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Showing content with the highest reputation since 09/10/2019 in all areas

  1. 4 points
  2. 3 points
  3. 3 points
    I agree but I know it cost me $30 or 35 to send the samples. Something to consider.
  4. 3 points
    Not offended just it is the beauty of America buy low sale high.
  5. 3 points
    Untitled by raymond medeiros, on Flickr All those lights to blind people because LED's suck.lol. No one was injured or blinded while taking this picture.
  6. 3 points
    Can we get back to my bankrupt truck please. Manifold is all ready. Will post a picture soon.
  7. 3 points
    It's in the nature of the 32/36 progressive carburetor. If driven too aggressively you can open the secondary way before the engine can use it. The 32/36 would be an almost perfect carburetor if it had a vacuum operated secondary that openes only when the engine was revved up and in need of the secondary. Until then it's a perfect carburetor for those who like to be more involved in the driving process. In some ways it takes a learned skill to drive one at optimum.
  8. 3 points
    Experimental Engineering makes motor mounts (to use with stock 510 mounts), a transmission crossmember and oil pan. That will get the motor in the car. They also have misc good stuff - tension control rod kit, idler arm kit, and headers. They make really nice stuff. You can PM me and I will try to answer any questions since EE is a one person shop and it is very difficult to get a hold of them. I am only doing this to help them out since he has been a friend for almost 20 years (and I am using his parts on my VG33 swap into my '72 510 wagon).
  9. 3 points
    I guess there are no stop lights, stop signs, drive-throughs, busy parking lots, or a million other instances one would still be considered "driving" while idling.
  10. 3 points
  11. 2 points
    RIP windshield and back window. They must be pitted like crazy by now. Also RIP Datsun 620. Might as well buy replacement panels and mount them up on a frame...
  12. 2 points
    So if you don’t pay attention then I guess you never seen it. Glad we got that straight.
  13. 2 points
    found a place in greenville sc that does tach repair.D&M Restoration its only 5 hours from me which i will ship it to them.
  14. 2 points
    Untitled by raymond medeiros, on Flickr Untitled by raymond medeiros, on Flickr Thank god for technology
  15. 2 points
  16. 2 points
    A gorgous one was on Barret Jackson years ago. Those Barret Jackson guys are like Ratsun they didn't want to pay a lot for a Jap made rig. It went for 4K. But a Ratsun owner will but 3 k into a 250$ rig with no proplems and still might only be worth 1500 as his mods might be junk anyways which keeps the price down. then the next owner has big plans and pulls motor and leaves in backyard for 3 yrs then towed to the junkyard
  17. 2 points
  18. 2 points
    "The Right Stuff" RTV is simply the best all purpose product on the market these days.
  19. 2 points
    It will be ok..... Regardless I had to order a solenoid to see how things react to my setup before I even think about trying to do a mod like your talking... I'd rather keep this as simple as possible.... So the one I decided on goes for around $50 or $60 without the bracket, and i managed to find a new one on ebay discounted to $25, so I bought that....
  20. 2 points
  21. 2 points
    Hey all, Wanted to update this and tell you i found out why it wasn't getting spark, it was the points that were bad. I was just so fixated on thinking my wiring was wrong i didn't look so far downstream on the electrical system. Thanks for all the help for that, i changed the points and started right up first try. I changed the carb and need to get that tuned up right and check the timing again to get the truck running smoother. I made a smaller sub harness for the taillights and ran new wiring to the back for it, got water proof connectors and wired those up. getting closer to wiring everything inside the truck. pics...
  22. 2 points
    First of all check the oil level, it may just be low and filling it may reduce the noise. 4x4 after Oct.'82 use a 4.11 C-200 Salisbury differential, the 2wd use an H-190 third member with nothing above 3.90 two totally different axles. Drain the differential and remove the cover plate. If making enough noise to hear it may also be visible that something's wrong.
  23. 2 points
    My fun money budget is a little tight right now, lol.
  24. 2 points
    thanks all. Belt stopped squealing but the alt does make a noise that reminds of an intake/turbo. Its a whirring sound, really weird but whatever, will run it till it breaks I guess. And is anyone else bothered how high my truck sits without much in the back? All I really want is to lower it with 0 wheel gap and still use it as a truck, is that too much to ask?
  25. 2 points
  26. 2 points
  27. 2 points
  28. 2 points
    Pic of our resident Salt Flat Racer...
