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Showing content with the highest reputation on 08/16/2018 in all areas

  1. 2 points
    Hey there, Was finally able to find a clean 240z for myself. Has about a quarter size spot of rust on the entire car that I've seen so far. I had been looking around on craigslist but couldn't find anything reasonable or within my price range as most 240z's were going for about 10k+ in my area for a clean one. I had put up a WTB ad and a couple days later, a gentleman had sent me an email with a couple pictures saying he is looking to sell his Z. He mentioned a price in the email but I was certain he was either missing a 1 in the front of an extra 0 in the back. He was located about 3 hours away from me so not that far but far enough that if it turned out to not be what I was hoping, it would have been annoying. He did mention that the engine had a knock in it but he had an extra block and a few other parts that he would throw in to the deal. Show up to his house and the price he told me is actually what he wants. Didn't even want to barter on the price in case he came to his senses lol. Trailer the car home and work on diagnosing what kind of sounds like a rod knock but also sounds a bit off. Engine ran fine and didn't seem to vibrate out of the ordinary and the sound would quiet down around 1500 rpms. So my dad and I drop the transmission cause we were also thinking it could be the input shaft bearing making the noise as that is what I had read online being the case for some. Anyways....fast forward till today and I found the cause of the noise.....the flywheel bolts were finger tight!! Thankfully the flywheel didn't shoot off and injure the car or someone. Be sure to use locktite and proper torque specs! So anyways....that's my ramble for now. I'll be working on cleaning up the car as the interior needs some work. It has been repainted about 12 years ago but looks pretty darn good. Will eventually get different wheels. Not sure if I'll keep the bumpers on our not. I don't plan on doing fender flares as I would like to keep car clean and unmodified on appearances for the most part. Once I get the cosmetics to where I want, then I will work on upgrading the engine performance but nothing too crazy. And of course, here's a picture of the car. I'll add more when the car isn't sitting on jack stands waiting for clutch parts. I'll be using this thread to keep track of my progress.
  2. 2 points
  3. 2 points
    First of all check the serial # of the engine in your truck against the little VIN tag that attaches with 4 phillips head screws. The engine numbers on on the block just under the head between #3 and 4 spark plug. If the engine number matches the VIN tag then that is the original engine and you have a numbers matching truck. Second your LS buddies do not have the appreciation that you have for your little Datsun 620 truck. You will have to butcher the truck to get an LS in there and I admit this can be done very well by skilled and talented craftsmen.
  4. 2 points
    You mean like this! LOL That was the first thing I did when you sent me the image. I need to get another one made as that one shrunk, I got fatter! LOL
  5. 2 points
    Indeed sir, indeed. I'll probably be there pretty early....does it start at 9 or 10?
  6. 2 points
    I am suspecting I did not need to replace the master cylinder. After replacing the master cylinder, my brakes got bad again, and after a few, or several times bleeding the brakes when they got bad, each time a shorter time between needing to bleed the brakes again, my brake lights started staying on. At first, I thought it was a master cylinder problem, with brake fluid pressure holding the brake light switch on. Yesterday, I took the brake light switch out of the truck, and it was always on. I blew compressed air into it, and it still stayed on. You can not have the brakes light always on, people behind you do not know it you are really stopping, and since the brake lights do not need the ignition on to work, it will and it did drain the battery. Today, I got a new hydraulic brake light switch. I am lucky to have a good auto parts store nearby, Clackamas auto parts in Oregon City. I called a local Nissan dealer this morning, to see if a brake light switch was available, it was not from Nissan. Body parts on a 521 are measured using the imperial system, you know, inches. I knew the flare nuts on a stock 521 are 3/8-24, and I was hoping that the brake line junction block hole for the brake light switch was just a standard 1/8 pipe. It was. This is the old brake light switch screwed into a 1/8 pipe "T" The OEM brake light switch needed a 1" socket to remove it. It needed a fair amount of torque to remove it, so I clamped the lower part of the brake line junction block in a pair of Vice grips. I held the Vice grips in one hand, while unscrewing the old brake light switch with the other. After removing the old brake light switch, I used a oil pressure switch socket to install the new switch. This is the new brake light switch, installed. Then I put the wires back on. Brake lights on. Brake lights off. I did a very short test drive. The brakes seemed OK. It was late this evening, and traffic is basically gone, so I took Ratsun down to a local gas station, and got gas in it. The brakes still seem to work normally. It will take a few days of driving to see if I really got the brake hydraulic problem fixed. i am now suspecting the old brake light switch was defective, and somehow letting air into the brake junction block, but not letting fluid leak out. This is the second time I took Ratsun to a gas station, and filled the tank, since I put the L-20-B engine in it. So finally, I could check the gas mileage on the truck with that engine. 221.9 miles on 9.738 gallons of gas, 22.787 MPG. This is with the stock 5211 four speed transmission, and rear axle ratio, 4.375, mostly non freeway driving, and getting two loads of hay. and not really trying to get good gas mileage.
