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Showing content with the highest reputation on 04/15/2019 in all areas

  1. 4 points
  2. 3 points
  3. 3 points
  4. 2 points
    I wanted to see if I could do it, it didn't go as planned at first, but with a couple adjustments I succeeded. First off I have a J15 engine, I am assuming this one is the same as the J13 and E1 as the motor mounts are the same and the plate is the same as my 1966 Datsun 520 plate. At first I was going to use the 1981 Datsun 210/310 5 speed, but it would not fit over the flywheel, so I settled for the 71B, Nissans 720 5 speed, I used a long shaft 5spd for mock up but the plan would be to use the short shaft 5spd in the 85/86 Nissan 720 regular cab/short box. Now understand I did this without even using a tape measure, I had the 71B front case, an L block plate, and a J13/J15 adapter plate, the holes in the center of the plates were the same size, but the hole saw I used was slightly larger, but it still was a matter of spinning/clocking the plates to put all the holes where they needed to be, I actually had to weld up the starter mount holes and re-clock it once as the starter was hitting the distributor, I am using the stock J series starter, flywheel, clutch disc/cover, and throw out bearing assembly on a 720 clutch arm, it appears to be good but I have the engine on an adjustable engine stand I made. Here is the transmission side of the plate made with the 3 special bolts needed. Here is the engine side A closer look at the bolts, they are around flush when inserted into the plate, two for the mounting of the starter and one for the top of the transmission. Here is the counter sunk hole for the transmission mount. And the starter counter sunk holes. Here is the plate installed without a flywheel. Here is the plate installed with the flywheel/disc/cover, and you can see the transmission mount bolt sticking out. It is tight in back of the flywheel. Here is the starter installed, you can see the special bolts I made to hold the starter on, the transmission case rests on these bolts, so they had to be flush as I didn't want to modify the transmission case, this is made to not have to modify anything else, just mount the plate and install the transmission. Now I made this plate with the special bolts removable, I need this plate as a template to make more plates if needed. The starter and distributor are very close to each other, this was my second try. Here is the 4 speed J series throw out bearing/collar on the 720 clutch arm in the 71B 5 speed transmission. I cleaned up the edges of the plate today, the exhaust is tight. I can get the head pipe flange on the studs, but I still need to cut and bend the head pipe, that is not done yet. The head pipe just hits the adapter plate a little, it will be easy to deal with. And here is the long shaft 5spd transmission mounted on the engine in my engine stand. I have started and ran this engine on the stand today, the starter sounds normal and the engine doesn't make any weird sounds while running, I believe I succeeded in making this adapter plate, the short shaft 5spd should fit fine in the 520/521 with the J series engine with the normal transmission mount mods. I have no idea if the short shaft 5spd will fit into the 320 without cutting sheet metal, but I believe this plate will work on an E1 engine if the J series starter is used, I don't know if the 320 flywheel is the same though, the J series flywheel may also be needed, the shift lever on the short shaft is in the same place as the 4 speed shift lever, but the 4spd is an inch longer than the 5spd.
  5. 2 points
    They are going to charge for craiglist ads now? lol Time to go to offerup.com
  6. 2 points
    Who knows how many Datsun ads we will see from now on since tomorrow craigslist is gonna start charging $5 per ad.
  7. 2 points
    Took a nice 20 minute drive today running some errands... got the air/fuel sticking close to 13-13.5 right now.... Couple small adjustment can still be made.... wot on the highway gets a bit rich.... I have 1 bigger air corrector I'm gonna put In tomorrow.....
