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Showing content with the highest reputation on 12/20/2018 in all areas

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    Since when have truckers become athletes???
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    Contact BlueBird_Jimmy on IG, he just had a bluebird imported from Japan and it'll be fresh in his memory.
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    In my opinion it should be left unlocked till after the event replacing it, my thinking is that some that go to Canby do not even come to Ratsun until May when they start checking this thread and the DatsunNW thread, since so little was published about Canby being cancelled until recently, these folks will know what is going on with this thread if it is not locked, it will end up 5 pages buried if locked and likely the DatsunsNW thread will end up buried anyway.
  12. 2 points
    I share my towel and soap. Who’s with me.
  13. 1 point
    I've been lurking and reading a lot for several months now, so I finally signed up. I have my Dad's 1973 620 that he bought new, manufactured in 7/73. After he passed away I talked Mom into keeping it and having it available for my brothers to use when they needed it. That worked for several years, then something happened to the motor. It had over 200K on the motor and I was never interested in trying to find out what happened. To me it acted like it jumped time (spendy?), so it sat for several years. About 3 years ago I found a 1981 SD-22 (diesel), with transmission and radiator. If I read the very faint markings from the wrecking yard the motor has just over 80K miles on it. My plan was to put this SD-22 into the 1973 620. I have had the motor running, with good oil pressure, while setting on the floor, so I am very slowly moving ahead with the project. I am on a limited income so it has taken me this long to get the motor and transmission temporarily set in place. Summer time I get very little done as I spend most of my time in the garden and on the property, so most of my available time is in the winter. I still have a ways to complete the project, and as time goes on and reading continues I seem to add to what I want to do. What I would like to do is: change king pins to ball joints, change to disc brakes in the front (still thinking/reading about rear discs), change one piece steering column to collapsing column, add AC, maybe increase alternator amp output (different alternator which would require changing vacuum source, and maybe other changes). I have more possible changes, but they require more money, so they most likely will go on the back burner. What I need now is to make contact with Beebani since he lives so close to me. I have watched a bunch of Mike Klotz's (blue hands) videos. I would like to send out a great big thank you to him for the videos as they have helped me out considerably. Well, back to perusing the old threads.
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    Well damn. I wonder if it’ll be the same for these guys wanting to come to the show from japan then drive the coast line to LA then ship back home.
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    Or match up the thread pitch and just use an "exhaust manifold nut" Essentially using it as an extreme duty nyloc https://www.fastenal.com/product/fasteners/nuts/lock-nuts/600081?categoryId=600081&level=3&isExpanded=true&productFamilyId=26216 https://www.fastenal.com/product/fasteners/nuts/lock-nuts/600081?categoryId=600081&level=3&isExpanded=true&productFamilyId=26217
  21. 1 point
    Good job I am doing this as well. Both back and front with the japanese style skinny front markers.
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    So you live in the Puget Sound area of the State of WA, you have a green 1971 Datsun 521 with what might be a 720 suspension in the front, the issue is that one cannot bolt a 720 suspension onto a 521 without modifing things, so what we are trying to figure out is how it was done, it would help of we knew if it had ball joints, since you said it has a 720 suspension and not 720 brakes I will guess yes, so what I would ask you is what does the upper control arm look like, does it look like the control arm in the photo below? Or does the upper control arm look like a bunch of turn buckles were put together with heim joints?
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    In regards to showers, the ones on the pilot truck stop are open to public and cost $15, do not go during morning nor evenings unless you're ok with long lines, they do move quickly and they provide soap and 3 or 4 towels.
