just thought I'd post a good picture.

My hood makes it not so good though...

I had a 620 growing up and have been looking for a 520 for years and years and finally the stars aligned and was able to pick this one up. Started 6 months ago with me leaving a sticky note in the window (which never works) and eventually the owner needed the cash and reached out...

MAIN GOAL: Have a reliable utility truck for hauling, moving, lumber, tools, equipment, etc. But also a cool classic truck to take the wife out for dinner and my dog to the park. Doesnt need to be high performance (nice to have), but would love to upgrade the things that make sense to improve drivability, reliability and longevity. I dont need to keep it stock, I plan to have this thing for the foreseeable future.

Known things about it:

-New clutch and brakes 5 years ago

-General maintenance performed diligently over its life by a shop (oil/filters/hoses, ignition adjustment, cleaning, kept covered, etc)

Issues/things I want to do immediately:

-Brakes are pretty shit. Stops like a drunken rhinoceros. Probably want to go with discs at some point in front as I plan to haul and tow.

-Still has original points ignition system. Want to move to either Pertronix or Matchbox HEI right away.

-Has electrical issues: Heater blower wont engage, popping fuses in the 4th position (10A fuse to the lighting switch assembly) when ignition is engaged, blinkers dont work but hazards do, headlights come on intermittently, dash lights dont work, windshield wipers are slow.

-Possibly move to higher performance intake/exhaust if its worth it along with other performance improvements on the stock motor.

Thanks for any help and I know Im at the beginning of a long adventure with this thing. I already love it, was standing in the driveway in my underwear last night just starting.

https://imgur.com/a/APG1xEF

I became one, and got it DD-ing in '11, signed up for judging at Canby that year(on 1 hour of sleep, and a teste welded to my sack), came to grips with the fact that it wasn't the best anything yet. Of cource driving it Daily got me laid, so I ended up in a relationship and neglected it again while I worked on my 16oz curls. That got me nowhere, so I picked the wrenches back up instead, aaaaaaand, pics...

so i came home in august of 2005 and I will say my 521 didn't like the next winter... so my girlfriend now wife let me park it in her garage where it sat for 8 years, now the datsun got moved into what i call my work shop i was able to convert 2 garages into one giving me a 20 x 20 foot work area. at this point my almost 2 year old son would follow me into the garage while I worked on other stuff, he'd pretend to drive the datsun while i worked.. every day I'd look at the 521 and would say some day.... that's day came when my son started to speak. His first words were Mama, Dada and then dats... Around December of 2013 this happened and I couldn't wait anymore.... wife gave me the go ahead and it got started.... well the entire truck was disassembled much more than i ever wanted to do but that's what happened so every system was replaced or overhauled.. I am a back yard mechanic and never attempted this before... so now 3 years later i have a completely rebuild driveline and I am ready to put the 4 wheels back on the ground and put the cab back on.. and thanks to the ratsun community this has been a great sight for info.. I have some things I've done which I can't wait to share. Some problems I had and how I solved them. Next post I will get some of the before pics up and her current state. ... thanks to all

    Welcome to my build thread. I just put $200 down on a $600 1971 Datsun 521. The Wisconsin plate on it says 1998. The motor is free, the glass is crack free, the doors close perfectly even with the roof damage from presumably a tree, zero through rust on the frame or truck bed. Floor pans at the crease to the firewall and the rockers have some holes. Hood is kinked. The grille was in the back of the pickup (whew!) The tail lights on the seat were a surprise to find after seeing the rears installed one smashed and the other missing. I bought new 15x8.5" wheels for it already to get it rolling onto the trailer. My plan is to get the OG motor running if it has compression otherwise KA swap it. I am planning on leaving the peeling red paint job and moss and lichen on there as long as possible 🙃 SWMPTHG plates might be ordered when titled 😁

Tell me what you see on this truck!!! I think the back window is aftermarket. I think the Carb is aftermaket (nikki?) I think it has a header on the exhaust manifold. The bench seat may or may not be original. The radio and glove box are missing as well at the ashtray lid. no key 🫣

Anyway, I know us goons like photos so. HERE YA GO. Also I tried for 20 mins to put photos on this thread so you didn't have to go to my google drive with the drop. If you can tell me how to get them on this thread I'll update it. 

https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/1oGe9HMhNkflRWjw9VrEB5ge8Iv8jviiB?usp=sharing

I just took ownership of a 1970 521. I have two 1976 280z cars so the L series aren't a complete mystery to me but I am fairly new to doing deep engine work.

