+++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++

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I still have the old faithful diagram posted, once I get all the engines done it will be deleted but I can't bare to do it just yet.








All but 3 of these connections are made at the 2 or 3 plugs (depending on the engine harness) there are 3 connections made at the ecu tach ground and starter signal. I will post KA-510's car as an example.

the original one was cast for 40mm carbs and opened for 45’s, breached, welded - it worked but was ugly and potentially leaking, causing the tuning problems i was having.

on eBay recently was a period correct SK intake for 44’s, so my Weber 45’s should be dreamy.

to start this off, I will try and make it as simple as possible – I have phoenolic  spacers behind the rubber gaskets for the 45 mill carbs, I’m using those for the template.

i made small alum alignment pins to hold the spacer in place, and i scribed the line onto the intake.

i used a tulip shaped carbide burr to get close and shape the transition, the a larger 1” diameter sanding drum to make a smooth radius.

Well, three of the cylinders were perfectly centred and only required opening up, The number one cylinder was offset by almost 2 mm, emphasising the need to verify alignment on Parts like this.

You're temp/fuel gauges don't work and you've already checked the output from your fuel/temp sensors to make sure they are not the culprit. You checked continuity of the wires from the sensor to the gauge and the output from the current voltage regulator to find out that it outputs the wrong voltage, none at all or it's fluctuating. Well guess what, I have a solution for you!

I recently found out that my gauge cluster didn't have a voltage regulator, which is why my fuel/temp gauges don't work. Well that's totally unacceptable for me because i want to run all the stock gauges in my 510. It would bum me out to have to run aftermarket gauges when I have perfectly good gauges already in the cluster.

Fast forward to a few posts and questions later I learned the following.

Some basic info needed to figure out the problem

• The gauge cluster needs ~ 9v to power the fuel and temp gauges
• The car is DC and runs off 12-15v (i'm only putting this for people who may not know)
• Without a voltage regulator, the gauges do nothing

How the sensors work with the gauge cluster

The gauges always have power. As temperature or fuel level rises/lowers the resistance in the sensor changes. It allows more or less current to pass through it to the chassis ground. Both sensors work in the same way.

So the problem is we just have the wrong positive voltage going to the gauges... Well all the voltage regulator does is keep the voltage constant given any input power. OK... What are some options? I personally didn't want to buy a whole gauge cluster just for the voltage regulator. I have a background in basic electronics and arduino stuff, so I started searching mouser electronics, digikey and my local parts place marvac.

I found out something awesome.

There are a million really cheap tiny voltage regulators that do the same job as the big metal one on the back of the gauge cluster. Average cost? ~$0.43 to $2.00.

Well that's bad ass isn't it?

I picked up two just to be on the safe side and a PCB (printed circuit board) and set to working.

Parts

• Voltage regulator
  • NTE1910 or
  • LM7809
• Wire (preferable 3 colors)
• PCB board (optional but makes it nicer)
• Project box (optional but makes it nicer)

Explanation of pins on the voltage regulator

Here's a picture of the voltage regulator for reference.

• Pin on the far left is the power input (in our case 12-15v)
• The center pin is a "common ground". Just connect it to your chassis ground
• The far right is the power output (9v)

There are some upgrades you could do to stabilize the signal by adding capacitors, but i honestly didn't think it was a big deal. this isn't the biggest deal in the world, it's a gauge.

Tools needed

• Soldering iron
• Solder
• Multimeter (handy but not necessary i guess)
• Third hand tool
• Dikes to cut the wire
• Wire strippers
• Electrical tape
• Black wire*
• Red wire*
• Another color of wire*
• Project box (optional)

*Solid core wire would be best in my opinion for this project since it is not designed to be moved around a lot. Additionally, pick a wire gauge that will fit through the holes in the PCB.*

Setting up the voltage regulator on the PCB

If you're not good at soldering tiny wires, pick a PCB with larger spaces between each hole or spread the pins, being careful not to break them so you have a hole in between each pin. That should be plenty of room to solder comfortably.

1. Place the voltage regulator on the PCB, bend it so it lays flat against the PCB and solder all three pins.
2. Place the red wire in the hole in front of the power input pin (far left) and solder it.
3. Place the black wire in the common ground pin (center) and solder it.
4. Place the 3rd color wire in the voltage output pin (far right) and solder it.
5. Connect the power and ground pins
6. Test the output power pin with a multimeter to confirm ~9v.
7. Hook up output power to your gauges.
8. Have a beer.