  7. 2 points
    You're welcome, sweet cheeks
  8. 2 points
    Tampering with emissions is a crime in that shithole state. And that INCLUDES adding a cat on a car that DIDN'T come with one.
  9. 2 points
    Ed sir are you the person that did these for me? Danny sorry to here you are not going to make it to the barbecue. I promise you will not have to cook. Tom has volunteered! LOL Seriously I will be looking forward to seeing you at future barbecues and shows. Say hi to Darin please. Mark you are welcome
  10. 2 points
    Untitled by raymond medeiros, on Flickr Throttle cable is all good in da hood. I like how its ran under the intake and not over the top. I can't stand that shit. There ugly.
  11. 2 points
    Untitled by raymond medeiros, on Flickr Untitled by raymond medeiros, on Flickr The little things make a huge difference. Thanks Matt. Powder coated the shank black and got new black glasses from Matt.
  12. 2 points
    Oh not saying you should drop it in brother, its made specifically for Classic vehicles that wont need smog checks and real frames to handle the torque. Keep up the work on Godzilla, must hear it fire up when its ready.
  13. 2 points
    JCWhitney sells a very good carpet set for the 411s. Caution, they have the careless tendency to send carpet sets for the 4 on the floor manual transmission no matter how clearly you specify column mount automatic transmission. This order just might be best done on the telephone. They also sell carpet clip sets that mate up with the factory carpet fasteners already on your floor. One caution, the front carpet is a set of 3 individuals that have to be aligned to give factory like appearance. If I could do it, and I did, so can anybody.
  14. 2 points
  15. 2 points
    No more lightened flywheel and it's a totally different car. Decell rock crusher is all but gone. It's drives waaaaaay better. Flywheel was a waste of $300.. oh well. I bought it before I turbo'd the car. It doesn't need one.. it's a hand full as it is!! And the RE71R's are killer. Drives like it's on rails now.. Only thing I did besides the flywheel was filled the trany with Redline MT90.
  16. 1 point
    Hello all. You’ve likely seen a few photos i’ve posted up but here is my official intro thread as I fly home tomorrow and can actually get started on it. Just a quick background, my first car was a ‘75 620 back in ‘96. Drove the ever lovin piss outta that truck and it NEVER failed me. Fast forward 20+ years and I decided I needed another. Being 6’ tall with very long legs a regular cab was out so I started the search for a King Cab. Found this ‘79, struck up a deal and since my parents only lived 2 hours from it they picked it up for me. It was still 8 hours from me so it hitched a rode behind a co-worker for the remainder of the stretch home. While away on vacation a friend arranged procurement of a set of wheels that were absolutely essential to the look I have dreamed up Also got notification that my flares will ship soon and I should have them within a couple weeks I’ll continue updating as parts come in and progress is made.
  17. 1 point
    Picked up this older Cony 360 Wide. It's thought to be a '67. Odd ball little thing... opposed (flat) 2 cylinder, dry sump, air cooled, 354cc with a whopping 18bhp. Cony engineered and produced military vehicles including aircraft for Japan, but after the war they began making Kei cars and engineering small engines. Nissan purchased Cony in late 1960s. Cony designed and built the A series engines (copy-cat of BMC engines) for Nissan used in the 1200 / Sunny cars. This little Cony was used as a grounds vehicle for city of Seattle in it's former life. What am I going to do? No idea. First plan is to get it to turn over. Good news, it has compression and spins freely.
  18. 1 point
    From the outside the L16/18s are identical. Look behind the dip stick handle for the engine size. Use a wire brush if you have to. There's a raised flat boss with the numbers clearly stamped on it. The L20B is 3/4" taller and at a glance is the same but has a few defining features that separate it from the L16/18. Myself, I would find and rebuild an L20B block for simplicity sake. It will cost the same to rebuild an L16 so why not a larger engine?
