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Showing content with the highest reputation on 12/20/2018 in all areas

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    Since when have truckers become athletes???
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    Contact BlueBird_Jimmy on IG, he just had a bluebird imported from Japan and it'll be fresh in his memory.
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    In my opinion it should be left unlocked till after the event replacing it, my thinking is that some that go to Canby do not even come to Ratsun until May when they start checking this thread and the DatsunNW thread, since so little was published about Canby being cancelled until recently, these folks will know what is going on with this thread if it is not locked, it will end up 5 pages buried if locked and likely the DatsunsNW thread will end up buried anyway.
  12. 2 points
    I share my towel and soap. Who’s with me.
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    attachment.php?attachmentid=3325229&d=15 .
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    Well customs is going have something to say about it, they will want customs fees, import fees, taxes, it can go on and on if you let it, I imported an engine from Australia and everyone and their brother will want money from you, finally in the end I told them that I paid to have the engine delivered to Portland in advance, and I was not going to pay any more and they could keep the engine, well it made it to Portland and I had to pay customs and a forklift fee at the warehouse, and I did not pay any of those people sending me bills and calling me on the phone which totalled hundreds of dollars. Later I searched my own name and found that someone had called me an import genis, I have no idea who it was, and I never received a letter from debt collectors or anyone else for that matter about that engine after taking it into possession after going to the customs office. Keep in mind that I was unable to see the engine before paying customs, I had no idea where it was till I paid them, then they told me where to go to get it.
  17. 1 point
    Oh, I see. Longer bolts & nylocks? Fold over locking plates like you suggested, across two bolts? Pay $1500(?) for the ones from Troy Ermish that don't use adapters?
  18. 1 point
    https://www.wikihow.com/Drill-Bolts-for-Lock-Wiring https://www.amazon.com/Allstar-ALL10122-Safety-Drill-Fixture/dp/B006K8G7JE or https://www.amazon.com/Aircraft-Tool-Supply-Safety-Safblock/dp/B005VR4BG6/ or if you want all bases covered https://www.amazon.com/OTC-4794-Safety-Drill-Metric/dp/B008PV85IA/
  19. 1 point
    You drill them on a press, not installed.
  20. 1 point
    Only acceptable if it's your Ex's place.
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    There's nothing to compare with taking a shit in the forest.Nothing. It's primal. Grunt and make all the noise as you can, it makes the process easier, rejoice, this is the way it was meant to be done. Beginners, hang onto a tree or branch. Just scuff the undergrowth aside and cover back up. Always have TP with you.
  23. 1 point
    If you look at the photo of the adapter I made to mount the turbo to the exhaust manifold in a post earlier in this thread you see that the hole is not that large, that hole is not even close to the intake hole in my throttle body/carb looking thing on my intake manifold and my engine runs great. Another thing to note, when I finally got around to looking at that home made exhaust manifold that sat around for years on a shelf because I never thought it would work properly, well when I removed that adapter it had on it for that larger turbo it had on it and seen that giant hole I thought, "that might work", the reason for tearing it apart was to scrap it, as I have a lot of stuff around here, well I changed my mind right then and there, I thought give it a shot. Keep in mind that the way that exhaust manifold was made with the hole cut in the side and the stock exhaust exit location welded up I thought there was no way the exhaust flow was going to flow efficiently moving backwards in 75 percent of that exhaust manifold, but it made it a lot easier to pipe the turbo exhaust out thru the stock exhaust exit area, I actually planned to make a "U" pipe to mount my turbo like it is mounted in the 720, but when