That's it. Easy right?

Finishing touches / final thoughts

• Placing this into a project box would be a good idea to keep wires from being broken/bent
• If you cut down a PCB to a smaller size, sanding the edges will make it look nicer
  • Score both sides of the PCB with an exacto and you will be able to snap it like a cracker

Pictures!

Checked the battery for static test

Third hand tool is nice for soldering PCBs with tiny holes.

This is an idea of how small the VR is compared to the old school one.

Didn't want to fry my gauges so I checked the output before hooking anything up

Testing my gauge... SUCCESS!!!!

So tiny :) I'm so glad I can now finish putting together my gauge cluster. 

Are you tired of getting high from the gas fumes when you go to the grocery store?

Are you tired of fuel pouring out on the side of your car, when you hit those hard left hand turns?

You say you don't have $250 for a NOS, out-dated OEM rubber filler hose for your 510?

Then this quick easy cheap mod could be for you. (no welding involved)

This is a HowTo, on another way to replace that old rotted out filler on a 510 using about $10-$15 in wrecking yard parts.

My goal was to come up with a filler neck that was super easy, super cheap, and didn't require any welding. I'm a fabricator myself, so I can build anything I want, but I wanted the challenge of coming up with one, without using any expensive tools, lol.

I did not remove my tank to install this, The tank you see in the pics, is an extra one I have around for mockups.

Parts needed:

1) 88-93 Mazda B2200 filler neck

2) 91 Isuzu Pup filler hose (not sure what other years match it yet) (If anyone finds a good source for NEW hoses please post it)

3) A couple feet of new 5/8" vent hose

4) A newer style plastic (thread on type) Nissan gas cap (or the Mazda one that was on the filler when you got it at the wrecking yard)

Tools that help make it easier:

1) Basic 4 1/2" grinder (can be done with a hacksaw and flat file if needed)

2) Harbor freight med size tail pipe expander (not needed but helps) I think I paid about $8 for it.

3) Heat gun or blow dryer

This is the ugly thing that has been in there for way too many years: (It had to go)

***You do not need to remove the tank to do this mod.***

I'll be showing a modded and un-modded part of each thing.

So we start with the 91 isuzu rubber filler hose. I cut 2" off one end and 1" off the other end like so. (note where the bend is, so you cut the right amount off the correct ends)

Next we grab the Mazda B2200 filler neck and cut off the extra hanger.

Then we take the 510 gas cap ring and make the inside hole larger. I do this by just grinding the top of the bump down, until the center falls out. (then it's just the right size with a perfect round hole)

Now we have this:

Now working with the end that I took 2" off, insert the expander into the hose about 3" or so. Then use the heat gun to warm up the rubber, (slowly expanding it), until it will fit over the fuel tank opening.

Then mount the neck itself (the metal part) using the original 510 ring we modded on the outside. Make sure to mount it with the hinge of the flapper door on the top, and so the vent tube faces the rear of the car. Make sure the vent tube doesn't get in the way of the trunk hinge.

Then hook the rest up and it should look like this.

Now this is in no way the only way or even the best way to do this, but it was a fun project, and makes it so much nicer at the pump. No more gas fumes is a great bonus as well, lol.

So as for testing so far:

It fills up like a normal car now, it's great. You can lock the handle and go. I haven't filled mine to the top yet though, (I only run my tank half full for weight balance), so maybe someone else can report back on that some time. I ran the crap out my car, (drifting around corners etc...), and it never drip at all on the inside or outside. No more smell. The only minor hiccup i've found so far is, if you are not careful, you will drip a little fuel when you remove the pump handle because of the angle.

Let me know if you have any questions

*****This is a post on how I did my own filler neck, I am in no way responsible for anything anyone else does to them selves or anyone else by reading this information. Read at your own risk. Fuel is very very dangerous and can kill you in more ways than one. Do not try anything like this at home*****

I have a doubt about how and which engine to swap on my 1979 Datsun B310 120y sedan (you can see the car from the cover of my profile).

It has already been swapped in the past from an A12 to an A15. Since I have decided to completely restore it, I would like a performance engine with "oldschool" carburettors and understand how I can do it (I was thinking for the KA24DE). I'm sure some of you can help me,

thanks!

This post is more to raise awareness than anything of the new system.

