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Showing content with the highest reputation on 12/29/2018 in all areas

  1. 3 points
    The manufacture should have an "exact" percentage of shrinkage based on the material used and the mass of the material. The mass may not matter. The shrinkage should be pretty linear for a given material. I don't know how to do it, but mold makers have to account for it when making molds.
  2. 1 point
    Hi Guys, New to the forum and to owning a 720. I just got this truck for free from a friend and want to fix it up. (not for everyday driving lol) I would like to swap out the engine since this one has a blown head gasket. What engine could I put in this truck with it bolting up to the current mounts and transmission? I would like to make this fuel injected. Would i need anything besides the engine and ecm? The engine that is in the truck now was rebuilt however they did not do it right so water is in the oil. when we got it back from the shop it was out of time. I fixed the timing issue and then it blew the head gasket. Anyway, what would be my best options? Thanks in advance for any help.
  3. 1 point
    Hey all! I have a 69 521 in need of lug nut bolts. I had bought some off of eBay and they were not the right ones(they were too big) any suggestions on where I might find some? I have 1 bolt snapped on each wheel and want to replace ASAP. Thanks!
  4. 1 point
    I remember riding on steam locomotives. Oh right, locomotive. This thing...
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  10. 1 point
    Been working on my 1/24th Shakotan 620 a little bit too. Finally got the frame (c-notched) and front drop spindles, interior, and engine done. Need to paint the body to make any good progress. I’ll be using dragon green enamel from a can of touch up paint that I have.
  11. 1 point
    i also think that is the one that he said he didn't have a title for. i still haven't had a chance to go back and look at them thoroughly, but they aren't going anywhere in the mean time. this guy lives deep in the woods. stumbled across them while hunting.
  12. 1 point
    250.00. Belltech. There looking into making me a set with what I need. Again this is just temporary until I get a better idea what direction I want to go in. This rear end and tranny will not hold the power I’m making.
  13. 1 point
    unfortunately that is the one with the seized engine. kid ran it out of oil.
  14. 1 point
  15. 1 point
    black 1972 Bluebird wagon 800,000 Yen https://page.auctions.yahoo.co.jp/jp/auction/w285146529 1812-0013 VN510 modified Nissan Datsun There Bluebird wagon restoration base recommended vehicle documents (temporarily deleted) Including the above image, the number of images that can not be put on you can confirm at the following URL. Please check all means. Https://Yahoo.Jp/box/pSA9Hm VN510 modified Nissan Datsun There Bluebird wagon restoration base recommended vehicle documents (temporarily deleted) is commissioned exhibition. <Vehicle information> Model: VN510 breaks the prime mover of the type: L14 chassis number: VN51005 ★★★★ total exhaust volume: 1.42L transmission: column MT (perhaps 3-speed MT) first-time registration date: 1973 April one o'clock deleted : March 30, 2006 mileage: 71,972km (car verification described distance: 70,100km / 2004 03 may 05, 2009) There are documents (temporarily deleted) modify the contents: a prime mover (dual type carburetor) model-classification : 02507 - 0022 <for specifications and state> ● not one o'clock deleted after went the development of for traveling. ● Many of scratches and paint aging of the exterior, there is rust, the rear gate there are a number of holes due to rust. ● I understand that there is a defect on the right side of the door hinge. ● front lip spoiler has been missing half. ● headlights and various lenses, cracks in various window There is no. ● window plating mall of the luggage room window (passenger side) will be deficient. ● deterioration due to aging is also the interior, scratches, dirt, there are cracks in the dashboard. ● had air cleaner cover is removed at the time of shooting, but the thing itself is stored in the vehicle. ● can not enter into the vehicle at the time of shooting, we are not take a lot of image for the interior.  