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Showing content with the highest reputation on 04/02/2019 in all areas

  1. 4 points
  2. 4 points
    Putting my truck in a museum . Just waiting for the trailer. As usual.
  3. 4 points
    SUPER BIG SHOUT OUT TO BEN_UPDE He provided me with the hubs that I was needing to my brake swap.. For free by the way THANK YOU
  4. 3 points
    Your recycling centers don't take plastic ? what's wrong with you people over there ?
  5. 3 points
  6. 2 points
  7. 2 points
  8. 2 points
    I should imaging Nissan has assembly lube on all moving parts and they just start them up and go. Shrug. I worked for GM in the mid 70s and did spend a day working at the end of the truck line where they are started and driven to the parking lot. The probably primed the carbs but it took about 5? seconds to get them going.
  9. 2 points
    The straw ban has to be one of the stupidest things anybody has come up with.
  10. 2 points
    Yup! I got my brother Michael into Datsuns now😈
  11. 2 points
    make sure to prime oil pump before START. or pump oil to the oil pump using a hose. I prime my carburetor so gas squirts in and then just START it. . the oil pressure should be there in 15seconds.. I pour oil on the cam and rocker arms right before start also
  12. 2 points
    Its actually a real listing at oriellys... Obviously not for sale....
  13. 2 points
  14. 2 points
    Shouldn't matter, just lets in the oil.
  15. 2 points
    The main bearing caps all have arrows, point them towards the front. When you are ready to torque the center thrust main bearing cap shove the crank forward as far as it will go then tighten the bolts. Torque from the center outwards in at least two stages. Do all in the following order to 20 ft pounds. Then a final finish torque to 35-40 ft pounds. RAD 7....8 3....4 1....2 thrust bearing 5....6 9..10 Flywheel The rear cap also has side seals that must be installed correctly Make sure you lube the rear oils seal before installing so it does not start up dry.
  16. 2 points
    Join the Black/White stripe wires together. This is the transmission interlock and are only connected in PARK and NEUTRAL so you cannot start in gear. If you don't join these two the starter won't engage during START. The Red/Black stripe wires are for the reverse lights. Connect these two to the mates on the 5 speed reverse switch. (polarity not important)The reverse switch is closest to the front of the transmission directly behind the clutch arm dust boot and approximately half way up the right hand side about where the passenger's knees are.
  17. 2 points
  18. 2 points
    Picked these up over the weekend. I'm guessing they will go in this car.
  19. 2 points
    Hello Ratsuners, It has been a long time since my last post. I wanted to inform the ratsun 620 community that my car is allowed to be driven in France. It's not a perfect score but enough to drive safely for myself and other drivers! I'm now in the process of having French plates but I can drive it daily without worrying about cops. And believe me, there's work to do with it, as you can see on the following pictures : Thank you again for your help! Everything is not achieved to make it perfect but the most important part is done, for sure ! Oukippy PS: tried to turn the second picture but I don't know how to do it.
  20. 2 points
    The hubs I have came off an early D21. I believe an ‘83,’84. They were the exact same as the ‘79 hubs already on my truck. They are small enough they could go in a flat rate box too
  21. 1 point
    Nice mole,err i mean boobs.She should fix that.
  22. 1 point
    People dont pay attention any more.... That's my biggest fear driving my datsun.... Hope you get better quick.....
  23. 1 point
    WTF, hope it's not serious. Get better soon!
  24. 1 point
  25. 1 point
    Of course. The kick down. Just tape it up out of the way. There will also be a small vacuum line from the intake down to the modulator valve. Probably cnnects at or near the vacuum hose for the brake booster. Make sure it's sealed up.
  26. 1 point
    Well this hasn't worked out the way I planned..... I was trying to place the resonator as the exhaust crossed from driver to passenger side... Well it was too long..... luckily I was able to turn the 90 bend into 2 45s..... This allowed me to install the resonator at an angle and have enough room.... Then I made connections from the header, and got that routed to the torsion bar crossmember with a 45 and a straight piece of pipe... at the end Is the clamp and a small turn up towards the resonator.... now i have about a 6 inch gap left and I ran out of time..... I have a couple pieces cut that should close the gap.... just need to tack in place and mock up will be done.... I'll get some pics when I remove it to final weld what I need to.....
  27. 1 point
    No the black and Y/R wire lay on the driver side of the trans. Looks to be for the kick down solenoid according to this wiring diagram?
  28. 1 point
    Thanks for the advices, Mike! Two questions in one picture, guys... - Is this manual ok? - Could be a problem that the new bearing haves the little hole slightly bigger than the original's bearing one? Thanks and have a nice week! Ps: actually is almost double the size of the hole 🤔🤔🤔
  29. 1 point
    forgot to mention tha in this post on nicoclub (the website is currently down) https://forums.nicoclub.com/running-on-a-budget-63-pl-320-t586738-60.html it looks as though the threads are different to the ones i have pictured above?
