, i have to post Capt Testiicles event on facebook just to get locals attention that we are having a BBQ at Jdorks shop now . Kinda weird
  23. 1 point
    Where is the cars and coffee? Maybe I could make it there one sunday.... The sender I am using has it's own ground.... I had it set up a little differently before, but I broke the electrical connection.... it was good before..... might just be a cheap setup I bought.. . I have been wanting to upgrade it.... just haven't bothered yet. As long as my idiot light doesnt come on I dont worry to much.....
  24. 1 point
  25. 1 point
    I would like a little longer. The factory one hangs out or off in left front corner. Drives me crazy. But don’t have that problem no more.
  26. 1 point
    You have to have the 3 prong part the plug connects onto also, do you have that? You should also unplug the white connectors and test each wire connection at the white plug for power, if they all have power then I suppose it will work for now.
  27. 1 point
    Clutch arm pressure should push all the fluid back into the master reservoir when pedal is released. Maybe look at why pressure is trapped in the line. Check that there is a slight clutch pedal play or looseness by pushing down on it with your thumb. If no play here the piston in the master can't fully return and let the fluid into the reservoir. Each time you pump the clutch it increases like a hydraulic jack until the slave over extends and jams..
  28. 1 point
    Welcome! We'd like to see some pics of your baby!
  29. 1 point
    have the block done. I had both of mine done by a shop that does imports. I got 190K on my 521 motor that was redone. most like might need a rebore. finding L18 pistons are hard . 4cc dished 85mm cranks are most likely good. but ck the bearings. Personally I would just see if you get by just clean up the bores and new pistons. the side crank seals I would get the nissan ones and give to the engine builder. find Jap made timming kit. if possibel truck is still running buy a hopefull know running more and rebuild it on the side. But if not possible you know your motor is good and dont have overheat issues then most likely its good
  30. 1 point
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  33. 1 point
    Well, since Canby is no more, you're safe. 🤓
  34. 1 point
    Ah-ha! A friend found it: http://www.davidcmurphy.com/olddat/index.htm
  35. 1 point
  36. 1 point
    Welcome aboard! I'll be sidelining while you complete your repairs. Enjoy the ride.
  37. 1 point
    "The good news" - "It's not the fuel filter".
  38. 1 point
    Thanks guys for the input - I really do appreciate it. Unfortunately, my body, arms, and legs just don't bend like they used to, and although I can "see" almost the entire length of the blue w/white stripe wire that goes from the blower motor to the switch, I can't reach it without removing the entire factory air conditioning unit situated below the dash. :-( Bill
  39. 1 point
    I've pulled a bunch of these, have been lucky not to find a broken one yet. Typically the rivet that holds the wire eyelet breaks leaving the eyelet intact. I go to the hardware store and get a brass screw and nut to hold it together, and doesn't seem to corrode as fast.
  40. 1 point
    You'll need to find another switch or take apart and fix the old. Hi speed only means the voltage dropping coil is broken. It's plugged into the driver's side of the heater fan chamber above the gas peddle. Just pry out with screwdriver. You may be able to twist the ends together and get it to work but don't solder because it gets hot and why it's mounted in the air flow from the fan to keep it cool. Probably had one or more blue or blue with strip wires to it.
  41. 1 point
  42. 1 point
    Couldn't wait for the suspension upgrades to try out the wheels...
  43. 1 point
    Sure, but I am pretty sure they are a ton wider than the 620 axle. And then you're back in the position of parts being way more expensive than a Toyota axle. I do not actually know the width measurements of the Datsun axles. Maybe someone can list them here for you.
  44. 1 point
    It has no problem going 100mph. The problem is, it feels as if I need a 6th gear. As I’m cruising at highway speeds, let’s say 65-70 mph in 5th gear and I wot. It feels as if I have no more speed to catch after it hits 100 to 110 and engine close to redline. Catch my drift?
  45. 1 point
    So he lost the bolts?. I don't know the size.
  46. 1 point
    From which car model are those headlights ? Where did you find the shifter bushings ?
  47. 1 point
    I got to some things this weekend. I changed the shifter bushing (it was completely missing one) and it feels %1000 better. I replaced some vaccum hoses that were cracked thanks to datzenmike's catch on a previous post. Took the truck out of a little drive and it runs a lot smoother, In fact the idle now is a little higher from no more vaccum leaks. I finally got most of my electrical upgrades hoarded so i started to pull the engine and interior harness. I uncovered some more hacks and added things to my list to replace in the future. Pics.. some handy work... custom backing plate this looks real safe euro smiley ellipsoids
  48. 1 point
    I remember. Just messin. You've got it right.
  49. 1 point
    I have a friend of a friend who has an aftermarket intake manifold for a L16 with a Weber 38/38 carb. I want to say th intake manifold is a Canton? Or soemthing that sounds like that. Is this a super rare intake manifold? I plan to buy the setup reguardless as my ittle L16 needs mo powa!
  50. 1 point
    Unless you have a ported A87 head, cam with .510 lift and 410 duration and with all the valve train goodies to go with it, header and 4.375 rear gears a 38/38 is too big. Hell a 32/34 is too big for a stock L16 unless you step into it slowly. Bigger carb does not mean bigger power. If this were true we would all have 1080 cfm Holly double pumpers on our L motors. Spend the money on an EI dizzy or a new 32/34 Weber or better a 4.11 Subaru diff. If you buy, get it cheap so you can sell later and make a couple of bucks.
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