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Showing content with the highest reputation on 02/09/2019 in all areas

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    Although I unde Although my statement was a massive simplification, the short answer is yes. At some point the clitoris is no longer considered a vestigial penis and becomes a dick. Maybe not a full fledged spunk shooter, but an intersex male organ call the penis, tally whacker, Jonson, shlong, or trowser snake. And no, I don't have the official length where that happens, but I'm pretty sure 6" is well within the dick zone.
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    Thanks trying to work out the details now. Wish me luck. Its a 1800SSS in really nice condition coming from Japan. Barn find.
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    I'm glad I'm not an expert, or purported expert, like Mike, in all fields...
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    But sry-iously there is less than a vas deferens in the development of the male and female urogenital system and structures and their origins. Paradime is quite correct in his description.
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    Yeah, that's way better. Nissan changed the grill to make it more break resistant but fucked the looks up. Changing to an older grill was one of the first things I did on my '78.
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    Go to the how to swap a ka into the 720 in the how to forum. If you have questions after that come back.
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    Urologists agree, Mike's litmus test is slanted to favor old school Canadians with a fetish for catnip and Asian women.
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    Two objects cannot occupy the same space at the same time, its physics.
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    If they pay the minimum ($60) amount each month,they'll probably be dead before it's paid off. What speed (s) is tha in "American" (mph)?
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    Anyone have experience replacing the stock headlights in your 720 for LEDs? I'd prefer to significantly increase the stock range of lumens, achieve an even distribution of headlight beam, and not go too blue or green in hue.
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    I always had Mike pegged as the resident tranny expert....
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    I've got an MG guy looking for a match as well. If he can find an MG match it'll be a lot cheaper than a Datsun one.
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    Ight I'll look into that as well, thanks again
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    so I know in the past I asked about a de swap, but instead for now I just want another reliable engine for the future. I just wanted to know how simple it is to swap a Napz to a ka24e engine out of a d21 hardbody. and how easy would it be to swap it into my automatic transmission? Thanks, Cameron P.
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    The KA will fit, you can use the Z series radiator, Steve's engine mounts, the transmission isn't a problem. The rest might be oil pan fit, grafting the exhaust down pipe to the 720s pipe and wiring it up. The D21 EFI wiring is integral with the engine harness and a lot of trouble to separate. The 240sx's EFI is nicer looking and the wiring is separate and easier to remove and work with than the D21. Just sayin' that if a 240sx EFI and harness were available....
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    Thanks ? that helps a lot
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    The KA and the Z series as so close to the same mounting position as to be virtually the same. See ]2eDeYe for his engine mounts. A KA transmission will bolt to a Z series so it's not a stretch that a Z24 automatic and flex plate will bolt to a KA. You will need a vacuum supply from the KA's intake for the Z automatic but other than that that's it for the transmission..
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    Were also at about 4700 ft so the high desert we dont really see over 100. Maybe for two weeks
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    Lol I replaced the dash 10 yrs ago found some NOS on line for like 450 bucks but mostly garage kept..
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    We got lucky late last year because they salted, but then we got a lot of rain in December so it extended the “season” a little bit. I usually start getting the itch around April and flog the roadster around the block a couple times. In Maine we call late March/early April “mud season.” It comes after winter and before spring.
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    Thanks Charlie69 for the link to vintage connections, like that option better than the squeeze on connections we went with from the new bulb socket tails to new wiring in harness.
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    The engine plate on a standard is one piece and covers the entire front of the flywheel. Automatic can have the bottom half removable OR there is a rubber plug covering an access hole to get at the back of the flex plate to unbolt the torque converter.
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    I could go for a Bluebird. Not really interested in owning another 510, but a coupe' would be great. I bid on a rusted out Skyline last year, but it was a long shot. If I do own another Datsun, it's gotta be unique. Good luck on the coupe'.
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    Good ones are too expensive. Cheap ones just throw light everywhere. The stock bulbs have a single source of light from a tiny filament that is properly reflected and aimed with some sort of cut off to not blind oncoming traffic. Bad LEDs, which is most of them, just pour light out front. The only true way to overcome this is with good LEDs in a projector style housing. I think there are 5 3/4" projector LEDs for motorcycles.
