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Showing content with the highest reputation on 10/13/2018 in all areas

  1. 3 points
  2. 2 points
    Ah Caaaome Oaan, Not only do they look alike, they whine alike. SMH
  3. 2 points
    Thanks Charlie69. So far work has not called me out so going out to garage now to start mocking up column, wheel and bench seat. The process your mentioning sounds familiar, think I read that post before. If we do shorten shaft there is a machine shop at my work and they have helped me out in the past. Will see if they can use lathe for cleaner results.
  4. 2 points
    Like cattle to the abattoir. A truck hauling its own motor is kind of sardonic.
  5. 2 points
    I am on call with work this weekend so could have no truck time or lots of truck time, one never knows. Hopefully get to install seat and column to check. Thanks for the reminder on the wheel to seat spacing Mike, I remember reading that as well as compensating for the gap, wheel to plastic housing since we are using a Grant wheel and adapter.
  6. 2 points
    I got one more show close to home at the end of the month.... I might keep running mine till around Thanksgiving all depends on the weather..... time to get going on winter projects..... I really want my 5spd installed for next spring..... see you tomorrow mainer311....
  7. 2 points
  8. 2 points
    "Japanese car days " is tomorrow at the Lars Anderson museum.... Raining today and suppose to rain monday, but luckily not tomorrow..... It does mess me up a little, I planned to wash and clean the truck up when I got home from work and make sure everything is good for the ride.... it's about 45 miles to get there, while it doesnt seem that far it's still gonna be the furthest it's gone in one stretch....
  9. 2 points
    Steering column shortening....now I'm listening. :) Keep in mind that when you shorten it, it will pull the wheel down a lot on the seat making it really hard to slide your leg under a stock steering wheel. I'll be looking forward to seeing how you do it. I've been planning on doing this on my YT channel for years...in fact, I even picked up a column earlier this year for just that purpose. Charlie.....I don't remember hearing/seeing anything about you shortening 520 columns. Did I just miss it or is it something you haven't shared? I'd like to get your input on how you do it.........via email. :)
  10. 2 points
    I have shortened many Datsun columns all for my 520. I am running a 1980 720 2wd chassis and I think this last column was shortened 7", and the column was raised 1/2" at the dash bracket. It is real easy to shorten a column that has a rag joint.
  11. 2 points
  12. 2 points
    Good catch on the break/brake d.p maybe I shouldn’t be working on them if I can’t spell it, lol. I noticed on the forum about shortening the steering column mrbigtanker, we probably should. Might mock it up first to see. My son and I are both over 6ft tall so the original bench seat will be adjusted all the way back so wondering if column will be ok. Had two 521’s when I was younger and don’t remember the steering wheel crowding me but I was young and probably just happy to have some wheels, not thinking about comfort.
  13. 2 points
    I pulled apart the rear end, it was surprisingly simple. Access to an accommodating press made it easy. The bearings were in good shape, repacked, seals replaced and installed. Something failed in the diff. Installed the one from the 620 and the rear end has never sounded better. We made a trip out to Calgary and made a vacation out of it. The truck did it's longest trip, over 200km round trip and it drove well. As like any project, it still isn't finished. But there has been lots of challenges with this build and I'm happy to say it's at a "turn key" point and I will just enjoy it for the time-being. Thanks for all the support and advice.
  14. 2 points
  15. 2 points
    Beautiful horses, they should make their fat ass owner pull on some thing...
  16. 2 points
    I hate it when that happens.
  17. 2 points
    Borrowed radiator pressure tester from work and pressurized radiator to 10lbs and submerged in tub of water. Had a leak in one old rad hose we used to seal inlet and outlets together, cut that part off and re pressurized with success. Completed install of drive shaft and am now laying all new break and clutch plumbing under the hood. Started by shaping the clutch line and then used it as a template to shape the 2 break lines that run parallel to it.
  18. 1 point
    That's the "shit" I like. ???
  19. 1 point
  20. 1 point
  21. 1 point
  22. 1 point
    You are correct bottomwatcher but the money I would have spent buying it is still in my pocket and will be used to get the wiring and ECM and the trans control box. There is a 95 in the bone yard I frequent at this time. So it is time to go electrical shopping.
  23. 1 point
    Im hoping to be there right around 10.... this will probably be the most ratsun members I'll meet at any event up our way so it should be a good time... To bad the 510 wont be there, i was hoping to see one in person again, but I get the parking concern.... I'm lucky to have a garage at home to keep mine in... once I was finally on the road it took me about 2 weeks before I was comfortable taking it places and leaving it out of my sight... might have something to so with the fact the i still haven't hooked up my door locks and only about a month or so ago I finally put glass in the doors.....
