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Showing content with the highest reputation on 01/14/2019 in all areas

  1. 4 points
    Untitled by raymond medeiros, on Flickr Untitled by raymond medeiros, on Flickr Untitled by raymond medeiros, on Flickr Not a slam dunk that's for sure. But driver side is mounted. Will finish passenger side later. Get truck back on ground and I am sure I need to roll the fenders.I fuckin love though, looks way better in person. Cant wait for a full shot on the ground, stay tuned.
  2. 3 points
    Also, are there fire pits for campfires?
  3. 3 points
  4. 3 points
    Fresh restoration down in New Zealand took flight for the first time. This one will be going to an American Collector who commissioned the restoration.
  5. 3 points
  6. 2 points
    Yeah, mud is easier to get off.
  7. 2 points
    As long as the collar matches the clutch cover and slave cylinder matches the release arm.
  8. 2 points
    Flaps for mud? Or for smoky bits of tire rubber?
  9. 2 points
    does anyone know if dogs are allowed if your camping or if you are there for the day
  10. 2 points
    I can see mud flaps in the near future! LOL
  11. 2 points
    You can copy paste the image directly into your post. Cute kid. Love the stripe package.
  12. 2 points
  13. 2 points
    The Red headed Hottie and i are driving something Datsun up. May throw some parts in the trunk, but last year at Canby selling was a waste of time. Totally cool with parts delivery on request. Just really wondering what the hell i will have available to drive, seems I'm back to selling everything cool I build. would be cool to see the normal crew of Datsun heads Keeper out
  14. 2 points
    Two for the price of one and a 1200.
  15. 2 points
    Looks well sorted! Nice buy! I went and visited my car this week as she sits out the winter in a nice and warm place ?
  16. 1 point
    Just picked up this ‘77 Deluxe KC. I’ll see what it needs to get it running and driving again, clean the crap out of her and then decide what to do with her.
  17. 1 point
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  19. 1 point
    Is there 12 v at the relay on the jumper wire? W and WB ? If yes then there should be 12 v at the pump. The WB wire goes to the pump. Is there 12 v at the pump when the jumper in place? If no then the wire is broken or the 10 pin connector under the passenger seat isn't connecting. This 10 pin connector joins the external harness under the truck to the rear, to the cab harness.
  20. 1 point
    The automatic had 4.375 for sure. All 4 and 5 speeds were 4.11 unless the optional 4.375 was specified, or it had the Camper or Cab/Chassis option.
  21. 1 point
    Used jumper and pump not running. Pump runs when hooked up to a battery. All fuses good. New relay installed. Test shows 12 volts at pump connection. Pump has been stripped, filter cleaned, reassembled and bench tested before reinstall. All new fuel lines tank to carb.
  22. 1 point
    Ah Saints won, good, I had to stuff so tuned off after the second Foles TD.
  23. 1 point
    Untitled by raymond medeiros, on Flickr Untitled by raymond medeiros, on Flickr Thanks Troy Ermish, brand new NOS blinker setup.
  24. 1 point
    You have 12v at the pump? It should run. Do you hear it running? If you have power at the pump and it isn't running it can only be a bad pump or the ground is no good. If pump making sound but no gas, the tank is either empty, the line to the pump is plugged or the line to the carb is plugged..... this isn't that hard.
  25. 1 point
    Ok...thank so much guys. I think I got it figured out. The rears were pumping up so that’s what I assume was giving me a little bit of pedal, but come to find out the front adjusters were seized up and weren’t adjusted properly. The piston on the cylinder was pumping, but as was said...it wasn’t pushing the shoes out enough to build pressure. I removed the adjusters and got them cleaned and freed up so they now will move more freely. I reinstalled them and adjusted them so that the drum barely goes on then fine tuned them a little so that they barely scrub now. I bled them again and now have pedal pressure:) Took her for her maiden voyage and she stops pretty good. Problem is now as per the other thread...she died and wouldn’t restRt. Darn carb. Thanks again and now gotta get it running reliably. Andy agouge888
  26. 1 point
  27. 1 point
    Yes the truck autos are very strong/reliable if they are not over heated from towing and the fluid is changed every 30K. What year? The 3N71B was changed to torque converter lock up around '82
  28. 1 point
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  32. 1 point
    About when I made the tail light repair thread, I put together some pairs of 521 tail lights, for my 521 trucks. Since then, I have let it be known that I will take any 521 tail light parts, no matter how damaged. I might be able to come up with some pieces you need. See this page. https://www.carpartsmanual.com/#ManualsMenu
  33. 1 point
    Just bought it last week and already getting into working on it. Edit: can’t do direct imgur link for some reason. https://imgur.com/a/Zji8lz9
  34. 1 point
    I've picked up a few things here and there. I need to catch up on posting finds.
