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Showing content with the highest reputation on 12/20/2018 in all areas

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    Since when have truckers become athletes???
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    In my opinion it should be left unlocked till after the event replacing it, my thinking is that some that go to Canby do not even come to Ratsun until May when they start checking this thread and the DatsunNW thread, since so little was published about Canby being cancelled until recently, these folks will know what is going on with this thread if it is not locked, it will end up 5 pages buried if locked and likely the DatsunsNW thread will end up buried anyway.
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    I share my towel and soap. Who’s with me.
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    I've been lurking and reading a lot for several months now, so I finally signed up. I have my Dad's 1973 620 that he bought new, manufactured in 7/73. After he passed away I talked Mom into keeping it and having it available for my brothers to use when they needed it. That worked for several years, then something happened to the motor. It had over 200K on the motor and I was never interested in trying to find out what happened. To me it acted like it jumped time (spendy?), so it sat for several years. About 3 years ago I found a 1981 SD-22 (diesel), with transmission and radiator. If I read the very faint markings from the wrecking yard the motor has just over 80K miles on it. My plan was to put this SD-22 into the 1973 620. I have had the motor running, with good oil pressure, while setting on the floor, so I am very slowly moving ahead with the project. I am on a limited income so it has taken me this long to get the motor and transmission temporarily set in place. Summer time I get very little done as I spend most of my time in the garden and on the property, so most of my available time is in the winter. I still have a ways to complete the project, and as time goes on and reading continues I seem to add to what I want to do. What I would like to do is: change king pins to ball joints, change to disc brakes in the front (still thinking/reading about rear discs), change one piece steering column to collapsing column, add AC, maybe increase alternator amp output (different alternator which would require changing vacuum source, and maybe other changes). I have more possible changes, but they require more money, so they most likely will go on the back burner. What I need now is to make contact with Beebani since he lives so close to me. I have watched a bunch of Mike Klotz's (blue hands) videos. I would like to send out a great big thank you to him for the videos as they have helped me out considerably. Well, back to perusing the old threads.
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    attachment.php?attachmentid=3325229&d=15 .
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    You guys will probably like this. A friends LS 350Z race car that he just finished. _DSC7487.jpg by Matt Yates, on Flickr Z Nationals / ZCON 2018 by Matt Yates, on Flickr Z Nationals / ZCON 2018 by Matt Yates, on Flickr Z Nationals / ZCON 2018 by Matt Yates, on Flickr Z Nationals / ZCON 2018 by Matt Yates, on Flickr Z Nationals / ZCON 2018 by Matt Yates, on Flickr Z Nationals / ZCON 2018 by Matt Yates, on Flickr Z Nationals / ZCON 2018 by Matt Yates, on Flickr Z Nationals / ZCON 2018 by Matt Yates, on Flickr
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    Well damn. I wonder if it’ll be the same for these guys wanting to come to the show from japan then drive the coast line to LA then ship back home.
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    Well customs is going have something to say about it, they will want customs fees, import fees, taxes, it can go on and on if you let it, I imported an engine from Australia and everyone and their brother will want money from you, finally in the end I told them that I paid to have the engine delivered to Portland in advance, and I was not going to pay any more and they could keep the engine, well it made it to Portland and I had to pay customs and a forklift fee at the warehouse, and I did not pay any of those people sending me bills and calling me on the phone which totalled hundreds of dollars. Later I searched my own name and found that someone had called me an import genis, I have no idea who it was, and I never received a letter from debt collectors or anyone else for that matter about that engine after taking it into possession after going to the customs office. Keep in mind that I was unable to see the engine before paying customs, I had no idea where it was till I paid them, then they told me where to go to get it.
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    Oh, I see. Longer bolts & nylocks? Fold over locking plates like you suggested, across two bolts? Pay $1500(?) for the ones from Troy Ermish that don't use adapters?
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    Only acceptable if it's your Ex's place.
