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Showing content with the highest reputation on 12/28/2018 in Posts

  1. 2 points
    A few years ago an article turned up on line about the estate sale of a Nash/Rambler parts hoarder. The pictures were full of nothing but very elderly men on scooters and walkers. The author suggested the fellas were tripping one another to get to the parts they wanted. Men on the verge of death still fighting over parts for an orphan make whose minty hardtops and convertibles don't even bring major cash struck me as especially sad for some reason.
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  4. 2 points
    Also sourced myself one of these beauties. I should have a quick release for it in the next couple of days.
  5. 2 points
    The latest photo of my 1971 Datsun 510 Cosmo 13B Rotary turbo. Engine rebuild by Abel Ibarra. Did most of the work for over 25 years, except the engine rebuild, interior upholstery and a 15 years old candy apple metallic red paint.
  6. 2 points
    The genuine Nissan felt C-channel for the windows was worth the pain in the ass of putting it in. No window rattles anymore!
  7. 1 point
    While browsing the world wide classifieds for SR20 parts for my 510 wagon build, I happened across this ad. My interest was peaked and I toyed with the idea for a while but eventually moved on. After a couple months, I came to find out that the car never sold and was still sitting at Sodo-Moto. Both Carter and Jeff had dealt with Sodo moto and had nothing but positive reviews. So, I decided to go down and take a look. The ad made it clear that the car was beat down with a lot of "janky tuner mods" and "battle scars" When we got down there it was clear what they meant. "Track Rat" seemed to be a accurate description. The car looked like it had been raced quite a bit. Bolt in cage, a few performance upgrades, race seat, coil overs, and a lot of electronics tied to the ECU. We took stock of the state of the car. As they advertised, the car had some damage on each quarter, it was filled and then re-damged on both sides. Seems the guy wasn't very good at his racing of choice.It did not run as it sat. Sodo Moto had only gone as far as ripping out a bunch of excess wiring shenanigans and diagnosing a fouled fuel pump. Other than that they knew it popped when fed some ether. I knew if I were to get the car it would need to be a runner without extensive work. The owner gave us permission to toy with the car at our will. He brought out a cheapo pump and with the tools I brought we had it fired up in short time. Surprisingly, even after what we guess to be at least 15 years, the SR roared to life. A smooth idle, good compression, boost pressure, some vapor, minimal smoke. However, lots of lifter noise. Since the GTiR has a solid lifters, they are louder than the normal hydraulic lifter SR but this was excessive. This came with low oil pressure, only about 30psi and not much gain with rpm. Engine = good enough Next was the transmission, these cars are notorious for blowing there cogs all over the ground when the overzealous try to put too much boost through all four wheels. Unfortunately, the tires were flat. (Actually worn in half on one by what I assume to be the cars last burn out session before being parked.) So, put it in every gear and pulled forward and back. No grinding, no red flags, best that could be done. Transmission = good enough Brakes, rusted in place and needing a complete overhaul. All glass good. No heavy rust/rot underneath. Interior, seats all there and looking fresh. They even had the minty stock drivers seat! The dash was trashed by gauge mounting and sun cracks. There really wasn't much more to be learned. A deal was struck and then it was just waiting for delivery. Since I still have my torn down wagon clogging up my only garage bay, Jeff was generous enough to loan me one until the car is a driver. Thanks buddy! Parked next to his coupe that he also got from Sodo, how fitting!
  8. 1 point
    The first stands for fascism, the second for a republic based on inalienable God-given rights for all?
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  10. 1 point
    Well..... damn, that's not a baby momma weekend..... nor am I sure what days exactly I'll be working but I think I have Friday night off And then back to work Sunday night.... I dont think I can make that work. Harsh
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    Man,those Aussies sure know how to live life "on the edge"! That driver probably also tore the tag off of his mattress.