I seen that giant hole in that home made exhaust manifold I changed my mind. My thinking comes back to the same thing every time, diesel engines do not move air like gas engines do, they operate at much lower RPMs and move less air. I believe when I bought my first SD25 out of the side of that guys yard(sitting against the side of the house in mud) that it had a SD22 intake manifold on it as it used the SD22 intake piping/sheet metal piping, I always wondered if it had an SD22 injection pump also, it ran fine that way for years, but when I put the turbo on it I took the intake manifold off another SD25 I had(was over heated) and put it on the engine in my 521 truck, if I were to guess right now with all the stuff I have done of the years I would say that what you have on your SD22 intake manifold will work fine, I suppose if you were racing it or doing burnout contests like them guys do in Australia a larger intake manifold might make a slight difference, but for normal driving I think what you have will be fine. My 521 has a two and a half inch exhaust pipe from the turbo back with no muffler, the pipe goes all the way to the rear of the truck. My 720 has a 3 inch pipe from the turbo back with no muffler, it exits to the side at the ground just in front of rear wheels. OK, my intakes are weird, even though the turbos are different sizes, both have around one and a half inch pipes coming off the turbos, but the 521 has no adapter, the tubing is mounted directly onto the DSD25 throttle body/carb looking thing, my 720 has an adapter on top of the throttle body/carb looking thing, that adapter allows me to use the SD22 intake piping from there to the airfilter canister, that adapter has the same size hole as an SD22 throttle body/carb looking thing hole, so basically I have an SD22 intake on my SD25 powered 720, now I never really gave that much thought till now, I have no idea if that plays any part in why my 720 doesn't really drive well on the freeway, I can drive nearly 100mph but my foot is buried in the pedal, but I believe that the modified intake vane on the turbo is the biggest issue at the RPMs I drive on the freeway, I have too much boost! I have another turbocharger I can use, but I would have to make a new head pipe and since I hardly ever drive that truck I do not see the point right now. The piston squirters/oil jets are connected to the block and are pointed up at the back side of the pistons, as far as I know all the SD series diesel engines have them, in the photo below you can barely see the oil jets in this 3 main bearing engine.
  24. 1 point
    It also has the front suspension and disc brakes from a 720 - 1 leaf removed from the rear leafs - and stock stoppers in the back.
  25. 1 point
    Nope, Orig frame. The guy did make custom mounts for it though.
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    You will enjoy this then here is the listing pics Thanks, I have been lurking for some time, saving lots of pictures and chomping at the bit for a while to get started on my own project. Progress over the past 2 weeks since picking it up: factory mirror is cracked down the middle so I removed it and went hotrod (keeping all factory pieces for now) I have new window gaskets already as she leaks badly on the passenger side - so I am also looking into doing my own door panels at some point. (CRX seats included) Got some ellipsoid headlights. And my Brother is teaching me to weld Fortunately he does metal fab for a living and can clean up my work: She's developed a bit of a staring prob so I am going to have to dig into the electrical with him and I'm weighing just purchasing a kwikwire 14 circut harness and not worrying about the gremlins. Sticker for the namesake:
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    Got new parts, such as these fender covers: And started making the plenum from aluminium: Also bought riveting pliers or what they're called: Inserted new M6 threaded nuts to the fender arc because the old ones were worn out: Also bought a lot of brake stuff, started routing the brake lines to the front brakes. I drilled a 10mm deep hole to the small bump on the back of the strut and threaded a M6 to it so I have a mounting point for the T-piece: Wheel not in place yet, but just a broader view of the whole setup:
  29. 1 point
    Untitled by raymond medeiros, on Flickr Now I have both sides.