  24. 1 point
    After looking back and re-reading what I wrote I should have clarified what I was talking about. I think we are talking about two different subjects. I'm talking about the intake up to the head and the exhaust after the turbo, and you are talking about the turbo itself. Both are very important to a properly running diesel. I understand that properly sizing a turbo for a diesel motor is very important to what a certain size motor can put out, and that too big a turbo for the motor size can be a problem to the way a diesel can run. Also, a larger intake and exhaust is important as you have to supply the motor with plenty of air for the fuel injected, and you have to quickly remove the spent fuel after the turbo has done it's thing (to allow the turbo unimpeded flow of exhaust gasses). Right now the motor will need to be pulled again as I don't have the flywheel or clutch in place. When I pull the motor to put the flywheel and clutch in I'll have to pull the pan so I can see how many mains it has. In the SD-22 you rebuilt do you remember what the bottom side of the pistons looked like? I can send you a picture of them when I pull the motor. I should also be able to see if it has squirters. We are looking at the gasket sealing situation from two different aspects. You are wanting to make sure the gasket never leaks after the sealer dries. And I'm looking at things as if I may need to remove things later and will want to re-use the gasket. I can understand where you are coming from as I also don't like leaks. I will need to consider where the item is (like the pan) and how much is involved with cleaning the gasket surface on the block.
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    Look close and you can see the window vents as well.They were not the best so well powder coated them black.
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    Untitled by raymond medeiros, on Flickr Untitled by raymond medeiros, on Flickr Untitled by raymond medeiros, on Flickr I love it. Cargo windows are tricky so will take my time on those.
  31. 1 point
    I do not believe you are getting what I am saying about the turbo size, if it is too big it will not spin up the turbo at all, at least not fast enough to build any boost, the exhaust air just goes thru the vane fins instead of forcing it to spin faster and faster. If the turbo is small the exhaust exhaust air is forced thru the smaller exhaust hole much faster and that makes the exhaust vane spin faster therefore making the intake vane spin faster building a lot of boost, and the exhaust air is FORCED thru that smaller hole/vane. A larger turbo the exhaust air is not forced thru, most the exhaust air goes thru the vanes at an idle, and when one opens the throttle up it struggles to get that exhaust vane spinning, now if it struggles to get that vane spinning, the more PSI on the intake/commpressor side that is built, the harder it is to turn the exhaust vane, the more the exhaust air goes thru the vanes instead of spinning it, I believe that is why a lot of them threads I have read had unhappy endings, they could not build any significant boost because the turbo was too big and would not build any significant PSI/boost. On my 720 turbodiesel with the modified/larger intake vane I had enough boost when it was setup as a draw thru, but set up that way it ran lean, I ran into a wall at around 60/63mph because it was not getting enough fuel and the EGTs were as high as they were going to get(not very high), after talking to that guy I figured out how to make it richer by adding a valve and there was no more wall, I almost did a 100mph on that first test drive, but draw thru systems have other more critical issues with these inline injection pumps and the turbo types I have/use, but blow thru systems on these engines/injection pumps/turbos I use have way less issues, as a draw thru I could never let anyone else drive the vehicle, while as a blow thru I can let others drive it, but I talked about the turbo vacuum issue stuff in my threads and what I did to try and minimize the issue. Too big of a turbo will not increase air flow in my opinion, but it will not decrease air flow either, I suspect it will drive like there is no turbo at all, in this situation bigger is not better. It sounds like you might have one of the rare 5 main SD22 engines, I have never seen one before, I wonder what type of pistons it has, I wonder if it has turbo pistons. I use sealer on all sides of gaskets on the oilpan, that is something I do not want leaking as it is a pain to change it out with the engine in the truck, also it is very awkward laying on ones back under the truck dealing with it, I do not recall what type of gaskets I have used on my diesel engines, the SD22 I rebuilt has a cork one as I just now looked at it, it also appears to be leaking, it likely has under 500 miles on it. The pulling the 720 diesel truck to start it is not my experience, someone on here talked about pulling the truck to start it and I suggested that the rear wheels just skidded down the road and that is what happened, but in the end I believe they were able to get it started in second gear dragging it down the road.