  13. 1 point
    This update is a little more pic heavy, as certain areas have drawn more attention than others and things get fixed. Belt? Where we're going, we don't need... belts. Haven't had a chance to get into the door latch mechanism yet. I've found several leaks in the cabin that have demanded my more immediate attention, as well as the interior rust treatments (remember when I claimed no rust? silly me). The driver's side seat belt is done, and it seems to be a little too short for my liking even though we matched the length of the broken belt that came with the truck. Maybe that's why the belt broke... Those pictures will be added once my friend who helped me with the belt comes back with her phone that has all the belt pictures on it. It may also hold off until the belt has sufficient length. Interesting note, the plastic sliding belt clip part was originally a light blue, as was the belt. We had the idea of using clothing dye to color the blue parts black. For the belt clip, it worked amazingly well. For the silicone belt retraction mechanism cover... not so well. 30 minutes in the dye mix and nothing happened to it. We'll go at it again next time around to see if we can come up with a good color change method that doesn't involve paint. Road Block by Fuse Block The electronics pretty much died on me. No headlights, no park lights, no turn signal, whole bunch of nonsense. Visual inspection showed me a burnt fuse box. I mean, I knew it was gonna need fixing anyway, the previous owner's wiring jobs for the radio and signal flashers did not bode well for any electrical work. It was Christmas Eve, I didn't have any major plans, and decided my Christmas present to me was gonna be a running truck. Book work shows those are NOT the proper fuses either. No wonder it burnt out. 30 amp fuse... 30 amp alternator... hmmm. Autozone fuse block (P/N BP/FB6-ATM) and a test bracket I hammered out just to get a feel for how it would mount. Results of research on the fuse block layout. 72 was different than how 74 and 79 did the layout, but I stuck with the 72 layout because it's a temporary fix anyway. 3D printed an insulator/separator for the individual blades coming off the fuse block. Thought it might class up the joint a bit more, as well as stop inadvertent knees from bending and blades. First test fit. I couldn't get my heat gun out to the truck because of a lack of suitable extension cord, and since that's on the fused side of the circuit I decided oh well. Just put another insulator on it. Bracket needed a remake with a longer mounting flange to match the holes on the original fuse box. So I made a second one and finished mounting up the box. Tucked up under and out of the way. I still need to make a label for the cover, but there's an idea involving sandpaper and a laser engraver that may prevail for the cover. We shall seeeeee... It's Such a Pain in the Glass A couple days pass and I get some more free time to do some fun stuff. Decided it's time to install the back glass I sourced from a guy out in California... the only dude I found who was ballsy enough to ship glass through FedEx. Got a new seal from Vintage Rubber and installed the back glass. From this... To this! I'm going to be treating the entire cabin for rust now, so eventually the window is coming back out so I can address the miniscule rust developments in the mounting, but they really are quite tiny in comparison to other areas of the truck. So some progress has been made. I'm a little bummed I haven't had time to come up with anything fun for the doors yet, but I'm sure it'll come to me. Still need to make some new paper gaskets and address the mounting issues I keep having with the Weber working itself loose and giving me some lean issues while I'm driving, but I'll get to it. It's also oil change time, though I have forbidden myself from spending any more money on the truck until next payday. I have plenty of parts and materials to keep busy as it is. The driver's side floor pan is going to be replaced, and I'm debating how to go about it. I have rivets laying around, but I still need to polish my metalworking skills to make a more suitable floor pan. The first and second attempts are pretty much garbage in my opinion. More updates to come!
  14. 1 point
    Yup, happened to me yesterday.
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  17. 1 point
    The thread on a stock 521 lug nut is 7/16-20. I am not sure of the length.
  18. 1 point
    I measured Nissan 720 leafs in my back yard, ask anyone on here with rear 720 leafs if the holes in the leafs are centered, they are not, now they may be centered on the D21 leafs, that I do not know, but they are not centered on the 720 leafs 2wd or 4wd, nor on the 620, 521, or the 520 leafs, measure your 521 leaf. I just went out and measured 5 different leafs, the 521, the 620 mobile home, the 720 4wd, 720 2wd, and 720 cab/chassis leafs, they were all 22 inches from the center of the front eye to the center of the pin, 23.5 is not right for the 520/521/620/720, it may be correct for the D21(hardbody), I do not know what they use, although I have never heard of anyone using D21 leafs on their Datsuns except the guy that put his 521 cab on a D21 chassis. It now sounds like they are trying to find something that will fit your truck, personally I want my rear wheels centered in my front and rear fender wells in my 720 chassis conversions, it looks goofy when they are not centered, and you do not want your nice truck looking goofy.
  19. 1 point
    I've got a nos dash in oem packaging for sale.
  20. 1 point
  21. 1 point
    I'll bet that the neighbor's dogs don't mess with that cat.
  22. 1 point
    heat was going to be my suggestion too. I'd prefer to use a heat gun.....if you use a torch...be careful and have a fire extinguisher next to you or a bug sprayer full of water and pumped up.
  23. 1 point
    i used door stops from my "local" hardware store like this https://www.bunnings.com.au/adoored-30mm-black-rubber-round-door-stop_p3961326
  24. 1 point
    A pox on king pins! Send all king pins back to hell where they belong. I've popped the top press in cover disc? plug? with a grease gun before. I've heated them and had smoke/steam come out the other nipple when grease pumped in the other. Steering was always better on a Monday morning after a weekend of muddling to lubricate the pins.
  25. 1 point
    Heat is probably your only option, I wouldnt use alot but enough to warm things up.... Don't know if it's up on jack stand or not maybe that might help too just get the weight off, and maybe get someone to turn the wheel back and forth too.
  26. 1 point
    That was half a year ago. Get with it.
  27. 1 point
    Yup already did that and the wing window gaskets..... I have the felt piece that goes in front and in back of the window too.... gotta get that in also......
  28. 1 point
    NEVERMIND NEVERMIND....I FOUND THE INFO. Its in this thread.
  29. 1 point
    By the way I got the stainless pillars at 2018 Canby show. I’m on it.
  30. 1 point
    If you find a Datsun in a wrecking yard and are looking it over for parts you need, always check the glove box. Often the PO will buy a part and then not get around to replacing it. I've gotten a brand new U joint, crank seal and spark plugs. Not in the same truck.