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    You are correct in that diesels operate at a much lower RPM than gassers, and consequently use less air. What I am trying to say is that the quantity of air can be increased without increasing fuel quantity and diesel EGT's won't go up, but maybe down instead. Whereas with gassers when you increase the volume of air without increasing the fuel quantity the motor temperature will go up, and very likely valve burning incidence, and other negative stuff, will go up. But, increase the air quantity along with an increase in fuel, and the gasser won't significantly increase motor temperature. Yes, I understand that the size of a turbo is important to a diesel motor. Too big a turbo and you will increase air at too low of an RPM for the amount of fuel injected, or too much total air, and a turbo will be a waste of effort. I haven't figured out yet what turbo I will use. That will be later, just that it will have to be sized properly for a small diesel motor. I do have the stock turbo off my Chevy pickup. I replaced the stock turbo with a Holset HX35W from a Dodge Cummins. The stock GM turbo supposedly runs out of breath somewhere around 3000 RPM, or less, and the HX35W won't. But, most likely the stock GM turbo will be way too big for the SD-22. I need to get extra gaskets to have on hand, and knowing that local parts store gaskets are probably OK (except for head gaskets) is good for me to know. I just don't want to spend good money on poor quality gaskets. Before I finalize the swap I should remove the pan to see how many mains it has so I know what I may deal with when I turbo the motor. Do you have any words of wisdom about the pan gasket? Glue it to the pan, but not to the block? Don't use any gasket sealer on either side of the gasket? Cork or rubber gasket? Your battery experience is good to know. I haven't looked at the battery situation yet, but I am planning ahead for amps needed, and anticipating needing to move it. Your experience with starting the SD-22 or 25 without using the starter is interesting to me. Makes me wonder if using fifth and a very low speed would be any good.
  31. 1 point
    Follow along with John Coltrane... WTF ?
  32. 1 point
    Diesels are different from gassers in that they need lots of air, and the motor RPM's are dictated by how much fuel is injected. Adding fuel WILL mean higher EGT's when there is no change in air available. More fuel NEEDS more available air to bring down EGT's. All this must be taken into consideration when adding a turbo. For this reason diesels will take more air both intake and exhaust without harm (even if more fuel is not added) which can possibly affect the efficiency of the motor in a positive way. More air flowing through, within reason, can make a real big difference in how the motor reacts. I know you know this, but I need you to know that I understand it before asking my next question. How much difference in size is there between the throttle bodies for the SD-22 and 25? Do you think the extra work of changing to an SD-25 intake is worth it, and if it can make any difference in power available? Or is it not worth the extra work when adding a turbo? Also, adding more fuel and air can decrease the fuel mileage. It's a two headed snake, more can mean less and less can mean more. The first thing I did, before the first start, was replace the glow plugs that were in the motor just in case they were the quick glow type (which I later determined they probably were). I learned from reading about the GM 6.2 and 6.5 NOT to use quick glow type as they will do like you had problems with. The quick glow plugs will work generally only one time in a normal/manual system, enlarging the tips enough that it will be difficult (or impossible) without removing the head. The quick glow plugs are for a special built low voltage system. For glow plugs I think I got Beck-Arnley 176-1034 for a 1981-1982 SD-22 (it's been two plus years since I got them and will have to look up what I got), which near as I could find are NOT the quick glow type. Since you rebuilt an SD-22 I'm assuming it was a three main bearing crank. According to what I found anything after motor serial number 618766 was a five main bearing crank and three ring piston. My motor has a serial number almost 98,000 after that, so I'm assuming it has a five main bearing crank and three rings on the pistons (never had the motor open yet). Also, from what I found all the SD-22 motors had piston oil squirters. Is this correct? I have never tried getting any parts for the SD-22 yet, except the glow plugs, and they are close to spark plugs in availability.. I know you said that a Nissan dealer will have the best head gasket. Will the Nissan dealer also be the the only place to get good gaskets for the oil pan, intake/exhaust manifold, and valve cover? I should get them to have on hand, maybe even the front and rear main seals. I don't want to spend my hard earned money on inferior gaskets or parts. I may need to move the battery to have room for peripherals (power steering and AC pump) on the motor. The original battery set up for the SD-22 only had one, but I was wondering if I needed a second for storage cushion. Moving the battery would present a good time to change to two batteries if needed.
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    Came up with another question, this time about batteries. My Chevy uses two batteries because glow plugs take so much power that they are like a second starter. I see you are using only one battery. Do you need a lot of amps to operate both the glow plugs and the starter?
  35. 1 point
    Here is a photo of the tach I have in my 521 kingcab, I think it is awesome, it is very easy to see.