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    There's nothing to compare with taking a shit in the forest.Nothing. It's primal. Grunt and make all the noise as you can, it makes the process easier, rejoice, this is the way it was meant to be done. Beginners, hang onto a tree or branch. Just scuff the undergrowth aside and cover back up. Always have TP with you.
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    So you live in the Puget Sound area of the State of WA, you have a green 1971 Datsun 521 with what might be a 720 suspension in the front, the issue is that one cannot bolt a 720 suspension onto a 521 without modifing things, so what we are trying to figure out is how it was done, it would help of we knew if it had ball joints, since you said it has a 720 suspension and not 720 brakes I will guess yes, so what I would ask you is what does the upper control arm look like, does it look like the control arm in the photo below? Or does the upper control arm look like a bunch of turn buckles were put together with heim joints?
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    If you look at the photo of the adapter I made to mount the turbo to the exhaust manifold in a post earlier in this thread you see that the hole is not that large, that hole is not even close to the intake hole in my throttle body/carb looking thing on my intake manifold and my engine runs great. Another thing to note, when I finally got around to looking at that home made exhaust manifold that sat around for years on a shelf because I never thought it would work properly, well when I removed that adapter it had on it for that larger turbo it had on it and seen that giant hole I thought, "that might work", the reason for tearing it apart was to scrap it, as I have a lot of stuff around here, well I changed my mind right then and there, I thought give it a shot. Keep in mind that the way that exhaust manifold was made with the hole cut in the side and the stock exhaust exit location welded up I thought there was no way the exhaust flow was going to flow efficiently moving backwards in 75 percent of that exhaust manifold, but it made it a lot easier to pipe the turbo exhaust out thru the stock exhaust exit area, I actually planned to make a "U" pipe to mount my turbo like it is mounted in the 720, but when I seen that giant hole in that home made exhaust manifold I changed my mind. My thinking comes back to the same thing every time, diesel engines do not move air like gas engines do, they operate at much lower RPMs and move less air. I believe when I bought my first SD25 out of the side of that guys yard(sitting against the side of the house in mud) that it had a SD22 intake manifold on it as it used the SD22 intake piping/sheet metal piping, I always wondered if it had an SD22 injection pump also, it ran fine that way for years, but when I put the turbo on it I took the intake manifold off another SD25 I had(was over heated) and put it on the engine in my 521 truck, if I were to guess right now with all the stuff I have done of the years I would say that what you have on your SD22 intake manifold will work fine, I suppose if you were racing it or doing burnout contests like them guys do in Australia a larger intake manifold might make a slight difference, but for normal driving I think what you have will be fine. My 521 has a two and a half inch exhaust pipe from the turbo back with no muffler, the pipe goes all the way to the rear of the truck. My 720 has a 3 inch pipe from the turbo back with no muffler, it exits to the side at the ground just in front of rear wheels. OK, my intakes are weird, even though the turbos are different sizes, both have around one and a half inch pipes coming off the turbos, but the 521 has no adapter, the tubing is mounted directly onto the DSD25 throttle body/carb looking thing, my 720 has an adapter on top of the throttle body/carb looking thing, that adapter allows me to use the SD22 intake piping from there to the airfilter canister, that adapter has the same size hole as an SD22 throttle body/carb looking thing hole, so basically I have an SD22 intake on my SD25 powered 720, now I never really gave that much thought till now, I have no idea if that plays any part in why my 720 doesn't really drive well on the freeway, I can drive nearly 100mph but my foot is buried in the pedal, but I believe that the modified intake vane on the turbo is the biggest issue at the RPMs I drive on the freeway, I have too much boost! I have another turbocharger I can use, but I would have to make a new head pipe and since I hardly ever drive that truck I do not see the point right now. The piston squirters/oil jets are connected to the block and are pointed up at the back side of the pistons, as far as I know all the SD series diesel engines have them, in the photo below you can barely see the oil jets in this 3 main bearing engine.