You must have 25-posts to be able to post either a

---- For Sale Classified

---- Wanted Classified

---- (Basically anything related to the new classifieds section)

If you are a New Member you can acheive the 25-posts by

--starting an introduction thread

--starting a thread about your datsun

--Maybe you have a slightly more extreme datsun setup ? start a thread under "project datto"

--replying to other's threads

--general , techanical , and specific car forum areas

--insomniacs

--etc etc

Since it's been announced Ratsun is changing classified direction and format I decided to copy and save my old ads.

I'd highly recommend you do the following as well for when the old classifieds are made to walk the plank.

*(1) Go to your old for sale/wanted to buy/etc classified ads and save them to (2) different sources on your thumbdrive and or computer.

*(2) Continue to contact members from the old classifieds ads as well as new classifieds and PM/Message them since we're not able to respond or reply. At least until they are deleted.

*(3) Take time out of your day to PM a couple members about the new classifieds even if it's random :)

*(4) Familiarize your-self with the New Classifieds.

*(5) Re-post your classified(s) in small spurts (1-2 at a time maybe ?)

I have 25-30+ classifieds so I thought I'd post this for those who are more visual learners or simply don't know where to find them since questions and reply's to my old ads have ceased to exist.

It looks to be we're on a transition period for old and new classifieds.

Start by clicking on the "NEW" classifieds button located towards the top left hand of the screen.

The green arrows in the picture are pointing straight at it.

This is the screenshot you will see after clicking the button mentioned above.

^^^ referring and looking at the picture above.

There are now time-limits on the classified ads which seem to work out to 14-days until expired.

Notice on the top left hand side (orange square) highlighting the different categories to search in the classifieds.

Price shows up directly before clicking on the ad (circled in green and in green lettering).

Time left on the ad and views are counted on the right hand side of the screen.

If you wish to make a for-sale or wanted classified look to the top right corner of the screen and click "Add an Advert" (green arrows pointing towards the button in the picture above.)

After clicking the "Add an Advert" ..this screen pops up in front of you.

Add any pictures by upload or attach at this point if you wish (circled in black in the picture below).

You can also still drop photobucket photos in the main text body if you wish to do it that way ( I do this as well ).

In this case I choose the category "drivetrain" (edit: opps needs to be cooling ... )

Select a category by clicking you wish to post an ad on the bar that the green arrows are pointing towards , then click "continue" (circled in red).

This screen pops up next after clicking "continue"

scrolling down a bit further on the same screen shows this...

Now that you've reviewed the above 2 pictures (which we are still talking about)

Notice you can go back and change a category at this point if you wish (circled in green in pic above.)

Everything circled in green is an option = (exception "listing price" seen above in the picture)

*Phone Number

*Email Address

Everything circled in red or orange is mandatory =

*Item Name

*Description

*Country

*State or Province

*City

*Price

*Advert Type

^^^ Once satisfied with any information , pictures , prices , contact information and everything seems correct after a double check click the "Add Advert" button.

This picture below is the resulting ad after you click "Add Advert" button.

Again talking about as well as referring to the above picture ^^^

The Title , Price and Time left are all circled in Green.

Just below those ^^^ Is a big red arrow pointing to 3 sub-categories on the left hand side

= (Overview , Additional info , Questions)

Overview = Description with pictures typically

Additional Info = Location and Country info,

Questions = Just that Questions... where you can ask them !

The orange circle indicates a "for sale" classified.

As you look to the top right corner of the screen notice the (3) options all circled in green to Edit an Advertisement , Close an Advertisement , or Watch an Advertisement.

Two green arrows pointing the right just below the (3) options discussed above allow you to see the sellers other items , and seller name history.

In the bottom right hand corner is the "report" button that is circled in green !

In this case I will be using this as I posted a cooling product that should be in the cooling category and not the drivetrain category.

Have fun and enjoy !

Hope I was clear enough on this

DTP

(This is for OBD-II 96 s14 KA24DE)

This may not be the only way to do this, but this is just how I did it.

List of things you'll need:

1) 1- KA24E (single cam) thermostat housing

2) 1- lower 720 alternator mount

3) 1- 510 upper adjuster bracket

4) 3- 6mm-1.0 x 40mm bolts and lock washers

5) 1- Goodyear belt# 4030365

6) 2- water outlet gaskets (fel-pro 35466)

7) 1- Custom 3/4" spacer (more on that later)

The top one is stock KA and the bottom one is 720. (the block actually has 4 holes so it bolts right up)

The left is the one from a dual cam and the right is one from a single cam.