  36. 1 point
    Well, disaster strikes again at my friend's shop. The City is doing some water main replacement out in front of my friend's shop in San Diego. The bonehead contractor didn't uncover the storm drains for the storm, and the shop was filled with 3 ft of water. (No exaggeration) A bunch of cars got flooded (in the shop and on the street) and my friend is finally going after the City. I'm sure there is an inclement weather clause in the contractor's contract, and they are required to carry insurance for this type of thing, so I think he'll make out okay. It "is" a major pain in the ass, but I think he'll recover everyone's losses.. I also had a week's worth of health-related things and tests, so that was a bit of a holdup as well. So far, I'm okay and no drama here. One more test to go in January.... I did make it down today and got a bit of work done. My inset box got folded up and fits the cut out in the tank pretty nicely. It's all tig welded up and tested for leaks/pinholes. It holds fine. This will be flush welded and will have about a 2" recess into the tank. It's going to reside where the fuel sender was, and the fuel sender is next up for relocation. That requires no fab, so I'm hoping I can move it along. Thankfully, the tig welder was submerged, but dried out just fine. Today was the first time it was used since the flood. I'll be down there later this week to continue on with this little project.
  37. 1 point
    Wayno, your problem with the Tiny Tach is the first I've heard of any. I will be watching mine to see if it does that. So far I have had no known problems with mine. I like that it is digital and shows RPM for every 10 RPM of the motor, which is more accurate than any analog tach I've used. Trying to figure accuracy on an analog tach for a needle that is moving between marks, often without numbers, on a background that doesn't have enough numbered divisions isn't accurate. Having to glue magnets on something that spins is something I've been very leery of, centrifugal force can throw things off with a great deal of force. I have not trusted that anything glued on will stay on for a long time, so it is good to hear about your long term success. The turbo exhaust manifold you speak of, is it a stock item, or did you have to make it? My stock exhaust manifold dumps out extremely close to the emergency brake cable and I am concerned that it is so close that exhaust heat will cause problems. I figured I was going to have to make a manifold for the turbo to get heat away from the e-brake cable, and of course to properly set up the turbo. I'm hoping to set up the exhaust so that it won't take much to change from NA to turbo.
  38. 1 point
    You can post a quote within a quote by 'saving' a quote then move inside the quote you are displaying and hit the quote 1 post button lower right and it inserts it. then hit delete to remove a quoted post, normally I would just left click and hold and turn everything blue that I wanted to delete, but that doesn't work here anymore.
  39. 1 point
    Thanks Mike, I edited the post using the last suggestion and it worked, I would never have figured that out on my own, I seen that box but never would hve thought to click on it and then hit delete to remove a quoted post, normally I would just left click and hold and turn everything blue that I wanted to delete, but that doesn't work here anymore.
  40. 1 point
    1/ Try hitting the reply button and scroll down several lines using the enter button then put a period in and add your quote one line above it. This will leave room at the top to add your own text before it. 2/ Or hit the + sign to the left of the quote. This will hold the quote while you add your text. Then hit the 'quote one post' flagged in the lower right. You can stack several quotes together with this. 3/ Start with your text then find the quote you want and click it. Not very good if on the previous page. Place your icon above the quote on the far left and a flashing square with a cross inside it will appear. Place your icon on it and hit your delete button to remove the quote
  41. 1 point
    I have owned 2 tinytachs for my diesel engines, the first one worked great, the second one is a piece of shit and they(the tinytach place that sold it to me) do not want to fix the issue, I talked to them on the phone and they sent the piece that connects onto the injection line but that is not the issue, it's the main assembly that is not working correctly and they would not send another one of them to me, when I let off the pedal instead of the tach showing the lowering RPMs, it shuts down and goes to total hours till I step on the pedal again and start picking up speed, it is very annoying. My 521 kingcab diesel has an Isspro tach, it is the type that I had to glue magnets to the harmonic balancer/front pulley and then mount a sensor, that tach is great, it has been on that engine for years without a hiccup. My Autometer EGT gauges work great also, never had an issue with any of them, but they are hard to get parts for, I tried to get another piece to weld into the exhaust manifold when I changed exhaust manifolds(when I put the turbo exhaust manifold on), in the end I had to make my own bung/mount for the sensor. Yes the EGT