  32. 1 point
    Got new parts, such as these fender covers: And started making the plenum from aluminium: Also bought riveting pliers or what they're called: Inserted new M6 threaded nuts to the fender arc because the old ones were worn out: Also bought a lot of brake stuff, started routing the brake lines to the front brakes. I drilled a 10mm deep hole to the small bump on the back of the strut and threaded a M6 to it so I have a mounting point for the T-piece: Wheel not in place yet, but just a broader view of the whole setup:
  33. 1 point
    Untitled by raymond medeiros, on Flickr Now I have both sides.
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    I believe all the exhaust manifolds are the same, but the intakes are different, the intake holes in the head are bigger on the SD25 and so is the throttlebody/carb looking thing. I bought gaskets for my diesel engines a long time ago, one set was from Nissan dealership, for the most part every time I have removed my intake/exhaust manifolds I have re-used the old gasket, they sell diesel gasket kits on ebay, but the headgaskets need to be bought from Nissan, as they are this sandwich metal type gasket, auto parts stores sell genaric gaskets that do not look anything like Nissan diesel headgaskets. When I rebuilt that SD22 I have, the kit came with a gasket set, oil pump, it had everything, they do not sell what I bought anymore. I have a lot of gasket sets in my gasket storage tub and I have a shed full of tubs, I do not recall where I bought most of them anymore, ebay, dealership, Baxters when they were still worth going to, I have not bought any diesel gaskets in years. I do not know where that turbochager is that I took off the modified exhaust manifold, I do know it had the wastegate wired shut, the water cooling part was not connected either, I do not think they could build any reasonable amount of boost, but there could be a lot of reasons for that, too big of turbo, too many leaks in the system which it looked like it had leaks as electrical tape had been used at some of the joints. All my turbos have water cooling, don't know a lot about this subject. When I had that engine running with the turbo on a engine stand I could not hear the turbo spinning, while I can hear it spin on both my 720 and 521 diesels, I believe the turbo was too big and could only build 2/3psi boost, while mine have both seen 20psi at least once before I adjusted them to not go over 15psi, like I have said, I would try to find a good used 1600cc gas engine turbocharger for the SD22, I believe I used an 1800cc turbo from a AWD Subie for my SD25 and I am very happy with the result, the 720 with an SD25 has what I believe is a 1600cc gas turbo, it is smaller that the Subie turbo and the turbocharger that I took off was even bigger than the Subie turbo, that I know for sure. I have had no issues with the glow plugs wearing down the battery, I have had an auto parts store sell me the wrong glow plugs and the ends of the glow plugs blew up like balloons, I was so lucky to get them out of the holes they were mounted in, I had to use vice grips to pry and twist them out, I was so lucky that day to get them out of the head, but the engine started the best it ever had that one time, but the glow plugs never worked again as they got burnt out the first use, Baxters was very unhappy when I btought them back.
  35. 1 point
    Another question I just now thought of. Are the exhaust manifolds for the SD-22 and 25 the same size?
  36. 1 point
    I'm reading the thread on that link you gave, and have some questions (if I don't ask now my memory get lost and forgetfulness will take over). Where did you get the manifold gasket from, local parts store or dealer? The dealer in Albany closed up several years ago so now the closest dealer to me is about 25 miles away. And just out of curiosity, do you remember how big the turbo that you took off was? I've never run into a turbo that needed any water to help cool it as my Chevy 6.5 doesn't have any water cooling passages for the turbo. Everything I read about the Chevy turbo says that water cooling isn't needed, but I'm not highly experienced with turbos either.
  37. 1 point
    Here is a photo of the tach I have in my 521 kingcab, I think it is awesome, it is very easy to see.