  8. 2 points
    I have been working little by little with doing the wiring on the truck. Bought some new taillights and turn signals, trying to figure out some wiring. Swapped the alternator with a subaru loyale alternator, it was nice being a direct swap. Got the e30 lights in on both the headlight buckets. Today cleaned out the hvac, the heater core was was completely filled full of crap. got new hoses for it and grommets for the firewall that fit. Made some connectors for the cab to engine wiring harness. still a ways to go with the harness running and connecting. Got some speed hut gauges in looking good. I took some time to try and put a big band aid over my dash, it has a lot of filler and so many cracks, i looked up some how to's and got a bunch of polyvance stuff to fill in the cracks and some dash filler. Painted it but done have done pictures of it yet. Is it better than was it was? yes, it is perfect? hell no. some pics... <a href="http://s817.photobucket.com/user/chonypros/media/IMG_20190325_142129_zpszipshzqv.jpg.html" target="_blank"><img src="https://oi817.photobucket.com/albums/zz91/chonypros/IMG_20190325_142129_zpszipshzqv.jpg" border="0" alt=" photo IMG_20190325_142129_zpszipshzqv.jpg"/></a>
  9. 2 points
    Couldn't pass up on these set of sawblades for $75, so I went on a road trip today and picked them up. These will get stripped and see paint + polish before getting put on the truck.
  10. 2 points
    It is happening. I may be different in the respect that most people will promote something to death and I find that shit to be terribly annoying. The turn out will determine if there will be a following year. Looking forward to seeing everyone in June!
  11. 2 points
    I hear you man,,, i get 2 sausage fest campouts a year ,,, Canby and the All Japanese classic are them .. If something else was adding i would have to pass on one or the other... Now if some of Wetside clowns could convince the Boise-land freaks to host a campout it would be a tough choice which one to drop for sure.
  12. 2 points
    ^^^ Update. Picked up the car about a month back. Have got the engine out of the car. Have cleaned out the inside (read swept, not scrubbed). Got the tie rods figured out. Need to figure out tension rod yet and some other bits. But so far, looking like it will line up and come together. Some people have generously donated parts to help get it on the road.
  13. 2 points
    Played with the truck some.... decided to change the fuel filter, it was looking a little ugly, but It definitely did its job collecting crap from the tank.... After that I went for a ride .. I was able to get my 10 mile drive done..... In 10 miles my odometer said I traveled 12.9 miles, verified by mile markers and GPS, so I'm gonna get the ratio adapter sent out next week for recalibration..... I have also been changing some jets around in the carburator.... I think I'm getting closer, but I'm still a little rich ... so after the drive I made another change.. I went down one size on the main jets and i might go down one size on the idle jets too and see what that does... And then Another drive tomorrow.... Weather is getting much nicer up here, hoping to be daily driving the datsun more and more.... Oh and at 65 mph I was just above 3000 rpm which is better that being at almost 4000 rpm with the 4spd.... and the exhaust was perfect.... no drone sound and It was probably half as loud... again not oem quite but its not annoying loud like before.....
  14. 2 points
  15. 2 points
    testing out the new door pulls:
  16. 1 point
    Hey guys, does a "cannon manifold 821" fit an L20B head? Scoured the net but came up empty.
  17. 1 point
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  19. 1 point
    1969 Datsun 510 2dr $5,000 https://seattle.craigslist.org/tac/cto/d/auburn-1969-datsun-510-2dr/6867058944.html
  20. 1 point
  21. 1 point
    Bled the brakes on the Goon now I have way more pedal.
  22. 1 point
    Replaced diff and still noisy? How do the axle bearings look?
  23. 1 point
    https://i.imgur.com/90ZAPqk.jpg https://i.imgur.com/yQQVts8.jpg https://i.imgur.com/KI36Gki.jpg https://i.imgur.com/lCDEuad.jpg https://i.imgur.com/cwYKre4.jpg https://i.imgur.com/txFZLcL.jpg https://i.imgur.com/VvJm3yV.jpg
  24. 1 point
  25. 1 point
    It's funny you say tvr.... guy I work with drives one .... Well the next one is on mothers day.... so I wont be going that day.... Maybe the June one on fathers days....
  26. 1 point
  27. 1 point
    No, just used the $20 Autometer one. It’s all die cut and bent out of aluminum sheet metal.