temps rise fast, when I first got the 720 turbodiesel in the Volvo I could not even get up to 50mph without the EGTs going over 1400 degrees, that engine setup was a failure, but if you talk to the guy that sold it to me he would say I drove it wrong, I finally figured it out a year later after trying 3 different injection pumps, I went back to the injection pump it had on it and I went a different direction, I plumbed it differently, I went to a draw thru, it ran great except for the vacuum issue/oil sucking thru the seal issue when I let off the pedal, I kinda fixed that issue and then seen that ad for a SD22 turbodiesel engine for sale on Craigslist which turned out to be that knuclehead guy on the Nissan Diesel forums, I talked to him and figured out what my lean running issue was on the draw thru setup I had, after talking to that guy I thought about everything differently, I plumbed the 521 kingcab turbodiesel as a blow thru and piped it differently than I ever had before and it worked great, so then I took the 720 apart and copied what I had done to the 521 kingcab and it worked exactly the same, what I did was repeatable, that is when I started telling everyone how to do it, and it is so simple, only one vacuum line changes from the stock configuration. What is great is that the EGTs do not run very hot on my 521 kingcab turbodiesel engine, but that may have something to do with what I have for componets, and where I put the EGT sensor, I messed up and put it right after the turbocharger when it should be before the turbocharger, but my 720 runs way cooler than it did before also and it has the sensor in the proper spot. The 720 was/is my test rig, I ran it with and without the innercooler and it maybe made a 100 degree difference, so my 521 kingcab has no innercooler, until I take my intake system apart again on my 521 kingcab I will live with the EGT sensor mounted where it is, the engine runs great, it runs better than the 720 engine, but that engine is set up way differently and has mods I am so happy that my 521 kingcab does not have. I am not a search the internet guy to figure out my issues normally, I figure them out by asking other diesel guys questions, or I just keep trying different things till it works, nothing I have done is original except how I may do it. I normally am somewhere around 1700 to 2400rpms around town(city driving), but on the freeway in 5th gear I am between 2500 and 3000rpms, the 521 turbo really kicks in above 2000rpms, while the 720 power kicks in way below 2000rpms, but that engine does not operate properly above 2200rpms, well that is not true, I have to have the boost set at 7psi because if it is set at 15psi that is what I have on the freeway as a larger compressor vane/blade was installed in the turbocharger, it is pumping air into the engine at all times, even at an idle, and it spins up fast, I would never suggest doing that, the injection pump was turned up also, my 521 kingcab runs so much better without either of them mods.
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    A turbo would reduce the engine having to work as hard to suck air in. Maybe the diesel mixture is too rich to begin with and extra air would be 'free' power with less soot out the exhaust?
  44. 1 point
    Getting better mileage with a turbo is something I've heard about, but never have known someone who actually did better. This is real good news and gives me a lot more hope that a turbo will do more than increase HP. The 620 is a little bit lighter than a 720, and I am hoping that will be in my favor also. An SD-22 in an NA mode I'm hoping will be only for a short time, but money for a complete turbo set up will dictate. Depends on what I find and the cost. I currently have a large diesel pickup, but it doesn't do much for me mileage wise and I can't afford to drive it very much. The best mileage I ever got with it is 15.5 MPG, and that was on a summer time freeway run keeping it at 2KRPM (it is really disconcerting to have an 18 wheeler pass me). It is about three times bigger, including the motor, than the SD-22 and the mileage shows it, but it is a real workhorse and I love it. I just wish it got better MPG. I'm not any good with electronics, but given a bit of time and a good schematic I can do OK with wiring. I have plans for an alarm for the oil pressure that will let me know if the pressure drops too low. I would have to go back and re-read my notes to know for sure what oil pressure the alarm goes off at, but my memory tells me it is around 5 to 7 lbs. Not as good as the DPC as it relies on the driver knowing what the alarm is for and shutting things down ASAP (or faster), but less expensive to start with. The IP controller (looks like a wiper motor) is 12V DC isn't it? Anyway, 12V is what I've used so far and it seems to be OK and I've got the controller figured out with a special ignition switch. I also successfully tried about 9V through a resistor like is found on older vehicles. I plan to get EGT and boost gauges. I put five Glowshift gauges in my Chevy pickup, and only the boost (mechanical) is still working. I used Glowshift because of price, but I will NEVER recommend them for anything now. What brand would you recommended as being the most reliable?
