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Showing content with the highest reputation on 12/29/2018 in all areas

  1. 1 point
    Hi Guys, New to the forum and to owning a 720. I just got this truck for free from a friend and want to fix it up. (not for everyday driving lol) I would like to swap out the engine since this one has a blown head gasket. What engine could I put in this truck with it bolting up to the current mounts and transmission? I would like to make this fuel injected. Would i need anything besides the engine and ecm? The engine that is in the truck now was rebuilt however they did not do it right so water is in the oil. when we got it back from the shop it was out of time. I fixed the timing issue and then it blew the head gasket. Anyway, what would be my best options? Thanks in advance for any help.
  2. 1 point
    Guess not an issue with me because mine doesn't work but maybe a good idea to check that circuit while I have the passenger seat out to remove fuel pump relay.
  3. 1 point
    Yup already did that and the wing window gaskets..... I have the felt piece that goes in front and in back of the window too.... gotta get that in also......
  4. 1 point
    The genuine Nissan felt C-channel for the windows was worth the pain in the ass of putting it in. No window rattles anymore!
  5. 1 point
    Richie RIch. If you are rich, then go engine swap. Even the basic EFI motor swap, done by yourself, will cost $3500 in parts. $7500 to have it done in a shop. That's just a guess, but time adds up. No engine other than the Z series will "bolt in", but the KA24E truck motor is the easiest EFI motor to swap in. And with about 50 more HP, stock, not a bad way to go.
  6. 1 point
    It's always the little things. I don't care how much HP you've got, or how long a burnout you can do, if your truck lets air in like a blow drier, rattles like a pig and bottoms out on every bump, it's just another POS. Now that same truck with zero squeaks, good weatherstripping and cushy bumpstops... much more fun to drive.
  7. 1 point
    The brown one looks ready to go ! wish mine looked that good
  8. 1 point
  9. 1 point
    Sometimes it's the little things..... Since I got the locks working I want to keep the knobs from bouncing around.... Less rattles the better....
  10. 1 point
    Cheapest, easiest, is to replace the head gasket, after all, the engine was rebuilt and should have lots of good miles left in it. The water in the oil is from the blown gasket, which may have been from incorrectly putting it on or torquing the head or not checked for warp. The Z24 is commonly known for blowing the head gasket which is unfortunate because it's easy enough to prevent. If you are not doing this yourself, don't go back to the place that did the work for your 'friend'. If you do it yourself and have a socket set you can do for the price of a NAPA gasket, about $25. The head can be checked for flatness with a straight edge and you easily can hand sand it level in under an hour yourself with a sheet of glass and a couple of sheets of sand paper. There is no other engine that will fit your engine mounts. But the KA24E or KA24DE from a D21 Hardbody is the closest and will bolt to your transmission. A member here sells pre-made engine mount brackets for the KA that should bolt to your 720 rubber mounts. A rebuilt KA is not going to be cheap (used is no better than the Z24 you have) and you will need a high pressure fuel pump, match to your exhaust down pipe. Probably your rad will work. The D21 Hardbody EFI wiring is part of the Hardbody truck's wire harness and very difficult to separate, and then you have to graft it into the 720 harness. There's another member who makes a Can Am box that makes the connecting easier. Replace the head gasket.
  11. 1 point
  12. 1 point
    Nice to meet both of you. Hope to meet up again some time!
  13. 1 point
    Same here I'll have when you go passed Medford.
  14. 1 point
    Done it in August but didnt have time to visit. Waiting for details, have to be at work at 2300 on the first so that kinda makes things questionable
  15. 1 point
  16. 1 point
    I got some advice on this, and remember we have been doing blue lake a long time. DO NOT take the same weekend as canby, do it later in june. Canby was having issues with rain due to the season pushed back. Not only that, you will have HUGE competition with Kicking It Old School, which is already set in on that date, and i know alot of datsun people that are going there. Dont start a new show, on the same weekend as other established shows. It never works out good. Space the shows out from other shows.
  17. 1 point
    Well this is great news. I’m sad Canby finally ended after over a decade, but i was happy to be able to doucment it and help out for the last 2 years it was around. I actually had just moved up from Sacramento myself, and was really happy to find such a vibrant Datsun enthusiast community up here. It would be a shame to lose a tent-pole annual event now. That said, @jbirds510, let’s sync up about video coverage for this event. I don’t require much, other than access. Thanks for doing this!
  18. 1 point
    Will this work on the one drum system or only disk brakes
  19. 1 point
    Wish I could of met you at Jccs I was hanging at the VTO wheels booth with white 2dr , we are about to embark on a CA18det automatic 67 411 in about a month or so for a customer ,other option sr20de na auto , we will post up when get it opened up. Have seen some L18 conversions . Keep pics coming .
  20. 1 point
    A quick update. I recently drove the 411 from San Francisco to Long Beach and back for the JCCS show. Thanks to a tweak to the distributor, it stopped backfiring and no longer needs the choke out at higher speeds. It ran great for the trip. Might want to look into an upgrade for the cooling system. Got a little warm over the Grapevine. The car got a good number of compliments at the show. Most people just "don't know what it is..." I only saw 2 411s there: mine and "Alice." Unfortunately, they didn't put us near each other. I was parked near mainly 70s and 80s Datsuns. I took it down the coast on Saturday. Ran fine for the most part, but it was idling inconsistently. Arrived home OK, but checked the engine. A 17mm bolt that carries a small "ball" at the end of the threads was missing. This is the bolt is one of two bolts holding the main support for the SUs' linkage. Looking for a replacement bolt, though, I can't find one online. If anyone has a part number for this piece, please let me know. More info coming soon.
  21. 1 point
    Thank you everyone that made it out!! Great times with old peeps and sweet to see a few new ones show up.... ....smaller turnout but that's probably my bad....didn't realize how many events were going on that day.... Another one soon...
  22. 1 point
    Took the 'Bird to Manteca, CA for the "Datslocos" annual show. Some nice comments, mainly from women. They loved it. The young dudes? They have no idea what it was and most of the attention, for them, was focused on dimes and 240zs. Ah well. Car ran well over the Altamont Pass. Windows rattling like crazy!
  23. 1 point
    I got a ride today. Pretty dang sweet. Happy camper! Some tweaks coming next week.
  24. 1 point
    About .5-.75" longer, yes. Even with this big spacer and the rotor, they work well
  25. 1 point
    Solid. With so many 521 stud threads, it's good to see actual pics and spec. Answers a lot of questions. :thumbup: Glad you got these figured out for you. Are those studs you used longer than OE?

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