  28. 1 point
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  31. 1 point
    Ooo I’m doing coil overs my ride is to bumpy
  32. 1 point
    My son and I have rebuilt the mechanicals on a 1976 620 long bed and installed Beebani’s disk brake conversion. The truck drove great for a couple of hundred miles until the clutch started to drag. When the clutch was depressed a rubbing noise was heard which has diminished but has not disappeared. The throw out bearing lever was loose when the clutch was not depressed. The clutch release point was at the end of the clutch pedal travel then it moved to the start of the pedal travel. The slave cylinder is putting pressure on the throw out bearing lever. When in gear power is applied the clutch slips. The clutch, pressure plate, throw out bearing and clutch master cylinder are new. What could be causing my problem? I’m assuming the transmission will need to be pulled and I am not really looking forward to pulling it.
  33. 1 point
  34. 1 point
    How loose was the clutch lever when not depressed? If it had more than just a little play then you should make a longer rod, it should only have a 1/16th inch play after you force the rod into the bottom of the slave with your hand.
  35. 1 point
    Thanks mainer311, I was poking around e-bay last night and see the part you are describing. No need to send picture of the added 45 deg angle piece, I can picture what your talking about. Thanks
  36. 1 point
    I have owned a lot of Datsun wagons and have dealt with this issue a lot. 😄 1. Your hatch seal leaks. Due to the low pressure area behind the car, it pulls exhaust fumes in through those leaks. 2. Rolling the windows down seems to only makes it worse, not better. 3. Keeping the fresh air vents open all the time helps, (pressurizes the cabin) but you just sealed those up. 😁 4. While your new exhaust may help this issue a lot (gets the tip further away from the hatch), I found a side exit works even better. Best fix is a new hatch seal, a new window seal, and maybe plug up those vents beside the hatch. without the front flow through vents open, the rear "flow out" vents will actually suck fumes back into the car. In for a penny, in for a pound. While I do understand the reasoning behind sealing up the fresh air vents in the cowl, it is in practice a terrible idea. 😉
  37. 1 point
  38. 1 point
    So my high school friend owned this Patrol (87) and he painted it on the side so I went with it. You're stupid if you can't figure out it's a 66!
  39. 1 point
    I was surprised when I found this photo from JCCS 2006. Same CA license plate (SSS BIRD) as Ray Yates' Coupe that I posted earlier. I wonder what the story is there?
  40. 1 point
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  42. 1 point
    Fair points. They were only $26 for the pair shipped so I will see how they look and operate.
  43. 1 point
    Who's house Jaybirds House Canby or bust yur ass
  44. 1 point
    top are short. bottom ones are longer , have a shank
  45. 1 point
    M10 x 1.5 not sure on the length.
  46. 1 point
    He's not alone... this has been reported here a couple of times before.
  47. 1 point
    hit the bleed screw and see if the clutch fork moves fwd giving you more movement. Bleed the system.might help I assume you gave a stock clutch made for that vehicle. I assume you put it on the disc on the correct way
  48. 1 point
    the headlights are for a bmw e30. these are depo headlights not original, i use to own an e30 for my first car, messed around with the lights/projectors. I found these on ebay. they sell them in non-smoked too. shifter bushing was a set on ebay too. link
  49. 1 point
    The PCV valve uses a small amount of intake vacuum to suck crank case fumes (warm fuel and water vapor and combustion blow-by gasses getting past the rings) and runs them through the combustion chamber to burn them up. The air removed from the crank case is made up by filtered air from the breather on the carb and is drawn in through that hose on the valve cover. At idle and low speeds this is how it works. At higher speeds the engine vacuum is lower and the motor may produce more blow-by than can be drawn into the intake by the PCV valve. In this case the air reverses direction and flows out the valve cover hose and into the air filter housing where it is sucked into the carb. The PCV valve is essential for removing water and gas vapors from the crank case where they would normally condense when the motor cooled. The PCV valve increases the time and mileage between oil changes by keeping the oil cleaner and free of contaminants and dirt for a cleaner motor. I would find out if that intake has a PCV valve on it or is the hose just hanging off the side of the block.
  50. 1 point
    cannon.... i dont think too rare..but possibly sought after.
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