You can see how the original one hits the belt.

You can see how the single cam one runs the hose right into the TPS plug, lol.

This is the spacer I made (3/4" thick)

Here it is installed

You can see how it now clears the TPS. (It should look real nice and not stand out so much, once the rest of everything is all blasted and cleaned up nice)

I want to give credit to (agentalpha) for the lower idea and (Duke) for the single cam housing idea. Thanks guys.

Let me know if I missed anything, lol.

I looked at 3 main options for electronic ignition setups, "Matchbox", Pertronix, and Remote module distributor with GM HEI.

Matchbox

This setup is considered by many to be the most desirable EI system for the Datsun L4 motors. The matchbox ignition was stock equipment on several models from 1979 to 1982. The term "matchbox" refers to the small rectangular ignition module attached to the side of the distributor body that is about the size of a small matchbox. Advantages of this system are that it is simple, compact, and once installed it's reported to be very reliable. One disadvantage is that new units are no longer available for sale. They are also becoming harder to find. If you want to use a matchbox ignition, you will have to find a distributor that has been salvaged.

Wiring the matchbox:

Wiring for the matchbox distributor consists of two wires from the coil to the ignition module on the distributor, and a key switched 12V power source to the positive side of the coil. The wires from the coil to the distributor must be connected as shown, and not reversed. Also, the coil should receive 12 volts while the starter is being cranked, and when the key is in the "on" position. For some vehicles this will require that two separate wires come from the ignition switch (as shown in the wiring diagram). This is because vehicles that originally had a ballast resistor have a separate circuit to provide 12 volts directly to the coil during engine starting.

Pertronix

Another popular option is the "Ignitor" electronic ignition system from Pertronix. This is an aftermarket drop in replacement for the stock points ignition. The installation is simple, and will work with your stock coil and ballast resistor. If you prefer though, you can replace the stock coil and resistor with a higher resistance after market coil. With a higher resistance 3 ohm coil, the ballast resistor is not needed. The wiring diagrams below show how to wire the Pertronix with the stock coil and resistor, or with the 3 ohm coil only.

The kit is only compatible with certain distributors though. Dual points distributors will not work because the screw holes in the magnetic pickup assembly will not properly line up with the holes in the distributor. Also, some L20b distributors must be modified in order accept the magnetic trigger ring that comes with the pertronix kit. The illustration below shows the basic wiring for the Pertronix.

Wiring the Pertronix:

There are two ways to wire the pertronix, with a ballast resistor (using the stock coil), or without (using a 3 ohm coil). Use one of the two wiring diagrams below depending on your application. As with the matchbox setup, you should ensure that the coil gets 12V when the key is in the "start" position and also when it is in the "On" position. This means that for cars that originally had a ballast resistor, you will need to connect two separate wires coming from the ignition switch to the positive side of the coil. You can use a test light to verify this.

Remote Module Distributor with GM HEI

A third option is the earlier stock EI system that was installed on several vehicles equipped with L20b engines between 1975 and 1978. Instead of a small ignition module on the side of the distributor like the matchbox, this type had a larger box mounted remotely from the distributor. Although the stock ignition modules are bulky and expensive to replace, inexpensive and readily available GM style HEI ignition modules can easily be used in their place.

Wiring the HEI Module

The HEI Module goes between the distributor and the ignition coil. It acts as an electronic switch that is signaled by the pickup sensor in the distributor. Simply connect the two pickup wires coming from the distributor to one side of the ignition module as shown in the diagram. Then connect the positive and negative wires to the other side as shown. As with the matchbox and Pertronix setups, you should ensure that the coil gets 12V when the key is in the "start" position and also when it is in the "On" position. This means that for cars that originally had a ballast resistor, you will need to connect two separate wires coming from the ignition switch to the positive side of the coil. You can use a test light to verify this.

The HEI module needs to be grounded. this is usually done by connecting the module to a metal surface in the engine bay. In addition to grounding the module, this connection can also help keep the unit cool. The back side of the module is metal. If possible, the module should be attached so that the metal on the back side is against another flat metal surface. Some people mount the module on a heavy gauge piece of aluminum to act as a heat sync. Some modules come with special grease designed to conduct heat. The grease should be applied to the back of the module to further improve heat transfer to the mounting surface. Do not use dielectric grease for this purpose. Some types can reduce heat transfer instead of improve it.