  24. 1 point
    My brother rag jointed the original column and steering box using a 720 4x4 non tilt steering column I think it was shorten 6". This is on page one of the build fist post. it is detailed better in a post a little father down the page. Later I did a column for the 1980 720 chassis that I swapped under the 66 520 . I cut the column and outer tube with a cut of wheel, and beveled the shaft for welding back together. I used a piece of angle iron to lay the 2 pieces of shaft in and clamped the pieces of shaft to angle iron to minimize the heat warpage. My brother spot welded the shafts together and unclamped an rotated the column made 2 more tacs after rotating the column between each tac. My brother then used the layered weld to finish welding it back together while I was turning the shaft laying in 2 pieces of angle. Garret built up the weld to the point that he was able to use a flap disc to dress the weld to the original shaft diameter. This process works but the lathe metod produces a better looking finished product.
  25. 1 point
    It might have been that way 10 years ago, but I would not use the phrase "endless access" anymore.
  26. 1 point
    Much work you may want to get a spot weld remover- basically a mini hole saw a drill bit and remove sections that are worst and re-create frame and spay or paint por inside frame when opened up , do able if you have time and ability.
  27. 1 point
  28. 1 point
    Thanks. Backs are next.
  29. 1 point
    Ungly cunt, who would want to touch that manly bitch, if I had her number I'd call her too, she deserves a good trolling!
  30. 1 point
    Brake. And I would love one of those rubber grommets as well. Mine deteriorated beyond repair.
  31. 1 point
    Been crazy busy with work so progress hasn’t been great but tonight I finally got some ME time to get the ball rolling on the swap.
  32. 1 point
  33. 1 point
  34. 1 point
  35. 1 point
    If I were to do a motor swap, As an Audi also driver I would make a 5 cylinder turbo work ?
  36. 1 point
    Did a Google search under Ratsun for remedies on restoring old hardened cracked rubber and doesn't look like its been talked about. Followed some advise given on Youtube using 3:1 ration of rubbing alcohol and wintergreen oil. Those impossible replacement parts such as windshield wiper grommets, rectangular grommet for the wiper motor at fire wall, rubber seal at firewall around steering column along with other bits and pieces. The wintergreen oil is pricy, paid $9 for a 100ml bottle, bought 2 of those and a 500ml bottle of rubbing alcohol, mixed it all together so my ratio was heavier to the wintergreen oil side. Soaked parts for 48 hours with great results, softening the rubber really well and as stated on Youtube he checked his rubber parts days later and they did not return to there original hardened state. The steering column grommet has multiple cracks but will reinforce with a mastic tape (thick rubbery tape used in the power and communication utility field. Hope this info comes in handy for others.
  37. 1 point
    Thanks Paradime, checked out the links on your 510, very impressive. Gets my son and I inspired to keep plugging away and get his truck on the road.
  38. 1 point
    Yes I know there's no u-bolt. I was planning to use the one I already have. But you're right, 2" less will probably not be enough. I'll measure my u bolts tomorrow and I will order some u-bolts from stengelbros.net. The only question is which length should I take? I'll measure my u bolts and probably remove the block length and the extra-length that should have been cut by the previous owner. It should give me the correct length or a little bit more. Thank you again for taking time to help me.
  39. 1 point
    That's where I had to park my Datsun last year. I was told that if I wanted to camp in my wagon on fairground property I would have to park outside and walk in. But if I was driving anything else it would be ok. How misguided and fucked is that ???? I was more than willing, and tried to pay the $25 a night and $3 a day 'walk in' fee but Steve would have nothing of it. He said he wasn't going to make any exceptions to the rules for me??? What rules? I only wanted him to stick to the pricing list that he had posted. Apparently to be allowed to camp, a Datsun owner is obligated to enter their car in the show but it doesn't say that in the 'rules'. So fuck you Steve, instead of $56 paid into the Canby event you got $6. In the 9 years of coming almost 700 miles to Canby, have I never seen such management bullshit. If the show isn't at Canby this year, or there isn't a show, I can totally understand why now.