This truck has had literally every maintenance item ignored. I've gone through the brakes and shocks but I found my first big issue when I went to change the oil pan gasket. I found a mess of rubbery chunks and it turned out to be the timing chain tensioner:

After replacing the timing chain and rebuilding the carb I was able to get truck running pretty well and was able to bleed the brakes and go for a drive and realized there was a ton of white smoke. So I bit the bullet and decided to go for the headgasket change and see if anything else was out of place and that is where we are now. 

My concern now is that this appears to be a stock L16 but it has an open style A87 cylinder head. From my reading that should mean this thing has terrible compression and is not a good fit for this truck. The other mystery is that he intake ports appear to have been ported and very poorly pollished. Which makes even less sense considering the the stock L16 block and literally all the maintenance being wildly ignored.

Anyone have thoughts on what the best course of action would be given this combination of block and head? I'd like to just throw the headgasket in and just drive it a while and use it for truck things but I'm concerned if the power output is going to be enough.

As far as I know there are 2 types,

I have spent a couple hours searching for a good replacement and this is what I came up with.

The Blue Sea 5035

http://www.powerwerx.com/fuses-circuit-protection/blue-sea-5035-6-independent-circuit-fuse-block.html

By using these Blue Sea 9217 jumpers this fuse block can be jumper to match either 521 OEM fuse block configuration.

https://www.bluesea.com/products/9217/Terminal_Block_Jumper_for_30A_Terminal_Blocks

Blue Sea 9217

how it looked before.going 2.3 big bore by Al Allen from Datsun parts,all new Wilwood brakes by Juan or Krecs,new TrueForged wheels 17x7,18x7 in rear cleaning up engine compartment and rest of truck.will update photos as time moves on.Will not paint right now want to get back on the road to enjoy.

The parts are,

1989 Eagle Premier sleeves

Nissan Hardbody 4wd tie rods

I realized i've been on Ratsun for a few years now and never posted any pictures of the truck. I'm calling her Heartbreaker as she's always doing the dirty on me.



Thats me cleaning 50 years of crud off the bottom of the engine.

Haven't needed to do too much to the truck as the previous owner did most of the heavy lifting. The camper shell is now gone. I'm not much of a speed freak so I'll be keeping the truck pretty stock. I'll follow up with some pics of the interior soon! 


 

-What is going rate for a pair of working stock 521 tail lights going for ?

-Any suggestions for roll pans ? links & prices?

Im considering trading out my bumper & tail lights for a roll pan w/ LED brake lights.... If interested in bumper or lights make an offer !

1972 Datsun 521 pickup by empte_eyes, on Flickr

1972 Datsun 521 pickup by empte_eyes, on Flickr

 
and looks like this:

Which is what mine looks like.

but the only mounts that come up look like this:

 I dunno what car that is for and doesn’t seem adaptable. Got one of these by mistake. Holes match up on the trans but not the mount/bracket on the truck.

What are the 521 people with 4 speeds finding to replace with a suitable mount?

Pretty much I have everything I need to do this, just need to buckle down and click on the buy it now on the airbag kit.

Konig209 521 KA24DE Swap 001 by Carlos Ortiz, on Flickr

well to start of you need a 521 1969.5-1972. that came with the l series for this write up to help you out.

if you have a j series.....ehhhhh you're shit outta luck but this may still help.

second you'll need a 1991-1998 nissan 240sx ka24de engine set mated to a 240sx 5 speed transmission, wiring, ecu, and maf.