YOU WILL NEED:

Wire tools (cutter, crimper, stripper, etc)

About 10-12 feet of 2 different color wires

4" zipties 

Normal size zipties

A good quality electrical tape

Intermittent wiper stalk (cut the harness-side pigtail connectors for the switch & volume control off  if possible!)

Wiper amplifier (cut the pigtail off this too! You can't connect the amp at all without this pigtail or another FEMALE 8-pin connector from elsewhere on a donor!)

Step 1 - Remove the 5 screws on the lower face of the column. 

Step 2 - Remove the 2 screws holding the stalk to the column

Step 3 - If you weren't able to get the volume control pigtail, cut the wires 1.5 - 2 inches away from the 2-pin volume control connector on the new stalk. Set this plug end aside for later. See steps 7, 8, & 9.

I haven't tested this, but I believe the later style 'round' stalk is wired identically with the exception of the volume wires being moved to the 2 vacant pins on the 8-pin stalk connector. 

Step 4 - Remove the glovebox & the steel cover plate behind it. There are 2 plastic pivots at the bottom of the glovebox, these have tabs on their ends. Pull these pivots out by the tabs & open the latch to remove the glovebox. The steel cover has 6 screws & is pretty self-explanatory.

Step 5 - On the firewall at the upper left of the passenger foot well there is a grommet. You may have to peel back the top of the carpet & the firewall jute to find it from the inside. Pop this out & cut a slit into it with your cutters or a utility knife. Note: I don't know if this hole is in use on trucks with stick shift / 4WD / AC, as my truck has none of these options.

\

Step 6 - Run your 2 colored wires thru this grommet across to the column. You can use the bendy wire holder tabs on the heater box to help route these alongside the OE harness. Leave about 3-4 feet of wire outside the grommet.

You can ignore steps 7, 8, & 9 if you have the harness-side pigtails / connectors for the stalk & volume control switch.

Step 7 - Remember the volume control connector we cut off earlier? If you weren't able to get the pigtail off a donor truck, carefully cut open the plastic plug holding these pins. Remove one of the pins & splice the wire end onto one of the 2 wires you ran thru the firewall. Connect the remaining new wire to either wire from the volume control. Note: The polarity of the 2 wires from the volume control DOES NOT MATTER.

Step 8 - Carefully remove the keeper cap from the back of the stalk connector. There are 2 tabs on the short sides of the connector that need to be pried outward for it to release.

Step 9 - Push the new pin into slot 15 on the wiper stalk connector. This will be the only unoccupied corner pin on the original connector to make it easier to remember. Make sure the pin is oriented correctly when inserting, otherwise the catch tab won't hold it in place. Push the keeper cap back onto the stalk connector after checking continuity from the pin to the end of the new wire.

Step 10 - Now, we enter the main wiring portion. I did make a diagram, but I honestly ended up consulting my written notes more than the image while doing this. I strongly suggest all splices use the 'poke and wrap' method rather than butt connectors, this is what the small 4" zipties are for. Those orange picks from HFT or a voltmeter probe work well for spreading the strands apart.

WHEN YOU STRIP WIRES FOR SPLICES NEAR A CONNECTOR, MAKE SURE THE CONNECTOR IS TO THE LEFT OF THE STRIPPER WHEN STRIPPER IS FACING TOWARD YOU, OTHERWISE YOU RISK TEARING THE WIRE OUT OF THE PIN / CONNECTOR OR SNAPPING THE WIRE!

GREEN pins are wires that keep their existing connections.

GREEN splices (circles) are pre-existing.

WHITE pins are ones that need changing or are added.

BLACK pins need no connection. 

BLACK splices are new splices that need to be made.

BLACK bars indicate a new connection from the original harness to the amplifier harness.

The PURPLE & YELLOW wires represent the two new wires you ran thru the firewall.

If you cut off the amplifier pigtail, PURPLE will be connected to the wire from the extra pin you inserted into the stalk connector from step 7, and YELLOW will be connected to whichever of the two wires from the volume control isn't spliced into ground.

Note: The polarity of the 2 wires from the volume control DOES NOT MATTER.

These are the written notes I mentioned earlier. 

