So heres what I got goin on;
I was driving and i saw the volts go down to zero so I turned around and started heading home. I figured it would keep going as long as i didn't stop it, but as soon as I let off the gas it died. Nothing from the starter motor. My brother came over and towed me up a hill to try and bump start it, but we got nothing. While I was getting towed home I tried a few times to clutch start it but it wasn't having it. I tried one last time right before we got there and it starts right up (what the hell) and I drive it the rest of the way home. The thing is idling fine too now. But when I try to restart it nothing.
Battery wasn't charging on my charger so I figured it was done. Got a new battery and it worked fine for a while but wasn't really charging. Also, the headlights have stopped working (not big surprise the fusebox is trashed), but more perplexingly the rally lights aren't working (connected straight to the hot of the alternator).
Any apparent reason the battery wouldn't be charging? It is brand new, and so is the volt. regulator. Maybe newer alternator doesn't need a voltage regulator? or it is faulty out the box (chinese alternator from oreilleys) new volt regulator bad?
Some additional information:
some of the wiring harnesses under the dash are melted
the fusebox is shit
i am not competent (i hook stuff up wrong)
I don't have the car now or I would get a volt metre on it, just trying to puzzle it out from afar for now
P.S. how difficult is it to find and then install a new wiring harness?
When you really want to do a swap project, it's easy to focus on the obvious, and overlook a whole host of things that need to happen to do the whole job and do it right. Highest among them are the "while the engine and trans are out" stuff. You mentioned replacing things like the timing chain, but what about the clutch, maybe need to resurface the flywheel, new pressure plate, throw out bearing, slave cylinder, flushing and replacing the fluids. Parts that may be damaged or no longer working, like the MAF, igniter chip, IACV, throttle position sending unit, or the ECU. I don't think I've ever heard of a engine swap that didn't have one or more of these parts failing. All of that adds up, but then there's all the hoses, fuel system upgrades, cooling upgrades, intake and exhaust mods, countless little odds and ends that pile up. Unless you are a seriously skilled welder, I wouldn't recommend doing the drive shaft yourself. that cost $
It's kind of cliche, but the rule of thumb is to take your best estimate and double it. That's not to say you can't do it on the cheap, but trust me when I say, the vision you have for how this swap is going to go is fantasy. It's not until you start digging into it that reality catches up. Money is the lubricant of life, and if you're trying to get something done it's best to have a well oiled machine.
As previously reported, the exhaust on this truck was getting a little long in the tooth...
Well, obviously neglected, Bruiser decided to make his feelings known the other morning as the muffler finally let go and literally fell off the truck about a block from work.
I would say we probably exceeded the recommended life on this one.
Summit Racing to the rescue. I found a 1 3/4" in and out muffler and got it on order. The old stock outlet was only 1 1/2". I was hopeful that the whole muffler was creating a bit of exhaust constipation as this is the most anemic L20B I've ever driven.
Got an appointment with A1 Muffler in Everett. I highly recommend this shop! Doesn't look like much but the guy knows how to do exhaust.
He tucked everything up so much higher than stock! Looks super nice and sounds so smooth. Amazing how it changes the whole feel of the truck after driving around with broken exhaust for a couple months and then ultimately a straight pipe for the last couple of trips.
Made Bruiser feel like a million bucks! Or at least a pot of gold!
Yeah! New exhaust is that nice! : )