  45. 1 point
    I am getting better fuel mileage with the turbocharger, keep in mind that before the turbo I was getting around 25 in the city and 27 on the freeway as I was going 70/75mph and was almost floored all the time, now I do not know what I am getting in the city as I have not checked, but on the freeway on my first trip with the turbo I got almost 31mpg going 75/80mph, but the big difference was I was not frustrated when I came to a hill anymore, it just went right up the hill without me changing anything, my foot stayed in the exact same spot, when I hit the hill the boost went up a little(7/8psi), and the EGTs went up a little, maybe 900 degrees at the top of the hill, but my foot did not move, no downshifting, no having to floor it, up the hill it went, and strangely it went down the other side of the hill exactly the same way, I did not move my foot, but the boost went down to 3/4psi and so did the EGTs. Before the turbocharger was installed I would be floored in 4th gear on that hill trying to keep it at 60mph and my EGTs would be at 1400 degrees and I would be letting off the pedal trying not to go over 1400 degrees. I have said this before and will say it again, I will never drive a diesel without a turbocharger again except maybe around town, on the freeway it will have a turbocharger or I will drive something else, the SD22 is even worse on the freeway, my first SD22 powered 720 would barely do 70mph on the freeway and when I came to a hill I would sometimes be in 3rd gear depending on how steep the hill was, I remember being in 2nd gear on freeway 101(coast freeway) in northern CA one time on a steep hill. I have never turbocharged an SD22(3 main bearings), you need a boost gauge and an EGT gauge, these are must have things, you will likely blow it up eventually without them. The DPC module(black box) is a complicated device, it controls a lot of things, even oil pressure on start up, the engine will not start without oil pressure unless one removes the wire from the oil sender/sensor, the DPC module controls start, run, off positions on the IP controller, if you are smart about electronics you might be able to set something up that will work without smoking the IP controller, but I have never heard of anyone succeeding, I have heard of a guy that used solenoids for the off and run positions. The guy that had the Volvo with the SD25 turbodiesel engine in it that ran so hot(EGTs) when I drove it I stopped driving it for a year, that guy claimed to have got 48mpg on the freeway, but he drove 50/55mph and he used that choke cable to lean out the injection pump by pulling on it till the engine would barely run on that much fuel, it could not get hot as it was hardly getting any fuel, when I test drove the Volvo before buying it it ran hot, and he told me I drove it wrong when we finished the test drive, I fixed it so I could drive it and it has power though out it's whole operating envelope without running hot.
  46. 1 point
    Got out to the garage for a bit last night. Started by getting my Dexter on to help keep dust localized to the work area. Got the passenger seat riser out although I didn't take any pics of that. I did however play with some lighting for a night sky effect. Passenger. driver Also got to playing around with the old HF pressure pot blaster and came to two conclusions. First being that my compressor will in fact keep up with my use of it and second being that some modification will be required to get it to actually feed worth a damn. When you can get it to feed it does the job.
  47. 1 point
    I haven't seen him post here in a while, not saying he wont respond but just incase another way is possibly through ebay..... he sells there under the name Beebani1028....
  48. 1 point
    Welcome, sounds like you are well into your project. You can PM BEEBANI here, his user name is all caps.
  49. 1 point
    Then this found its way back into my life for an ecu install.
  50. 1 point
    I know, I know. I've technically owned this one for close to 15 years though, so couldn't really let it go without fixing what my neglect caused. Still a lot less rot than was ok my daily when I bought it. I have managed to strip the rest of the interior and trunk other than the passenger door where the window winder is being fickle about coming off. Should have some parts starting to roll in over the next couple of weeks.
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