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    In regards to showers, the ones on the pilot truck stop are open to public and cost $15, do not go during morning nor evenings unless you're ok with long lines, they do move quickly and they provide soap and 3 or 4 towels.
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    After looking back and re-reading what I wrote I should have clarified what I was talking about. I think we are talking about two different subjects. I'm talking about the intake up to the head and the exhaust after the turbo, and you are talking about the turbo itself. Both are very important to a properly running diesel. I understand that properly sizing a turbo for a diesel motor is very important to what a certain size motor can put out, and that too big a turbo for the motor size can be a problem to the way a diesel can run. Also, a larger intake and exhaust is important as you have to supply the motor with plenty of air for the fuel injected, and you have to quickly remove the spent fuel after the turbo has done it's thing (to allow the turbo unimpeded flow of exhaust gasses). Right now the motor will need to be pulled again as I don't have the flywheel or clutch in place. When I pull the motor to put the flywheel and clutch in I'll have to pull the pan so I can see how many mains it has. In the SD-22 you rebuilt do you remember what the bottom side of the pistons looked like? I can send you a picture of them when I pull the motor. I should also be able to see if it has squirters. We are looking at the gasket sealing situation from two different aspects. You are wanting to make sure the gasket never leaks after the sealer dries. And I'm looking at things as if I may need to remove things later and will want to re-use the gasket. I can understand where you are coming from as I also don't like leaks. I will need to consider where the item is (like the pan) and how much is involved with cleaning the gasket surface on the block.
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    You will enjoy this then here is the listing pics Thanks, I have been lurking for some time, saving lots of pictures and chomping at the bit for a while to get started on my own project. Progress over the past 2 weeks since picking it up: factory mirror is cracked down the middle so I removed it and went hotrod (keeping all factory pieces for now) I have new window gaskets already as she leaks badly on the passenger side - so I am also looking into doing my own door panels at some point. (CRX seats included) Got some ellipsoid headlights. And my Brother is teaching me to weld Fortunately he does metal fab for a living and can clean up my work: She's developed a bit of a staring prob so I am going to have to dig into the electrical with him and I'm weighing just purchasing a kwikwire 14 circut harness and not worrying about the gremlins. Sticker for the namesake:
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    I do not believe you are getting what I am saying about the turbo size, if it is too big it will not spin up the turbo at all, at least not fast enough to build any boost, the exhaust air just goes thru the vane fins instead of forcing it to spin faster and faster. If the turbo is small the exhaust exhaust air is forced thru the smaller exhaust hole much faster and that makes the exhaust vane spin faster therefore making the intake vane spin faster building a lot of boost, and the exhaust air is FORCED thru that smaller hole/vane. A larger turbo the exhaust air is not forced thru, most the exhaust air goes thru the vanes at an idle, and when one opens the throttle up it struggles to get that exhaust vane spinning, now if it struggles to get that vane spinning, the more PSI on the intake/commpressor side that is built, the harder it is to turn the exhaust vane, the more the exhaust air goes thru the vanes instead of spinning it, I believe that is why a lot of them threads I have read had unhappy endings, they could not build any significant boost because the turbo was too big and would not build any significant PSI/boost. On my 720 turbodiesel with the modified/larger intake vane I had enough boost when it was setup as a draw thru, but set up that way it ran lean, I ran into a wall at around 60/63mph because it was not getting enough fuel and the EGTs were as high as they were going to get(not very high), after talking to that guy I figured out how to make it richer by adding a valve and there was no more wall, I almost did a 100mph on that first test drive, but draw thru systems have other more critical issues with these inline injection pumps and the turbo types I have/use, but blow thru systems on these engines/injection pumps/turbos I use have way less issues, as a draw thru I could never let anyone else drive the vehicle, while as a blow thru I can let others drive it, but I talked about the turbo vacuum issue stuff in my threads and what I did to try and minimize the issue. Too big of a turbo will not increase air flow in my opinion, but it will not decrease air flow either, I suspect it will drive like there is no turbo at all, in this situation bigger is not better. It sounds like you might have one of the rare 5 main SD22 engines, I have never seen one before, I wonder what type of pistons it has, I wonder if it has turbo pistons. I use sealer on all sides of gaskets on the oilpan, that is something I do not want leaking as it is a pain to change it out with the engine in the truck, also it is very awkward laying on ones back under the truck dealing with it, I do not recall what type of gaskets I have used on my diesel engines, the SD22 I rebuilt has a cork one as I just now looked at it, it also appears to be leaking, it likely has under 500 miles on it. The pulling the 720 diesel truck to start it is not my experience, someone on here talked about pulling the truck to start it and I suggested that the rear wheels just skidded down the road and that is what happened, but in the end I believe they were able to get it started in second gear dragging it down the road.