  31. 1 point
    Call the auto parts store for items needed for the vintage cars - "NOPE! The computer says I can't even ORDER it! It's unavailable!". Browse rockauto and they offer it from three different manufacturers. Wait......it shows I purchased one. Look in the glove box of the ailing vintage vehicle: yup - there it is, new in the bag. Many such cases.
  32. 1 point
    It's funny you mentioned the weather stripping and the air coming in.... During the rebuild I filled and plugged a bunch of firewalls hole.... every grommet was either missing or deteriorated..... After Sealing all the up I was actually able to feel my heater, even without door seals, wasnt the case before..... New door seals are on my list of things to do, but that means I might have to do some panel adjustments too.....
  33. 1 point
    Sometimes it's the little things..... Since I got the locks working I want to keep the knobs from bouncing around.... Less rattles the better....
  34. 1 point
    Interior light. Comes on when you open the drivers door. Stays on for about 20 seconds after closing the door an leaving unless the ignition key is in. Not all trucks may have it but the amplifier is under the passenger side seat although the cruise control has something there as well..
  35. 1 point
    3rd page re-linked.
  36. 1 point
    The older stuff never had electric pumps so if the engine stopped then the fuel stopped..... I replaced my mechanical pump with an electric fuel pump and use an oil pressure sender/cuttoff... if I loose oil pressure the fuel stop.... .... This takes a starter input and a 12v ignition input and outputs to the fuel pump..... You could just power it like you said but it's just not safe.... I'm not 100% sure on the 720 setup but your not the first I've read about with a fuel pump relay issue.... I'll elaborate if needed.....
  37. 1 point
    So I was loading my truck on a trailer again and it fell off and rolled. I will post pics of it, but the truck is done. merry Christmas to me. .
  38. 1 point
    Truck got to move to start worrying about anything breaking. Merry xmas mfers!!!!
  39. 1 point
    I’ve broken leafs on my Xterra in locations where there weren’t any holes...
  40. 1 point
    Re drilling will not be an issue, for weight wise guys. I would say undo stress from HP. I was and still going to re drill however yes as mike said leave a bolt and nut in place and redial for center axle alignment. I am more worried about the on and off the trailer movement. Asshole's.
  41. 1 point
    Very interested in this. Mine is in good shape yet, but has a tear WAY in the corner. Gives my OCD a little eye twitch when I look at it.
  42. 1 point
    Yay! It dried out a bit. I put my new seat belts in and really knocked the dust off up in the Berkeley hills.
  43. 1 point
    Newbie: I made several attempts to have new vent rubbers made domestically in the USA. I tried Lynn Steele (Super high end quality for classic car and hard to get rubber goods) and got a quote of approx. $7500 to make two precision molds (left and right). Then to make a practical short run (based on efficiency, not cost) was for a run of 50. This was years ago so I don't remember if this was for 25 sets or 50 sets. IF you do this, make sure you have an agreement where you "own" the molds, so the manufacturer is contractually prevented from selling these parts without your participation. Also, I suggest you discuss making these out of EPDM )Ethylene-Propylene-Diene-Monomer), which is well known for its excellent "ozone, weathering, and aging resistance." I copied that description from the manufacturer you listed, because it illustrates the material properties I was told by virtually all three of the rubber extruders I talked to. It would be a shame to go to all this effort and not upgrade to ozone-resistant material so these last longer than OEM before deteriorating. Most importantly, unless you have money to burn, I would want commitments from people who will buy these. With that said, there was a very unfortunate debacle a few years ago on this very site when people paid in advance for new extended cab 620 window rubbers. I would become a PM to take this offline so as not to cause angst on this forum or break any "for sale" rules. If the price is anywhere close to what you put out there in your post , I will buy two sets. I sold my 320 to a buddy, who uses it to haul his vintage Norton and BSA to bike shows. But someday this truck is most likely coming back to me. Before you do anything, search ratsun for the 620 extended cab rubber gasket threads. Just saying.... go into this with your eyes wide open. DOn't let me discourage you. There are a few of us who would dearly love to see quality reproductions made!
  44. 1 point
  45. 1 point
    I cheated. Drilled and tapped a 1/4" NPT hole into the side, so I could get a strait shot at it with a punch but did leave the nut on it. After it was put back in, just plugged the hole with an aluminum pipe plug.
  46. 1 point
    That’s just plain ridiculous! https://www.urbandictionary.com/define.php?term=steez
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  48. 1 point
    Fuuuuuuuuck I might not want to work the whole Christmas break than
  49. 1 point
    Finally got a free couple hours with full welding gases and suppliesto get this charge pipe sorted. Still need to final weld everything but super happy with how it worked out! Not quite the lowest thing. Not ideal but stays hidden and it’s not like these have a ton of crush room anyway ?
  50. 1 point
    I added a fairly lengthly post to Mighty Mouse thread - page 14 on the tank rebuild here:
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