I'm pretty sure it's just someones handy work because it is very obviously repainted at some point. Excited to get to work on it with my dad even though he doesn't see the vision. 

https://imgur.com/a/NRqaSIf

https://imgur.com/a/Fo9z1Da

https://imgur.com/a/AbKVnjL

My engine had an engine rebuilt recently and the compression varies from 100 to 125 psi, but in the manual says that the compression must be 170 psi to be normal and 120 psi minimum. Are this numbers right? Or the engine rebuild was a fraud?

Thanks in advance! 

I’m looking to replace the carburetor on my Datsun and I’ve been considering a Weber kit from California Datsun. I recall hearing that this company doesn’t have the best reputation around here—is that still the case? Do you have any recent experiences or alternative recommendations?

Also, I’m planning to remove all the EGR components since I’ll be installing the Weber. Is this a good idea, and is it a tricky process to do myself?

Thanks for your advice!

Need another set of eyes and thoughts about this...

I have a '79 620 l20b with factory matchbox and a genuine weber 32/36 dgev (electric choke) that I've daily driven for more than 30 years and have an issue I can't figure out. Initially I started the truck right up cold (but warm outside temp here in Florida) as normal but after about 20 seconds it shut down by sputtering and not able to build revs before stalling out. It wouldn't restart. I tried the following:

I checked the spark plugs and they were wet with fuel.

I checked the float chamber inside the weber no dirt or rust particles whatsoever, blew on the inlet of the carb to check the float to see if the needle would shut the gas flow and it does. The float is the black plastic type and doesn't appear to have leakage.

I double checked the static timing at 0 and is pointing at number 1 in the distributor and looks good.

I've owned this truck for many years and have many spares...

I have spark to the plugs. The Cap Rotor Wires NGK / NGK plugs are in excellent condition. 1,3,4,2 verified.

I added an additional ground to the distributor which has a spade terminal, no difference. I've swapped Distributors, no difference.

The carb is about 15 years old, considering getting a new one as previously the carb sometimes floods when hot starting causing extended cranking, but always starts... Possibly some tube is clogged or accelerator pump rubber is age cracked...

The color of the spark might not be as bluish as I remember so I've tried several coils including a .6 ohm igniter II, several matchboxes OEM E12-80's as well as new aftermarket

Valves were adjusted about a year + ago. Truck isn't driven hard.

I appreciate anyone's thoughts.

Thank you!

Can a 720s box be rigged up to work?

Is there a place that works on them?

I have a defective fuel sending unit and need to get a new one, preferably universal (240-33 ohm) to work with the gauge that I have. I want to buy one prior to dropping the tank, but do not know the depth of the tank ... any suggestions? 

Thanks -  

https://powerbrakes.com/piece-part-surplus-section-1/

Hope this helps someone out there!

So I started loosening fittings from the three way block on the firewall. 1st on the m/c in (not the top one) push the pedal and fluid cam out of the line not gushing but there was fluid. Then I loosened the opposite side pushed the pedal and no fluid. The was no fluid when I broke it loose either. So I figured there must be a blockage in that 3way. And in taking it apart I destroyed it so there is no way to test my theory. Then I read on here about a load sensing valve? 

My questions are could I have a faulty m/c, if the 3way is blocked would that cause the pedal to go to the floor, and can I bypass this load sending valve thingy? Oh and where can I get a new 3way, are they universal or is it specific to the vehicle?

Sorry for the novel but I want you to have as much info as I have 

I have sent requests to engine builders requesting the following:

l20b motor for a 1978 620 l20b standard cab

150-200hp to the wheels

2.4l stroker (cam and head upgrade)

Streetable with the potential of turbo or supercharger

It has a stock 5 speed

I heard back from one builder that it is an 8k build. I am up for that if it makes sense. I would like efi but have come up empty in that regard. Any advice? I would rather put 8k in the motor than 20k in the paint... 

Note: the tank is full, the pump it’s working properly and it got good fuel pressure.

Here's my current garage setup, sans the daily Buick wagon.

First up was a deep clean and a brake job. The thickness of the mud was impressive; I am still working to clean it up. The driver-side rotor was scored badly and needed replacement, but both hubs were welded onto the rotors. After separating the components, installing new rotors, rebuilding both calipers, and regreasing the hub and bearings, we were back in business. My wife even helped bleed the brakes with me!

Second are the valve clearances. Honestly, the truck runs like crap. It shakes, it ticks, and it bogs down under acceleration. It might be the original carb or the old gas. It might also be poor valvetrain maintenance. I started with the valves and quickly found an issue. Cylinder two's intake valve rocker lost its lash pad. I found it further down the camshaft out of harms way, but the rocker, or exiting lash pad, had slammed into the spring retainer enough to do some damage. The lash pad won't drop back in, so I think the retainer has to be replaced.