Come, I think that you confirm the check the current car. ● Because there is the temporary cancellation of the document, How will be as restore base vehicle? ● attached to the exhibition of a round car, please understand that I do not do sales of the products as individual components. <To those who wish to check the current car> your name and contact information (e-mail address or phone number), on top of the described the desired date and time, I think you can ask questions? Even if it questions, answers to questions from the side of I will not be published because it does not do. (Not visible from a third party) to the exhibitor commissioned bidder after having sounded the current vehicle check hope date and time, we will be directly contact the gotten contacts. It will be necessary to witness the exhibition commissioned bidder to check the current car, please note that there is a possibility that you hope does not pass. (Because it is the right and left to the convenience of the exhibition commissioned bidder of business) In addition, you get a little of your time to schedule the adjustment of an exhibition commissioned bidder also, together, please understand. I view of the above, thank you like you can ask questions with a time margin. <About delivery> it will be the status quo delivery. By borne the land transportation fee to the highest bidder, you can also land transportation arrangements of an exhibition commissioned bidder side. Land transportation arrangements by the highest bidder, it corresponds also to the direct taking over by the loader and the like. If attached to your delivery date and time, it will be adjusted in consultation with the successful bidder. In addition, it will be us W worker, please understand that your connection after a reply and a successful bid to a question you might be delayed until after the next day. On the above your understanding of the capped, We will wait for the tender of the person who can acknowledge NC, the NR. <Note> If attached to the period of 12 / 29-01 / 06, shop-like, which is located deposit the car will be the year-end and New Year holidays. Please note that you can not check the current car in this period.
  16. 1 point
    This is a write up on determining which wheels will work with this brake kit BEFORE you take this route. This is an "off the car" write-up. Parts: 240sx rear brake rotors, 1984-90 Pulsar front caliper (48mm) and brake pads. Note: 240sx rear rotor is slightly thinner(9mm) than the 1982-88, 200sx rear rotor, (10mm). NOTE: This kit widens front track width by 1/2" total. The thickness of the two rotor hats Wheel is 13X5.5 Western Wheel. MOST parts stores will let you return calipers and rotors if not all greases and messed-up, brake pads that may be a different story depending on the store. IF you don't want to buy pads, no worries 5/8 wood spacers, or what solid material you wish to use... want spacers to reflect same thickness as NEW brake pads, as the floating caliper is at it's closest to the inner wheel rim. This will allow you to test fit wheel/rotor/caliper to MOST Datsun/Nissan RWD, FWD you are on your own. Datsun 1200 front hub rotor, remove from spindle, and separate captured rotor from hub. 10.5 inches flat across mounting hub- should work- but... Pads in place in Pulsar caliper. Cardboard shims in between caliper piston and inner brake pad to keep outer pad tight against the rotor. Finger tighten lug nuts, don't skip this part...if there is interference between the caliper body and the rim of the wheel you WILL damgae the wheel! The blue ink shows where the caliper was binding on the wheel rim. Using 5mm spacer, allowed clearance between rotor and rim, remember spacers widen the front track and may foul the fender. Other factors to consider: wheel/tire clearance to strut/coilover springs, steering arm clearance to wheel rim when "roll center spacers' are added for 13" or14" wheels.
  17. 1 point
    Well I imagine that there is the wing window and it's fitment without the rubber. Could IT be scanned to make a mold with a 3d printer?? What about using a substance that is malleable but hardens like rubber? Mold by hand onto the wing window that's prepared with a non stick agent like lecithin or commercial mold release agent, let set and remove?
  18. 1 point
    Does the buy in include "adjustments"? If you send them a 55 year old window rubber, which has undoubtedly shrunk over the years, and they make a mold to that exact spec, and then you try it out and find it does in fact not fit, will they make adjustments? Or will they charge you for another mold? My manufacturing shop lets me test fit parts before we settle on a final design. That's part of the initial cost, and it's agreed upon up front. I've said it before, if someone finally is able to get these rubbers made, I will buy a set, if not two. I don't even own a Datsun anymore, but with rubbers available, I would go buy another 320.
  19. 1 point
    How much are those springs? Deaver will make springs for about $600-$800/pair. Totally custom with whatever options/measurements you want. I've had them make me main leaves before and re-used the other leaves to make up the spring pack.