  30. 1 point
    not quite bacon but I'm snacking on it at the moment and it ain't bad.
  31. 1 point
    That bacon looks perfectly cooked.Now i'm hungry.
  32. 1 point
    Some supplementary experience for added info in further/future cross referencing: I have successfully used a Beck/Arnley 071-2356, which was just a rebranded Seiken "Major" kit of the same part number, in the moderately recent past. After looking for the rebuild kit again, I'm finding the the Beck/A kit is nearing impossible to find, BUT it does net you a little more love when parts interchanging. This is just extras/last ditch, what Mike said especially regarding the seals really being the only thing you need is echoed in my experience. I thought I had a full scale Brazilian blowout on my hands when I did this. Turns out it was a just a small flat spot on the secondary cup. Also for research purposes, there is a certain 311s organization website that has a little bit of all this info wrapped up in a single page. Do some '411' searches here: http://www.311s.org/pmwiki-311/pmwiki.php?n=TechSection.311sPartsInterchange
  33. 1 point
  34. 1 point
  35. 1 point
  36. 1 point
    I play some. Great idea to get an inexpensive quality ride. :) I have a Fender Squire Strat that I beat on. You should check out Fisch's Hello Kitty guitar build on Instagram, it is a hot rod lol
  37. 1 point
    Seriously your honour, does this look like the ass in that picture???
  38. 1 point
    You said it over heats at idle so it isn't the issue when driving. Let it idle till either the fan comes on or it boils over. Follow the wires from the relay. Two should go to some kind of sender mounted in the rad tank or in line in the rad hose, usually the bottom one. The sender turns the relay on and the relay powers the fan. Make sure the fan turns in the proper direction, as in, if in front, it blows air through the rad. I guess you didn't build this set up? Thus everything about it is suspect. Check the in-line fuse.
  39. 1 point
    Alright so here is the verdict. I changed the thermostat and flushed the cooling system and the issue still arises. Now I'm looking at the fan. It seems to run but I haven't been able to get out and look at it while driving, I'm gonna do some test at home. But the fan is hooked directly to the battery. Power side as follows battery terminal, in line fuse, relay, fan. I'm not sure what the relay is connected to just yet but I will follow up. no the hoses are not looped together
  40. 1 point
    Ready for some spring road farming and cone dodging. It’s been a long winter.
  41. 1 point
  42. 1 point
    Brown console is missing the boot, otherwise in decent shape
  43. 1 point
    Well I got my clutch adjusted, and got lucky.... while I did dump a lot of fluid out, It didnt suck any air into the master.... there was maybe a couple mm of fluid still in it.... Next I buttoned up the shifter.... My not so stock shifter setup... 620 shifter with a pistol grip and an automatic 93 pathfinder shifter boot.... And then I pulled this out...... From the header to just behind the cab where the muffler is.... Now I have an adapter in place at the muffler to reduce it to 2" and one fitted to the header to reduce that to 2".... next I'll get the resonator where I want it and start making the connections....
  44. 1 point
    Ever seen the ultra-rare Jackie Chan special edition version?
  45. 1 point
    they still looked like Jackie Chan cars when i graduated
  46. 1 point
    My '63 320NL had a body colored dash, but my '65 320L had a black crinkle coated dash. I like them both.
  47. 1 point
    That looks great! I wasn't sure about the crinkle paint on the dash when you first mentioned it, but it looks awesome installed. Very nice. By the way, I love that Japan Automobile Federation badge - super cool.
  48. 1 point
    Neat show, and a very cool town to have it in. Package deal! "JDM" category for non roadster folks as I recall. I went a few years back.
  49. 1 point
    When I go to wake up an old fill plug that has been asleep for 20+ years, I use a 12" cressent, on the square head fill plug, with a couple feet of pipe on the handle to get more leverage, and heat. Using caution, take a propane torch to heat the aluminum around the fill plug, and have the big cressent & cheater pipe close by. When the aluminum starts to smoke, strong arm the fill plug, and it should come loose. Just make sure the cressent is tight on the fill plug head. When you put it back on, don't tighten it like it has 3000 psi hydraulic pressure behind it. Use RTV on the threads, and just snug it up. It won't leak, and it will not fall out. Most of these stuck plugs are cause by over tightening a dry plug into the case.
  50. 1 point
    Those holes are for the factory SSS badges found on the 1970 models. This was mostly a trim upgrade, but I see you have the factory tach and map light (almost always found on those models), so that would support that as well. The badge is the rectangular SSS emblem that was also shared on the 411 SSS models (on the grille and tail light panel). This is the emblem that would be located there: Michael
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