  38. 1 point
    No my turbocharger manifold is not stock, it is a stock manifold that has been modified as you can see in the photos below. In the center of the photo above where the bump is is where I should have the EGT sensor, but it is located behind the turbo in the photo below. You can see in the first photo how big the hole is in the manifold and how the stock exit is welded closed, this made it possible to route the turbo exhaust pipe out the stock location, in the photo below you can see the adapter I made to mount the Subie turbo to that giant hole in the manifold, notice how small the hole is, originally I thought this step down into a small hole might effect the turbo performance, but it works great, who knows it might work better if the hole in the exhaust manifold was the same size as the hole in the adapter, but I do not care anymore, it runs great. The adapter above is made from a flat plate matching the exhaust manifold and the mount piece off the Subie exhaust going to the turbo, when I bought the turbo from that wrecking yard I got everything connected to the turbo, the complete exhaust from the engine on both ends although i made the turbo exhaust from the turbo flange back as the stock head pipe was pointed the wrong direction coming out of the turbo. I suspect that the diesel engine just doesn't move enough air to have the step down into a smaller hole effect the performance, if it was a gas engine I suspect I would have issues. Here is the engine in my 521 kingcab. There is not a lot of room anywhere in the engine compartment, but the hood closes. The brake master is real close to the turbo, but I did make a heat shield, I also had to turn the front brake reservoir sideways as there was no room for it in the stock position. Here is a link to the thread I have about this turbo build. https://www.nwdatsuns.com/viewtopic.php?f=13&t=1302 And here is a link to the 720 thread about all the stuff I tried to get the engine to run properly the way I drive. https://www.nwdatsuns.com/viewtopic.php?f=15&p=69188#p69188
  39. 1 point
    Wayno, your problem with the Tiny Tach is the first I've heard of any. I will be watching mine to see if it does that. So far I have had no known problems with mine. I like that it is digital and shows RPM for every 10 RPM of the motor, which is more accurate than any analog tach I've used. Trying to figure accuracy on an analog tach for a needle that is moving between marks, often without numbers, on a background that doesn't have enough numbered divisions isn't accurate. Having to glue magnets on something that spins is something I've been very leery of, centrifugal force can throw things off with a great deal of force. I have not trusted that anything glued on will stay on for a long time, so it is good to hear about your long term success. The turbo exhaust manifold you speak of, is it a stock item, or did you have to make it? My stock exhaust manifold dumps out extremely close to the emergency brake cable and I am concerned that it is so close that exhaust heat will cause problems. I figured I was going to have to make a manifold for the turbo to get heat away from the e-brake cable, and of course to properly set up the turbo. I'm hoping to set up the exhaust so that it won't take much to change from NA to turbo.
  40. 1 point
    You can post a quote within a quote by 'saving' a quote then move inside the quote you are displaying and hit the quote 1 post button lower right and it inserts it. then hit delete to remove a quoted post, normally I would just left click and hold and turn everything blue that I wanted to delete, but that doesn't work here anymore.
  41. 1 point
    Thank you wayno. I think it is safe to assume that Autometer has worked without any malfunctions for you. The EGT gauge I had in my big pickup was a real eye opener while it worked. The EGT temps went up really fast, and could under the right conditions come down almost as fast. The big thing I remember was how really really fast they could go up. I have a Tiny Tach in my Chevy pickup. For the 6.2 and 6.5 2000 RPM seems to be the best, and I'm assuming the SD 22 is the same. As far as I'm concerned it is people like you wayno that I can learn a lot from. First hand experience is the best teacher, and the next best comes from those who share their experiences.