  20. 1 point
    Being in the bay area, you should not have a hard time finding a Datsun guy to help you figure this out. Or you could simply remove one and take it to your local NAPA to have it cross referenced into a Dorman part number. Where in thje bay area are you? If you're anywhere near Concord, Monument Auto Parts is the best, or at least they used to be. I don't live in the bay area anymore, but when I did, they were the best.
  21. 1 point
    I think he’s talking about the studs. I have a whole set sitting on my work bench, since I replaced all mine to fit aluminum wheels. How many do you want and where are you located?
  22. 1 point
  23. 1 point
    That pic is probably showing you the orientation of those wires in the plug.... Ground = ground Oil pressure = ground , but when it activates it shuts the ground off to turn the idiot light off.... This could be different on the 720, I'm not sure.. so verify polarity and function of your oil sender..... Acc= 12v switched from key.... Fuel pump= where your sending the power...... Fuse #6 = this is the power for the pump..... Altenator =positive, I think it's the lamp system so its 12v while truck is running... So the goal is to connect fuel pump to fuel #6..... if you connect ground to the ground and power to the acc you should hear a click, if not add power to the alternator then, then add in the oil pressure switch, I'm not sure what the relay is looking for from the oil pressure switch, maybe if it sees ground it wont activate.... so maybe that stays off... check continuity between the fuel pump and fuse wire.... that's how I would go after it.... Feel free to comment and correct this if I'm off track....
  24. 1 point
    Wayno I so agree with you, I don't know though if 0.5" or less is going to be noticeably really. I am also looking into just getting some made. I can always send these back.
  25. 1 point
    The thread on a stock 521 lug nut is 7/16-20. I am not sure of the length.
  26. 1 point
    Guess not an issue with me because mine doesn't work but maybe a good idea to check that circuit while I have the passenger seat out to remove fuel pump relay.
  27. 1 point
    Yup already did that and the wing window gaskets..... I have the felt piece that goes in front and in back of the window too.... gotta get that in also......
  28. 1 point
    The genuine Nissan felt C-channel for the windows was worth the pain in the ass of putting it in. No window rattles anymore!
  29. 1 point
    It's funny you mentioned the weather stripping and the air coming in.... During the rebuild I filled and plugged a bunch of firewalls hole.... every grommet was either missing or deteriorated..... After Sealing all the up I was actually able to feel my heater, even without door seals, wasnt the case before..... New door seals are on my list of things to do, but that means I might have to do some panel adjustments too.....
  30. 1 point
    Richie RIch. If you are rich, then go engine swap. Even the basic EFI motor swap, done by yourself, will cost $3500 in parts. $7500 to have it done in a shop. That's just a guess, but time adds up. No engine other than the Z series will "bolt in", but the KA24E truck motor is the easiest EFI motor to swap in. And with about 50 more HP, stock, not a bad way to go.
  31. 1 point
    It's always the little things. I don't care how much HP you've got, or how long a burnout you can do, if your truck lets air in like a blow drier, rattles like a pig and bottoms out on every bump, it's just another POS. Now that same truck with zero squeaks, good weatherstripping and cushy bumpstops... much more fun to drive.
  32. 1 point
  33. 1 point
    Sometimes it's the little things..... Since I got the locks working I want to keep the knobs from bouncing around.... Less rattles the better....
  34. 1 point
    Cheapest, easiest, is to replace the head gasket, after all, the engine was rebuilt and should have lots of good miles left in it. The water in the oil is from the blown gasket, which may have been from incorrectly putting it on or torquing the head or not checked for warp. The Z24 is commonly known for blowing the head gasket which is unfortunate because it's easy enough to prevent. If you are not doing this yourself, don't go back to the place that did the work for your 'friend'. If you do it yourself and have a socket set you can do for the price of a NAPA gasket, about $25. The head can be checked for flatness with a straight edge and you easily can hand sand it level in under an hour yourself with a sheet of glass and a couple of sheets of sand paper. There is no other engine that will fit your engine mounts. But the KA24E or KA24DE from a D21 Hardbody is the closest and will bolt to your transmission. A member here sells pre-made engine mount brackets for the KA that should bolt to your 720 rubber mounts. A rebuilt KA is not going to be cheap (used is no better than the Z24 you have) and you will need a high pressure fuel pump, match to your exhaust down pipe. Probably your rad will work. The D21 Hardbody EFI wiring is part of the Hardbody truck's wire harness and very difficult to separate, and then you have to graft it into the 720 harness. There's another member who makes a Can Am box that makes the connecting easier. Replace the head gasket.