Update 4-19-19 in all honesty if you can get an s13 setup its better than an s14. S14 head has a part in the cast that blocks the throttl cable. Its a pain in the ass but easy to fix.

no the frontier ka24de engine will not work as easily. it is a rear sump oil pan and it is not interchangeable with the 240sx pan and pickup tube.

no i don't know if any other trans will work with the info im giving.

no you don't need to cut into the trans tunnel for it to fit.

no there is no fabricating to make it fit.

yes it will drop in with the trans mated to the engine but you will need to remove the crank pulley, alt and water pump.

to avoid any hassle sitting the transmission in its place undo your torsion bolts as far back as you can then set back in after your done.

so parts list.

ka24de 240sx motor set

engine bracket kit from ]2eDeYe

You can contact him on here fb or ig 

instagram 

@i2edeye

ratsun

]2eDeYe

fb page

https://m.facebook.com/i2edeye/?ref=bookmarks

He also makes them for 620

received_3203421339776217 by Carlos Ortiz, on Flickr

TIP!!! when dropping in bolt the motor mounts to the engine gives another inch of

clearance when setting in place then carefully bolt it into its place.

20170313_201308 by Carlos Ortiz, on Flickr

20170313_201318 by Carlos Ortiz, on Flickr

20170313_201326 by Carlos Ortiz, on Flickr

trans mount from energy suspension part # 3-1108r

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/ens-3-1108r

Konig209 521 KA24DE Swap 007 by Carlos Ortiz, on Flickr

to fit oem radiator you need upper hose part #d71236

Konig209 521 KA24DE Swap 012 by Carlos Ortiz, on Flickr

lower hose is oem.

I recommend a aluminum radiator upgrade to help with cooling. ebay ones work great.

521 shares radiators with the 510 to make it easier with a 10" fan.

a custom 1 piece driveshaft needs to be measured to fit your truck. average is about 51" inches.

"some trucks depending on height or suspension setup will affect this."

2017-12-06_12-17-16 by Carlos Ortiz, on Flickr

wiring; icehouse member on here makes a great product to make it a almost plug and play setup with his canam box. comes with full how to tie it in to the harness.

http://community.ratsun.net/topic/28097-canam-production-easy-wiring-boxes-for-efi-works-for-kas-srs-vgs-cas-and-more/

SECOND METHOD OF WIRING

Custom wiring done by

"J's wire technologies"

Located in modesto ca.

Justin

Phone # 4088911336

$325 for regular loom

$375 for higher grade mesh loom. Looks much nicer like pictured.

2017-04-18_10-13-36 by Carlos Ortiz, on Flickr

buy 1 or 2 12" fans and place them where you like. pull push your choice.

Konig209 521 KA24DE Swap 011 by Carlos Ortiz, on Flickr

to do a single belt setup.

use a single cam ka water pump pulley, alt bracket, thermostat water neck housing, (and belt to fit will update later with part #.)

Konig209 521 KA24DE Swap 014 by Carlos Ortiz, on Flickr

get an egr delete kit. usually cheap.

http://www.frsport.com/EGR-Block-Off-Plate-Kit---Nissan-KA24DE_p_62895.html?gclid=CLuw-InM9dACFYVXfgodWCkHDQ

Konig209 521 KA24DE Swap 006 by Carlos Ortiz, on Flickr

for the intake you'll need 2 3" 90 degree elbows from autozone

http://www.autozone.com/intake-system/intake-coupler/spectre-performance-air-intake-tube-coupler/939533_0_0/?cmpid=PS:3:1:90

Konig209 521 KA24DE Swap 018 by Carlos Ortiz, on Flickr

2 pieces of 3" piping for the intake and a filter of your choice.

don't forget to connect the hose from the throttle body to the intake or it wont idle

Konig209 521 KA24DE Swap 020 by Carlos Ortiz, on Flickr

remove all but 1 vacuum to the fuel pressure regulator.

use a walboro 255 in line fuel pump it works or a 280zx fuel pump works to "i think"

Konig209 521 KA24DE Swap 005 by Carlos Ortiz, on Flickr

water routing will be your deal i ran almost none no heater nothing so i got no tips.

there is an orange wire that ties into the starter signal.....dont forget to wire it in lol.

for exhaust you can use the stock manifold.

use the oem down pipe and have it routed however you like.

for the alt wiring unplug your voltage regulator and make 2 jumpers.

jump white to yellow and red/white to white black

http://community.ratsun.net/topic/63851-burnt-alternator-wire-after-3-hour-drive/page-4

i will update as needed.

now do it and go roast some tires!!!!

Konig209 521 KA24DE Swap 023 by Carlos Ortiz, on Flickr

2017-12-06_12-24-38 by Carlos Ortiz, on Flickr

https://youtu.be/mb_OSZ2UlTg