  19. 1 point
    Thanks for your input Mike, yes I have looked at the l20 and the ka24 as well. I guess I'm not looking in the right place, because I cant seem to find one in my area..? I know it's very little to go on...but from my described above post, what do you think about the current L16....an it could possibly be a 18...I'm not 100%. Is it worth trying to save? Cause my LS guru type friends think it's not worth it, an I would rather hear from someone who has experience with these trucks. I don't mind going all the way so to speak, it will just take me a little longer to build the appropriate funds to make it happen. If you need more pictures posted to help me figure out about said above I will do so....just don't know how to post them to the thread yet. Thanks again! ?
  20. 1 point
    You can here: https://www.zazzle.com/datsun_520_t_shirt-235659563115614477 Also as a mouse pad https://www.zazzle.com/datsun_520_mouse_pad-144565152220930856
  21. 1 point
    The L28 does not fit! It's two cylinders longer so no room for rad or cut out the firewall and move it back. Get frustrated and scrap the truck. Don't go this route. Get a 4 cylinder engine to swap. Best would be the L20B... it's the same engine and will drop right in using everything you have now, transmission, rad mounts. If brave you can put a D21 Hardbody KA24E or DE in, it's much more involved but fits the truck. Keep it simple.
  22. 1 point
    the shaft is a factory one that i powdered coated, and the mirror is a stock unit. plastic back in black. I have 2 of them.
  23. 1 point
    I have an 84 I am almost ready to put on the road, and have to check the vintage of my parts truck; does anyone know how many years they used the same windshield? 84 is kingcab (needs windshield) parts truck a standard cab slightly older but don't know what year. Will the VIN tell me that?
  24. 1 point
    There were more black slave owners in Africa than white slave owners in the us.
  25. 1 point
    went ahead and checked a plug from both sides and spark is there. Also wen't ahead and replaced the o2 sensor since it was cheap and easy to get to. Haven't really noticed a difference so I guess its on to timing and valve clearance.
  26. 1 point
  27. 1 point
    My hands are huge. Bitch
  28. 1 point
    It shouldn't do this. It means gas and air are still getting into the engine after being turned off. If a carb engine, the idle cut solenoid shuts off fuel to the idle circuit. Not sure about the throttle body injection... probably the injectors are shut off but if leaking (dripping) it would diesel as fuel pressure does not immediately stop..
  29. 1 point
    Don't waste your time or money. The Z series make ok power just like the L series but they are not a good candidate for adding performance enhancements to it. It's comfortable below 4,500 RPM but struggles above this because of the head design's port location and shape. At these speeds the stock exhaust manifold is more than adequate. Spend the money saved on 1/4" larger exhaust pipes and a turbo muffler, this will do more than a header. If you must, put a header on only after changing to a larger carb and a performance cam when it may actually help. Headers are likely one size fits all but the Z24 engine head sits 3/4" higher than the Z22's head. Thus the Z24 header on a Z22 will likely also sit 3/4" lower under the floor. If there is a specific Z22 header the years used are '81 through Sept '83 when the Z24 was introduced.
  30. 1 point
    It's our common ancestral birthplace. Coffee was invented there. The Nile is the longest river in the world. Ebola is still around in Africa. The Sahara desert is the largest in the world and the size of the US. Has the second largest lake in the world. Tallest fastest and largest land animals are in Africa. Also largest reptile, largest frog and largest primate. In Swaziland 25% of the people are HIV positive. More people in Africa speak French than do those in France. The national flag of has an AK-47 on it. South Africa has produced over half of all the gold ever mined in the history of the world. Twenty-five percent of all bird species are from Africa.
  31. 1 point
    Edz280zx it'll be great to have you join us. Danny we will miss you but understand..we will be posting pics. I'm prepping my lady's truck for the trip as we speak. TY Charlie for posting those pics ?
  32. 1 point
    Figured I would update this since I've been here two years already...lol. The Z passed smog with all of it's original equipment. Since it is a federal car it does not require a catalytic and only needs to conform to the federal guidelines not California. This also means that I can legally install a header as long as it has the EGR installed. Also found that you can replace the fuel injection system as long as it is listed as a "replacement" for that particular vehicle. This means that the FAST f.i. sold by ZCarDepot as a replacement system should be legal...results may vary I would hazard a guess. Anyways, that's my update for now.