  35. 1 point
  36. 1 point
    Nice to meet both of you. Hope to meet up again some time!
  37. 1 point
    Same here I'll have when you go passed Medford.
  38. 1 point
  39. 1 point
    Done it in August but didnt have time to visit. Waiting for details, have to be at work at 2300 on the first so that kinda makes things questionable
  40. 1 point
  41. 1 point
    I got some advice on this, and remember we have been doing blue lake a long time. DO NOT take the same weekend as canby, do it later in june. Canby was having issues with rain due to the season pushed back. Not only that, you will have HUGE competition with Kicking It Old School, which is already set in on that date, and i know alot of datsun people that are going there. Dont start a new show, on the same weekend as other established shows. It never works out good. Space the shows out from other shows.
  42. 1 point
    Well this is great news. I’m sad Canby finally ended after over a decade, but i was happy to be able to doucment it and help out for the last 2 years it was around. I actually had just moved up from Sacramento myself, and was really happy to find such a vibrant Datsun enthusiast community up here. It would be a shame to lose a tent-pole annual event now. That said, @jbirds510, let’s sync up about video coverage for this event. I don’t require much, other than access. Thanks for doing this!
  43. 1 point
    Will this work on the one drum system or only disk brakes
  44. 1 point
    Wish I could of met you at Jccs I was hanging at the VTO wheels booth with white 2dr , we are about to embark on a CA18det automatic 67 411 in about a month or so for a customer ,other option sr20de na auto , we will post up when get it opened up. Have seen some L18 conversions . Keep pics coming .
  45. 1 point
    A quick update. I recently drove the 411 from San Francisco to Long Beach and back for the JCCS show. Thanks to a tweak to the distributor, it stopped backfiring and no longer needs the choke out at higher speeds. It ran great for the trip. Might want to look into an upgrade for the cooling system. Got a little warm over the Grapevine. The car got a good number of compliments at the show. Most people just "don't know what it is..." I only saw 2 411s there: mine and "Alice." Unfortunately, they didn't put us near each other. I was parked near mainly 70s and 80s Datsuns. I took it down the coast on Saturday. Ran fine for the most part, but it was idling inconsistently. Arrived home OK, but checked the engine. A 17mm bolt that carries a small "ball" at the end of the threads was missing. This is the bolt is one of two bolts holding the main support for the SUs' linkage. Looking for a replacement bolt, though, I can't find one online. If anyone has a part number for this piece, please let me know. More info coming soon.
  46. 1 point
    Thank you everyone that made it out!! Great times with old peeps and sweet to see a few new ones show up.... ....smaller turnout but that's probably my bad....didn't realize how many events were going on that day.... Another one soon...
  47. 1 point
    Took the 'Bird to Manteca, CA for the "Datslocos" annual show. Some nice comments, mainly from women. They loved it. The young dudes? They have no idea what it was and most of the attention, for them, was focused on dimes and 240zs. Ah well. Car ran well over the Altamont Pass. Windows rattling like crazy!
  48. 1 point
    I got a ride today. Pretty dang sweet. Happy camper! Some tweaks coming next week.
  49. 1 point
    About .5-.75" longer, yes. Even with this big spacer and the rotor, they work well
  50. 1 point
    Solid. With so many 521 stud threads, it's good to see actual pics and spec. Answers a lot of questions. :thumbup: Glad you got these figured out for you. Are those studs you used longer than OE?
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