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    Bonus points if you know who it is
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    Well the exhaust manifold is from a '75-'77 L20B but the intake is from much earlier and most likely from an L16. Has no EGR so before '74. NOT an L20B block with that sealed heater hose outlet, that's a Z20 or Z22. Not a Z24 by the looks of the timing cover bolts. It'll be hard to see but just below the two twined exhaust pipes in the middle of the block, top edge is a flat cast boss with the engine size stamped into it. See below the two square exhaust ports? Told you it wouldn't be easy. The head ID? Look along the bottom edge where it meets the block between/below #2 and #1 spark plugs. MADE IN JAPAN (followed by 210 if L16, A87 is L18 or early L20B, U67 if '75-'77 L20B and W58 if '78-'80 L20B) A Z20 engine has an 86mm bore so going to 89mm is a stretch but do-able. The thing is the Z20 uses a long 152.5mm rod and there are not many 89mm wide pistons that have a 31.75mm pin height so the piston does not hit the head. VG30 pistons (87mm) would fit perfectly. Maybe they were '87mm.
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    He'll be back in jail being someone's bitch in no time with that attitude!
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    I would just pull the harness from the truck you get the doors from. Then you know the wiring is correct and you can do it yourself.
  48. 1 point
    All plug wires match the dist cap label on both the ignition and exhaust sides. Timing was at 2 BTDC, so I adjusted it to somewhere in the woods of 3 to 3.75 BTDC. Based on my cleaning efforts for the timing gauge and the dist cap adjustment bolts it has not been changed in years (means that the shop that had my truck for 1.5 mo.s didn't check/adjust it either, which seems odd given the concept that the customer is paying you for a diagnostic and fix, thankfully they didn't charge me in the end, though it makes me question the extent of actual work they put into fixing it). Compression test up next when I can get a buddy to help.
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    I understand the old school look, but I really liked the handling with the larger wheels, and tires on mine. The dog leg 5 speed was great too! Unfortunately like Duncan I'm too old for major car projects now, so this is my toy now. ?
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    Thanks Keeper, you too! Wheels are 15x10 et-13. The backspacing is right around 5". I have wanted to get 15x10's for a while but they are a very tight fit so every dimension is critical. One of the coolest things about these Superlites other than the look is that they will custom machine the offset, center bore, and bolt pattern. They will even put in seats for whatever type of lugnut you want to run. One of the biggest obstacles is the inside profile of the hub pad and spoke shape. With more negative offset you get more room for brakes but at et-13 I was having issues. Pictured above, my 26mm Z32 caliper on the stock Z32 11" rotor was fouling the wheel on the underside of the caliper, it was rubbing the base of the spokes. I could get them on but it took a 1/2" spacer and pushed the wheels too far out of the fender. I really needed these to fit without any spacers if I wanted them to be my track wheels with 245/40 tires. Another thing I always consider is how excessive negative offset can wreck steering feel. So I started looking at new brakes! I found a few possible configurations. I knew I could clear Q45 2 piston calipers on a re-drilled Q45 rotor, but considering a brake downgrade with bigger, stickier tires was not that appealing. I found a few suppliers of a kit that used 30mm Z32 calipers on a 12.75" 350Z rotor, but just looking at the pictures I concluded it would not fit inside a 15" wheel. I kept looking through the webs and started checking out all the various Arizona Z Car kits. They have a 240sx baby big brake kit that uses 4 piston Wilwoods and a 12.2" rotor. Hmm... Lucky for me one of my very best friends had that exact kit literally collecting dust in his dad's garage. 2 days later: I threw a wheel on and was bummed that there was an ever so slight rub. I initially thought the caliper was fouling the barrel and they wouldn't fit. My old Rotas fit fine. After some mucking around I realized that the wheel center cap was causing the wheel to not seat properly on the hub, I popped off the cap and BOOM!!! Perfection! The clearance between the caliper and the barrel is extremely tight, like maybe 1 or 2mm: They do fit and no spacers means ??.? In other news the car is running and I have driven around the block!
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