  33. 1 point
    If it fits in a truck that's great, but a Hellfat motor in a GT-R is far from a complete drop in. Nonstarter no matter what the price. We've got less than $15 into our engine build and with 600hp AWD it will be quicker than a hellcat. Even with drag slicks people have been struggling to make the 11.2-second quarter mile time that Dodge has been trumpeting, but here's what a 600hp R32 GT-R can do on street tires.
  34. 1 point
  35. 1 point
    So now another question I have a 1981 720 with a Z motor what years will fit my motor...…. Headers? So far it looks like 80 to 85? I think? Just make sure its a Z motor?
  36. 1 point
    time to kill, new phone, ugly ass square headlight, grandma's car, ya-da-ya-da.....
  37. 1 point
    We made 5 run attempts and only conpleted one. Achieved 98.5 in 3rd gear and things went south. So far we diagnosed half cylinder pressure in #2 via the exhaust valve, the front crank seal spring was pulled up into the timing chain, and the distributor drive gear lost its index. Likely sheared the key at the crank gear? Going home early.
  38. 1 point
    DatzenM….Ok yep One of them wires is 12V lol....Yep gonna go take a look tomorrow at the junk yard on 27 ave pull a part? Anyway they have like three 720 there but bet they are all parted out by now. I was there when they were setting out a complete 4x4 720 I almost bought the whole truck as is for 800 bucks but passed it by I just don't have the room. Charlie... I have car collector insurance on my 720 so it NEVER needs to get emissions and yes I still have the pipes and the EGR all my stuff but I am thinking about capping it off I don't need it that's for sure. will it affect the running of the truck I don't think it will.... Its gonna look WAY cleaner with out all that smog shit...
  39. 1 point
    I believe it had been there since new. There are no scratches or anything in the floor at all. Moved the liner to my trailer. Probably gonna turn it into a grill and cooler tow along.
  40. 1 point
    Thanks guys!! you ain't kidding... ? I drove it to work today (8min from my house..) It was fun. Needs an alignment bad which I'm getting tomorrow.
  41. 1 point
    Back to the grind! Stainless window trim is in and now I'm working on prepping the dash to go back in. I decided to add a circuit breaker inline with a key locked cutoff switch in the dash (the AGM battery can't have a draw and it adds another layer of security). all I really have to do for wiring is make new main power and ground cables and wiring in the trunk. So today is a big day.. maybe it will fire off??
  42. 1 point
    That's some very helpful information already, thanks for that. Just by chance, can you tell more about valves used as well as injectors, fuel pump and such?
  43. 1 point
    That sounds great! If that's the case, I believe the list I have written down together with porting should give me a satisfying result. The idea with the modified valve also is kinda genius. No idea if that's something "normal", but to me it is pretty amazing, as I've never heard about it. I've read / heard about the crankshaft being one of the main problems of the engine during my own research before. Would it be possible to simply send two crankshafts, one being a spare one to cut off weights to add onto the other one or are extra weights not a problem? Also, can you tell more about the Fluidampr? I've done some searching, however I only found them for the RB26/350Z engines? Could other harmonic balancers do the job? Only ones I found are made by Powerbond / Well Auto. Will link those. https://www.precisionintl.com/BrandSearch.aspx?Brand=Powerbond&Cat=54&Make=54&Model=&Engine=1323 https://www.ebay.com/itm/Well-Auto-HARMONIC-BALANCER-CRANK-PULLEY-KA24E-2-4L-for-98-04-FRONTIER-XTERRA-/321974802346
  44. 1 point
    Don't be amazed. I was the bottom end and final assembly guy. I know how to make the rotating and reciprocating assemblies live long, but the power mods were done by other guys in the shop. I was the I-dotter and T-crosser, making sure that the engine was assembled properly with all the components. That said, I can't really tell you anything more than the right cam, compression ratio and port job is all that's required to get the 250hp. I know, pretty ambiguous... I wouldn't be afraid of the pistons. A good mock up will give you all the numbers you need. Using mock up valve springs and a dial indicator, along with the cam you are going to use and the valve heights already set, you can easily figure out piston to valve clearance and modify the valve pockets as needed. I have even done this on the engine with a valve modified to cut the piston by welding and grinding it to turn it into an end mill.
  45. 1 point
    Finished two of my center caps tonight.
  46. 1 point
    Yeah, and then you have to cut up your stock spindle. I didn’t want to do that.
  47. 1 point
    Mike's parts work out of the box with stock brake hoses. No hunting for parts to fit.
  48. 1 point
  49. 1 point
    *and diesels up until some year in the 90s or early 2000s that I don't care enough to look up
  50. 1 point
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