  35. 1 point
  36. 1 point
  37. 1 point
    Ted Johnson(tdaaj) might be the best on this and he lives south of Olympia
  38. 1 point
  39. 1 point
    Thanks for the tip
  40. 1 point
    oh chit, you might get banned or a spanking if it's your 1st time. you need to post here > https://ratsun.net/classifieds/ GLwtS
  41. 1 point
  42. 1 point
    There would be three fusible links connected to the positive battery terminal. One Black and two Greens. One Green link goes directly to the ignition switch and in the ON position powers fuse 1 through 5 In the Accessory position powers fuse 6 and 7. These are all items that need to be controlled on and off by the ignition... fuel pump, rear defogger, ignition. The Black is connected directly to the alternator to take the charging output and then also to fuse 8 through 13 on the fuse box. Fuse 8 clock Fuse 9 not used Fuse 10 powers the heater fan through the switch. Fuse 11 powers the horn Fuse 12 is the brake lights and 4 way emergency lamps Fuse 13 powers the side markers, license, tail lights, parking lights, interior light, and dash lights. The other Green link powers fuse 14 and 15 the L & R headlights
  43. 1 point
    I started cutting some rocker rust out. Got distracted by all the squirrel nests and acorns. I'm kinda jumping around so seats are out and the floor work has begun. It will all be one color. Here's a before: I finally finished the IRS cover panel and seam sealed it. No pics of it finished but I'll show it once it's painted. With the interior bare, I noticed the shock mounts were starting to rust. These were hastily fabbed up the week before I moved here so I could dolly tow it without the rear end bouncing everywhere. I never really finished them, but they made it through the 2018 Challenge. With speed holes and paint, they are now finished. About 1/4 lb removed. Since I was jacking up the rear to get the shocks out, I saw an opportunity to replace the rear springs back to OEM height, hopefully raising the rear and leveling out the stance. Here's my super awesome trick for easy rear spring removal. Not sure it's any better, but maybe? Also I paid $18 to get some new numbers stamped on this thing I found at a flea market.
  44. 1 point
  45. 1 point
    The red light on the dash should come on when the ignition is turned on to show that the bulb is not burned out. It should shut off and stay off as long as the oil pressure is above about 8 PSI. By 'oil indicator' I can only assume you mean the oil pressure gauge? The 720 4x4 uses a single sensor for the gauge and the red low pressure light. Make sure it is plugged in securely. If this does not resolve the problem replace the sender, about $20 at NAPA or where ever. Use a spanner to remove and install the new one. NEVER twist the case by hand, trust me other than to start the threads. The smoking can only be worn rings or worn valve guides so nothing that can easily be done there. However, you can replace the valve guide seals which may be old and not controlling the oil getting down the valve stems. There is a very easy way to do this without removing the head and not using any tools. The seals are less than $2 each. Not a big loss if this does not fix the problem.
  46. 1 point
    She's new to me, my wife named her Jolene. Naturally as soon as I got her it's been rainy basically every day so she's just taunting me from the garage. I took her out for a quick trip to the DMV to transfer the title and had a bit of fun getting the rear end loose in second gear ?
  47. 1 point
  48. 1 point
    Got a bit carried away on the left door so back to priming stage Been pushing the car by the wheels and it sucks, figured it was time to install steering. and sold the coilover built for this bird. but got a hold of some others and went with it.
  49. 1 point
    Primer time On to the inside of the hood and doors This hood is near perfect besides this rust WTF However instead of welding it up i decided to use panel bond, " said to be better then welding" Clear it real good and squeeze it in there. One door was blasted couple days ago the other blasted a year ago, hand print rust, my fav Metal prep to the rescue Sealed DP40LF epoxy primer sealer
  50. 1 point
    And sealed ? Cleaned and installed the factory rubber, then seamseal the rubber and tail light panel seam
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