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    Untitled by raymond medeiros, on Flickr Now I have both sides.
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    Follow along with John Coltrane... WTF ?
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    Came up with another question, this time about batteries. My Chevy uses two batteries because glow plugs take so much power that they are like a second starter. I see you are using only one battery. Do you need a lot of amps to operate both the glow plugs and the starter?
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    Another question I just now thought of. Are the exhaust manifolds for the SD-22 and 25 the same size?
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    Here is a photo of the tach I have in my 521 kingcab, I think it is awesome, it is very easy to see.
  39. 1 point
    No my turbocharger manifold is not stock, it is a stock manifold that has been modified as you can see in the photos below. In the center of the photo above where the bump is is where I should have the EGT sensor, but it is located behind the turbo in the photo below. You can see in the first photo how big the hole is in the manifold and how the stock exit is welded closed, this made it possible to route the turbo exhaust pipe out the stock location, in the photo below you can see the adapter I made to mount the Subie turbo to that giant hole in the manifold, notice how small the hole is, originally I thought this step down into a small hole might effect the turbo performance, but it works great, who knows it might work better if the hole in the exhaust manifold was the same size as the hole in the adapter, but I do not care anymore, it runs great. The adapter above is made from a flat plate matching the exhaust manifold and the mount piece off the Subie exhaust going to the turbo, when I bought the turbo from that wrecking yard I got everything connected to the turbo, the complete exhaust from the engine on both ends although i made the turbo exhaust from the turbo flange back as the stock head pipe was pointed the wrong direction coming out of the turbo. I suspect that the diesel engine just doesn't move enough air to have the step down into a smaller hole effect the performance, if it was a gas engine I suspect I would have issues. Here is the engine in my 521 kingcab. There is not a lot of room anywhere in the engine compartment, but the hood closes. The brake master is real close to the turbo, but I did make a heat shield, I also had to turn the front brake reservoir sideways as there was no room for it in the stock position. Here is a link to the thread I have about this turbo build. https://www.nwdatsuns.com/viewtopic.php?f=13&t=1302 And here is a link to the 720 thread about all the stuff I tried to get the engine to run properly the way I drive. https://www.nwdatsuns.com/viewtopic.php?f=15&p=69188#p69188
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    Wayno, your problem with the Tiny Tach is the first I've heard of any. I will be watching mine to see if it does that. So far I have had no known problems with mine. I like that it is digital and shows RPM for every 10 RPM of the motor, which is more accurate than any analog tach I've used. Trying to figure accuracy on an analog tach for a needle that is moving between marks, often without numbers, on a background that doesn't have enough numbered divisions isn't accurate. Having to glue magnets on something that spins is something I've been very leery of, centrifugal force can throw things off with a great deal of force. I have not trusted that anything glued on will stay on for a long time, so it is good to hear about your long term success. The turbo exhaust manifold you speak of, is it a stock item, or did you have to make it? My stock exhaust manifold dumps out extremely close to the emergency brake cable and I am concerned that it is so close that exhaust heat will cause problems. I figured I was going to have to make a manifold for the turbo to get heat away from the e-brake cable, and of course to properly set up the turbo. I'm hoping to set up the exhaust so that it won't take much to change from NA to turbo.