  42. 1 point
    Fuuuuuuuuck I might not want to work the whole Christmas break than
  43. 1 point
    I forgot about this thread, I have extra wiring harnesses for sale if you are interested in having it work the way it is supposed to when it came from the factory, PM me about that. I myself use them in all my builds, I guess I understand them and how to modify them for use in my 521 builds, my last build(the work truck conversion) I even figured out the dash lights so they come on with the switch as intended and they are dimmable also, but I have never done a 620 instrument cluster either, they may be different/easier. The SD25 diesel engine I have in my 521 kingcab came out of a 620 pickup, I never seen it in that pickup but two crate engines were bought, one went in that 620 and the other went into a 521, the 620 truck rusted away and was scrapped by his family after the owner died, the 521 was crushed when the pole building it was in collapsed from snow buildup on the roof, I was told it was being rebuilt and I have no idea if that diesel engine was turbocharged like mine was even though I believe it was a failure as the boost release/bypass was wired shut, it had a rather large turbocharger, but I never tried to make it work, I went with the mid 90s 1800cc Subie turbocharger I picked up years before, the only thing I can say is I wish I had done the turbocharger thing years before, I would never daily drive one without one now, it would drive me crazy. There was this guy on the Nissan Diesel forums called Knucklehead I believe that had the "turbo the bomb" thread as I recall, he actually is the first one to succeed in turbocharging an SD22 engine as far as I know(his thread does not have a happy ending), when I talked to him on the phone his explanation was way too complicated for me with a couple expensive devices, but he said something that gave me an idea about how to get more power out of my draw thru setup as 65mph was about it for that way but it got up to 65mph fast, I put in a valve with a line coming from a boost source, I piped that line from the other side of the valve to the vacuum line going from the venturi to to the injection pump, what this did was move the injection pump in a controlled way to a richer position, I took the truck for a drive after making my modification and I likely did a 100mph, I do not know/remember how I made the jump from this semi successful draw thru setup with a vacuum issue to a completely successful blow thru setup like I have now, but that conversation with that guy made me think about the subject in a different way.
  44. 1 point
    Thank you wayno for chiming in. I was hoping for your input. I did meet you at Canby in 2017, and you drove your extra cab pickup there. Yes, I'm aware of the low HP that the SD-22 has, and also aware that it can be difficult to turbo, although you are the first one I have read about that has successfully turboed them. I do have your explanation printed off about how you did it. Just as a side note, I do have 2 notebooks full of stuff that I printed off over the last three years about the SD-22 and the 620. Because of what I have found online I have been able to understand the IP and get the motor started.I don't have the wire loom and portion of the operating circuit that is in it, although I do have the injection pump controller (looks like a wiper motor). I found an ignition switch that I hope will work. From the off position it has one spring loaded position to the left, which I plan to use for shutting the IP off. To the right of the off position is the run position, and the spring loaded start position. I'm not sure about the over-inject yet (equivalent to a choke in a gasser), but I'm hoping that I can get the over-inject to work with the start position in conjunction with the starter. The glow plugs are going to be hooked up to a relay and a spring loaded switch, like a starter button switch. There is a lot more that I have found/learned about the SD-22, but it is very late for me (early to bed and early to rise) and I need to get to bed.
  45. 1 point
    One thing you need to understand is that the SD22 diesel engine only has 61hp new from the factory. It does get good mileage, I have one in my 521 kingcab, but that is sitting on a diesel frame/chassis and I used the diesel wiring harness.
  46. 1 point
    Thank you both for the information. I like to plan ahead, so now to make connection with BEEBANI and ask him several questions about his products.
  47. 1 point
    I think what you're seeing there is some pitting in an area where 3 panels join. No fracturing that I've seen so far. Well, I got the driver's seat mount out and I'm thinking I should abandon the idea of getting away without doing floor pans. Not that these aren't salvageable, but good quality replacements are so cheap that it just isn't worth the effort of making patch panels. Some more fine work from a past life. I was gonna pull the passenger side mount out too, but was laughing too hard and called it a night.
  48. 1 point
    A couple of off topic photos. My 521 that I built when I was in high school and college.
  49. 1 point
    I thought you said no more rusty projects... ?
  50. 1 point
    It is going to be something alright. Starting off pretty slow on this one, but have managed to get the interior stripped minus doors and headliner. Floors are pretty solid, a few more pin holes than I would like, but still the most rust free project I've had in a while. With the front glass out and seal mostly cleaned out I got a look at the root around the rim. It ain't pretty, but it isn't through either. Might be able to get away without having to cut and patch it.
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