I have more planned, but this is where I can leave off for now. I am waiting on some parts and trying to research the best way of replacing the valve spring retainer without pulling the head, or dropping a valve. I am also crossing my fingers that I can leave the camshaft in place, but I don't know what my reach will be once I start the job. I'd like to keep it as simple as possible for now, as I get the truck operational. I'm happy to tackle bigger projects once I know the mechanical guts are good.

It has 96k original miles.. im so stocked! It's completely stock and it's definitely mis matched in different areas.. runs and drive but I'm gonna work on it as it is.

Any suggestions on first steps? I'm definitely going to get it tuned up this weekend. Thinking about struts since it bounces with a slight push.. im open to suggestions, ideas, thoughts and everything! 

My girlfriend and I recently purchased a barn find 620. 
The goal is to have a nice little city truck for doing truck stuff, Cars & Coffee, and island hopping adventures. 
 

It was listed as “turns over and has title”. 
We bought sight-unseen because it was cheap and sometimes we can be impulsive:)

The engine is in fact very seized.

The title is in a dead guys name. 

Not off to the best start.

We’ve got the engine bathing in Marvel Mystery Oil/ ATF /PB Blaster cocktail.

The seller is allegedly preparing the correct documents to title the truck in my name.

The title is the first project. Tires next(shot) and then sourcing a set of keys(missing).
After all that we will see about the L18.

Orrrrrrr decide to step out of the project if the title doesn’t work out. 
(I could also do a title in doubt/highway patrol inspection etc..) 

Anyways. Happy to be here. Many questions to come. 
 

Thoughts and suggestions welcome. 

My dad purchased a 1972 Datsun 620 from a dealership and drove it off the lot. My mom rolled it while she was pregnant with my sister in 1978, my dad was working as a mechanic for a buddy doing drag racing in San Diego at the time. He and the crew went out to the spot, picked it up - started it, huge cloud of black smoke, then they drove it home. In 1981, my oldest brother drove it into a tree on the farm they lived on. It's been stolen twice in the last 54 years, both times it was gone for a year or more before the police found it and returned it. All four of my Dad's children, including me, and my aunt, learned how to drive in this truck. My dad would take us to a Sear's parking lot in the middle of the night and make us drive crazy eights, in reverse, around the parking lot lights. I guess if we were capable of doing that and getting it from stop to go, we were probably ready for the road? 

My dad put an L20B in it with a Weber 32/36 and a dogleg 5-speed with reverse pattern. He added a second gas tank - it's pretty jury rigged in place, near as I can see. Rear air shocks. No idea what else he might have done to it in his tinkering days. On top of the engine swap, the current one has been rebuilt twice. It has over 500,000 miles on it that have all been put on there by members of my family.  The last @** hats that stole it cut the tiedowns off the bed, hope I can get those replaced. 

For a long time, I've wanted to restore this truck. About 10-15 years ago, my dad just got too old to work on it and cash flow was real tight. I never really had the money to do it either. Now I'm in my 40's, and my youngest just turned 18. We were driving up to my parents to do some chores on the property and he says "I think I want a truck." I told him 'truck' is a big word, be more specific. "You know, like a small truck. Something that can carry a few things, go into the woods and camp with, stuff like that." We got up to the house and I showed him this truck that was basically buried in blackberry bushes - there was so much mulch in the bed of the truck that blackberry bushes took root in the bed and were growing out of it. He was googling it on our way home and saw what they looked like restored. "Yep, I'm going to see if Grandpa will let me have that and fix it up." 

Well, Grandpa said yes, and three days later he had gone up and cut back all the black berry bushes with a hedge trimmer, small chain saw and other assorted tools. Hooked it up to the tractor and dragged it up to the garage. So here we are. Images attached are the pictures I took, and I guess we're going to start restoring this. It looks like it's going to be a big project. Probably more than either of us are qualified for - but we'll see where it goes. I know the driver side rear wheel is seized up - pretty sure the break rusted in place. Tie rods needed to be replaced 10 years ago. 

Near as I can tell, our first tasks are: 1. Get the tire moving. 2. Wash it. 3. Put the Battery back in and see if the engine will turn by hand. Once we get it moving, I'll take it to a body shop and get a quote on getting the dings and dents pulled out. There's a few things that are really bent on it that need to be addressed. 

We would probably be better off looking for one in better condition and going from there, but this one has too much family history attached to it. It's either restore it - or bury it with my dad when he goes.