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    You can post a quote within a quote by 'saving' a quote then move inside the quote you are displaying and hit the quote 1 post button lower right and it inserts it. then hit delete to remove a quoted post, normally I would just left click and hold and turn everything blue that I wanted to delete, but that doesn't work here anymore.
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    1/ Try hitting the reply button and scroll down several lines using the enter button then put a period in and add your quote one line above it. This will leave room at the top to add your own text before it. 2/ Or hit the + sign to the left of the quote. This will hold the quote while you add your text. Then hit the 'quote one post' flagged in the lower right. You can stack several quotes together with this. 3/ Start with your text then find the quote you want and click it. Not very good if on the previous page. Place your icon above the quote on the far left and a flashing square with a cross inside it will appear. Place your icon on it and hit your delete button to remove the quote
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    Thank you wayno. I think it is safe to assume that Autometer has worked without any malfunctions for you. The EGT gauge I had in my big pickup was a real eye opener while it worked. The EGT temps went up really fast, and could under the right conditions come down almost as fast. The big thing I remember was how really really fast they could go up. I have a Tiny Tach in my Chevy pickup. For the 6.2 and 6.5 2000 RPM seems to be the best, and I'm assuming the SD 22 is the same. As far as I'm concerned it is people like you wayno that I can learn a lot from. First hand experience is the best teacher, and the next best comes from those who share their experiences.
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    I buy the Autometer gauges, the extra Pyrometer I have is part #2654 with a black face, but all my other gauges have white faces, I do not recall their part number, they are expensive gauges, I paid close to $200.00 each for both the pyro gauges I have, I got a deal on the black faced one. My boost gauges are also Autometer, but they were cheap, when I go to swap meets and car shows I was always looking for a deal on complete pyro gauges and any gauges I might need in general, now that I have an extra pyro gauge I have not been looking anymore. Mike you need to understand the inline injection pump the SD22/25 came with, they are vacuum controlled and when floored they all blow black smoke when stock as they are rich unless someone has messed with a smoke screw and forced them lean, under normal driving around town they normally do not blow black smoke, but when you come to a hill or try driving up a mountain pass either you down shift or you floor it and hope to not have to down shift, but since putting a pyro meter in my 521 kingcab before it had a turbocharger, I came to realize it is not good to floor them for long as the EGTs can easily go over 1400 degrees, and from what I have read 1400 degrees or more is bad, it is not a matter of if it will melt down, it's a matter of when it will melt down, a couple times in the past my diesel engine started to lose power and the water temp got very high while being floored for an extended period of time trying to get to the top of a pass, I was very lucky I didn't smoke the engine, I did not have a pyro gauge back then and the engine still runs great to this day, I am so lucky and Nissan must have built these SD25 engines to take punishment, I did the same thing to my SD22 a couple times, but nothing like what I did to that SD25 on that trip over the Grapevine in southern Ca. I get better mileage with the turbocharger because I am not floored, I have got around 35mpg with both my SD22 and my SD25 engines when I drove 55/60mph, but I do not like driving that slow, on a trip if I drive 70/75mph I will get to where I am going and back home way sooner. When driving my SD22 powered 720 on the hiways, I had semi trucks passing me all the time, it drove me crazy, that is why I found SD25 engines for all my diesel trucks. I do not believe the DPC Module will shut a running engine down once running but I do not know for sure, but it will not let the engine start till it shows oil pressure unless one removes the wire from the oil sender/sensor. I also use an RPM gauge(diesel tach), but after driving my diesel trucks all these years I could likely do without it, in 1st thru 4th gears the engine starts to sound over revved at 2600rpms, but the engine still sounds fine at 3000rpms in 5th gear, but one is close to being floored at 3200rpms in 5th gear even with a turbocharger with 3.50 gears in the rear with P195/75R14 tires, keeping in mind that I have SD25 engines, I have not drove an SD22 powered anything since around 2010/11 when I finished the 521 kingcab. I know I talk too much, but because I do I hope that others learn and do not make the same mistakes I have made.