  40. 1 point
    The '70-'72 used an L16 or 1.6 liter engine. It may have been swapped to an L18 or L20B? Some things to consider.... 1/ This is a FWD engine. Besides the engine mounts, what RWD. What transmission will you use? Won't bolt to the 521 transmission and it wouldn't handle almost 3 X the power anyway. 2/ The KA24DE uses a CAS. (crank angle sensor on the side of the head) It needs the EFI set up to help the ECU generate a spark and an ignition advance curve. I can't think of a points or EI distributor that will replace it. 3/ You will have to make an intake manifold for a carburetor. 4/ The fuel pump is high pressure (around 38 PSI) and will need replacing with a 3.5 PSI one 5/ needs an electric cooling fan for the radiator. If this was a truck KA it's already RWD and has a 2wd 5 speed available. The intake has a throttle body injection on it and only needs a flat aluminum adapter plate made to mount a carburetor. Although it has a CAS, it's on the side of the timing cover and an earlier distributor will mount to it. Has it's own cooling fan. You might reconsider this move. This engine is 'doing it the hard way'. Not hating just saying...
  41. 1 point
  42. 1 point
    That is a good Fit Mr Tanker! I like the green, gold, and chrome together.
  43. 1 point
    I'll work on the lowering problem tomorrow (should I say raising?). I want to raise it by 5 cm in a first try (in order not to have the wheel under the wing at all) and I hope that removing the clamps will be enough. I suppose that the leafs will be under tension while removing the clamps. Should I remove them completely or put them only on the 2 main leafs by sliding them (it seems to me that there was a clamp on both of them before) ? Newbie question but I must ask: do I remove the clamps after using a jack or I leave the car on the ground ? Thanx for all !!!
  44. 1 point
    Take them stupid clamps off that are holding the 2 upper leafs to the straight bottom leaf, the ride quality will likely dramatically improve and the rear of the truck will likely raise a little, them clamps do not belong there and are there for only one reason, to lower the truck. I did that to my 520 several years ago because others were saying it was a great way to lower the back of a truck, well it did lower the truck a little but it made it feel like I had no suspension at all. If you want to keep it semi low buy some Datsun/Nissan 4X4 leafs, they lower the truck, but more importantly they are firmer and help to keep the axle from hitting the frame to a point, there is a point where there isn't enough room between the frame and the axle and nothing is going to stop it from hitting other than a frame notch.
  45. 1 point
    Ok according to my measurements, i have : Axle = 3,5 inches bolt thread = 0,5 inch total height = 12 inches Does it sound classical to you guys ? If I remove the block, do I need to take something like a 8 inches u-bolt ? Is it standard length anyway ? Off topic : I passed the 100 posts. I didn't think that buying an old car will make me improve my written english that much !
  46. 1 point
  47. 1 point
    Rims and tires are purchased, hopefully mounted and balanced by tomorrow. Will post pics once on truck. Found a 17 X 8 with +25 offset which gets all the rim inside the sheet metal. http://www.rtxwheels.com/en/wheels/rtxwheels-slate-satin-black we went with a Falken tire 205/40R17.
  48. 1 point
    Let the wheel fitment begin. Brought this 17X8.5 with -6mm offset home for fitment trial only. The fitment on the back works, there is a 1/4" of rim beyond the sheet metal and 1.5"of space from the inside of the rim to the frame. Now for the front fitment. Are all these trucks F'd up where the hub mounting surface on the front is further out than on the back by 1.5 inches? still good clearance on the inside but ridiculous overhang beyond the sheet metal.
  49. 1 point
    Hello, it's not factory black. It was green and the previous color can be seen under the black, in several points. I was very anxious about that but finally the paint is in very nice condition and I think I will only but some black paint on the green spots. frank88, sorry but I think I'll keep the bench seat ? If you are interested in the full size interior mirror, I think I will remove it. It's very nice and efficient but I can't see half of the road with it ? Concerning the wire, I checked the wiring diagram, it's a ground wire. I'm sure it should be connected there because it was connected on a picture taken before shipment. It's kind of funny to see that the shipping company didn't disconnect the battery for a 3 months trip around the world but had probably pulled out that wire... Yesterday I bought an hydraulic jack and candles to start working on the torsion bars. Obviously I didn't buy the most important thing : time to spend on the truck... Stay tuned...
  50. 1 point
    After you evaluate and no where you stand with your little 620 you will be able to relax a little and prioritize the things that need to be done. Congrats man you did it. You purchased a 620 in the US and had it shipped to your home land and then drove it home. That in its self is a milestone and all of that is behind you. Congrats man now you can tinker and put your signature on it.
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