  29. 2 points
    Alright everyone...I have an update. Just like it was stated above...the RWD SR20DE uses a 225mm flywheel while the SR20DET uses a 240mm Flywheel. Having said that, I can use a SR20DET flywheel (240mm) but I had to use the spec sn331 clutch kit to make all this work. When I was ordering the clutch and flywheel from SPEC, I asked SPEC to give me the info (year/make/model) on that clutch kit so I can purchase any clutch kit I wanted in the future...but they were reluctant to give me that info. I’m assuming because they wanted a returning customer haha. Anyways...thanks everyone for all the help. Below is a list of the parts I used. SPEC Clutch SN22S Single , Steel Flywheel SPEC Clutch SN331 Single , Stage 1
  30. 2 points
  31. 1 point
    You know about this picture right ?
  32. 1 point
    I sold my 280Z on BaT and I will say it was 100% factual. Yes, they wrote the add but based on my input and corrections. Was actually very pleased with their process. And I did get many questions from bidders.
  33. 1 point
    weber makes a DGV_IC version of their 32/36 and has a bigger idle jet holder for the electric selinoid. Sometimes pushing the gas down as it shuts off will kill the dieseling as it looses vacuum cause the main butterfly open using the main jet thus bypassing the idle jet.. I run water thru them sometimes to help dicarbon the motor on hot days.Gentry dripple gas in there. I bet water injection during shut off might work.. I always thought of hooking up a water line to the vacuum port to suck water in thru that to do a drive to help dicarbon up the motor
  34. 1 point
    Well I don't like it when it diesels so I'll spend the time making sure it doesnt.... So far I have been successful.. Speaking about tuning I just installed F7 emulsion tube, with 130 mains and 180 air correctors ( 175s got stuck in other tube) and what difference that made to the transition circuit.... even from I lower rpm I can dump the throttle now and It just goes with no hesitation.. no more easing into it needed... Its amazing the difference from baseline running to being tuned properly.... after I drive it a bit I'll probably make a couple slight adjustments with the new tubes, plus I still need to see how it does on the highway, but around town was a blast and air fuel numbers looked good.....
  35. 1 point
    Figure 8 bump stops. I have these on my 710 goon, didn't know what to call them but this is better. I'm lower and never noticed till this spring that the axle is only 1/4" above the 8 This would explain the stiff ride better than the extra leaf and truck shocks I added. I usually lift the body when under the back so never noticed how close it is. It rides just fine but on high speed dips you can feel the firmness when the 8 is crushed. I've been close to airborne (accidentally) but even lowered, it has never bottomed out.
  36. 1 point
  37. 1 point
    Yes I would like to get a brand new one. Mine is cracked on my 84 2wd auto.
  38. 1 point
    Jim Wolf Racing used to do these mods, but I don't know if he's even around anymore.
  39. 1 point
    Someone figured out how to make a Toyota reliable! 🤣
  40. 1 point
    The 320 bars have extremely long arms, when compared to most other sway bars. Again, a BMC model may have something close.
  41. 1 point
  42. 1 point
    Are we seeing a new side of DP, or is he just a hypocrite?
  43. 1 point
    Slip a rock in there when they're not looking 😆
  44. 1 point
    Noooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooo!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! DOT 5 is for cars/trucks that sit most of their life. If and when you decide that you hate DOT 5, it is a pain to flush it out and switch back to DOT4. One trick I learned to keep old drum brake systems healthy is to install a 2# residual valve in the brake line. This helps keep the lip seals in the wheel cylinders pushed tight against the cylinder wall, which helps keep moisture out and the cylinders from failing. This is a common modification that builders have been using for decades. I learned about it the hard way when the "new" brake system in my 320 Datsun started leaking at the wheels after only 3 years. I originally used all OEM parts, and was shocked to see the leak after such a short amount of time. Some other builder told me about the residual valve trick, and it solved the problem.
  45. 1 point
  46. 1 point
  47. 1 point
    Looks very sexy! (like you, Big Guy) I love the 2-tone interior and the old school Equip 01 wheels.. Very nice!
  48. 1 point
    Beautiful car and nice build documentation throughout. She was sweet at Powerland. Hats off to ya!!
  49. 1 point
    Because it's the wrong Toyota engine. 😮
  50. 1 point
    Time to clean things up, lined out the battery cable Bought a new RHD upper hood latch but didnt fit, used parts from the new one and an old one to make work great Opened up the holes to help with adjusting New shortened drive line, 37.5 inches center of yoke to center of yoke. long tail 5 speed Had some help cleaning seats and bleeding clutch and breaks
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