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    A turbo would reduce the engine having to work as hard to suck air in. Maybe the diesel mixture is too rich to begin with and extra air would be 'free' power with less soot out the exhaust?
  46. 1 point
    I am getting better fuel mileage with the turbocharger, keep in mind that before the turbo I was getting around 25 in the city and 27 on the freeway as I was going 70/75mph and was almost floored all the time, now I do not know what I am getting in the city as I have not checked, but on the freeway on my first trip with the turbo I got almost 31mpg going 75/80mph, but the big difference was I was not frustrated when I came to a hill anymore, it just went right up the hill without me changing anything, my foot stayed in the exact same spot, when I hit the hill the boost went up a little(7/8psi), and the EGTs went up a little, maybe 900 degrees at the top of the hill, but my foot did not move, no downshifting, no having to floor it, up the hill it went, and strangely it went down the other side of the hill exactly the same way, I did not move my foot, but the boost went down to 3/4psi and so did the EGTs. Before the turbocharger was installed I would be floored in 4th gear on that hill trying to keep it at 60mph and my EGTs would be at 1400 degrees and I would be letting off the pedal trying not to go over 1400 degrees. I have said this before and will say it again, I will never drive a diesel without a turbocharger again except maybe around town, on the freeway it will have a turbocharger or I will drive something else, the SD22 is even worse on the freeway, my first SD22 powered 720 would barely do 70mph on the freeway and when I came to a hill I would sometimes be in 3rd gear depending on how steep the hill was, I remember being in 2nd gear on freeway 101(coast freeway) in northern CA one time on a steep hill. I have never turbocharged an SD22(3 main bearings), you need a boost gauge and an EGT gauge, these are must have things, you will likely blow it up eventually without them. The DPC module(black box) is a complicated device, it controls a lot of things, even oil pressure on start up, the engine will not start without oil pressure unless one removes the wire from the oil sender/sensor, the DPC module controls start, run, off positions on the IP controller, if you are smart about electronics you might be able to set something up that will work without smoking the IP controller, but I have never heard of anyone succeeding, I have heard of a guy that used solenoids for the off and run positions. The guy that had the Volvo with the SD25 turbodiesel engine in it that ran so hot(EGTs) when I drove it I stopped driving it for a year, that guy claimed to have got 48mpg on the freeway, but he drove 50/55mph and he used that choke cable to lean out the injection pump by pulling on it till the engine would barely run on that much fuel, it could not get hot as it was hardly getting any fuel, when I test drove the Volvo before buying it it ran hot, and he told me I drove it wrong when we finished the test drive, I fixed it so I could drive it and it has power though out it's whole operating envelope without running hot.
  47. 1 point
    I think what you're seeing there is some pitting in an area where 3 panels join. No fracturing that I've seen so far. Well, I got the driver's seat mount out and I'm thinking I should abandon the idea of getting away without doing floor pans. Not that these aren't salvageable, but good quality replacements are so cheap that it just isn't worth the effort of making patch panels. Some more fine work from a past life. I was gonna pull the passenger side mount out too, but was laughing too hard and called it a night.
  48. 1 point
    Then this found its way back into my life for an ecu install.
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    I know, I know. I've technically owned this one for close to 15 years though, so couldn't really let it go without fixing what my neglect caused. Still a lot less rot than was ok my daily when I bought it. I have managed to strip the rest of the interior and trunk other than the passenger door where the window winder is being fickle about coming off. Should have some parts starting to roll in over the next couple of weeks.
  50. 1 point
    A couple of off topic photos. My 521 that I built when I was in high school and college.
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