New connections
NEW WIRE from PIN 15 from switch connects to WHITE/BLUE on amp
BLUE from motor is moved to BLUE from amp
PIN 13 BLUE from switch connects to BLACK/BLUE from amp
NEW WIRE from volume control connects to RED/BLUE from amp

New splices from motor
PIN 18 BLUE/BLACK splice with BLUE/BLACK from amp
BLUE/YELLOW splice with BLUE/YELLOW from amp
BLACK splice with BLACK from amp

New splices inside

EITHER from volume control splice with BLACK from stalk connector 

Step 11 - Test the wipers. Even on the fastest setting the delay is fairly long compared to a modern car, so don't be fooled! 

Step 12 - Secure the amplifier box. If you didn't get the firewall mount bracket, you can ziptie it to the cylindrical portion of the wiper motor using a long ziptie like I did. Try and make sure the connector faces at least a bit downward to discourage water from running in there. If you have any more wires you wanted to run into the cab (audio equipment, fog lights, winch) now would be a good time.

Step 13 - Secure the wires running thru the cabin & the engine bay. As seen in step 5 the brake lines are a perfect place to ziptie to.

Step 14 - Reassemble the interior (duh)

And that's all there is to it! I hope y'all find this guide to be of some help.

Basically, I cut the bottom out of a stock air cleaner, welded in a plate with a hole cut for the weber. Pretty simple. No welder?? JB weld or rivet the plate to the bottom. There's no pic of it, but I did weld the towers back on so the hold down bolt for the top was back in place.

Get the rear dome light of a Honda passport or a Isuzu rodeo 93-97 model.

Looks like this one!

This is how it looks installed.

What you need to do is grind the rear part of the lamp so it could fit the hole like this.

Then just drill two new holes and install.

Not responsible if you mess yours up!

Next week how to fix a broken 620 glove box door.

Also, a couple questions:

- how do you turn the engine to TDC? Just turn the crank pulley in neutral? 

- what gaskets should be replaced other than head gasket? 

- head bolt torque specs: I've seen both 40 and 60ft/lbs. Any thoughts? 

L Series Head & Gasket Replacement - Shop Checklist

Drain the fluids

• Drain coolant
• Drain engine oil

Remove auxiliary parts

• Remove exhaust manifold
• Disconnect hoses
• Remove distributor 
• Verify distributor slot at 11:28 position for TDC

Time engine to top dead center, compression stroke

• Take valve cover off
• Turn crank pulley to approaching TDC 
• Verify mark on crank
• Verify timed head (intake at 10 o’clock, exhaust at 2 o’clock positions)
• Verify v-notch on cam sprocket aligned with dash on cam plate

Loosen cam and crank bolts

• Put screwdriver through cam plate (is this a good method?)
• Loosen cam bolt (19mm) 
• Loosen crank bolt (is this only for full-engine breakdown?)
• Make sure nothing got moved out of TDC 

Remove cam sprocket

• Mark sprocket and chain link with paint pen to help with reassembly 
• Insert timing chain tensioner tool and make sure it is well seated
• Take off cam bolt (19mm)
• Remove the cam sprocket 
• Check the cam gears for wear. If gear is worn, replace with OEM Japan parts

Remove front cover bolts

• Remove top (2) 10mm bolts from front cover 
• Below steps are for full-engine breakdown only:
• Also remove remaining 10mm bottom cover bolts
• Take out oil pump and oil pump drive. Keep in a clean place
• Take off crank pulley. Keep in a clean place. 
• Take off cover, but keep bolts in cover so they go back in their same holes
• Tap cover with something soft on both sides to loosen

Remove engine head

• Clean oil out of Allen head bolts where debris can collect
• Loosen head bolts with Allen socket (10mm)
• Loosen and remove from inside to outside
• Soak head bolts in carburetor cleaner to clean
• Verify cam dowel is in 12 o’clock position to verify TDC timing
• Put a breaker bar in an exhaust port and gently lift to separate head
• Do not left head fall off! 
• Check head gasket, head, and block where failure occurred for defects

Remove old gasket & clean surfaces

• Clean gasket surfaces thoroughly. Check with fingers for any traces of adhesive, old gasket, etc
• Prep the block face and head face by removing all oil residue. A spray can of ether (starting fluid) works well, and some lint-free cloths / old t-shirts
• Chase the head bolt thread holes. Remove all water, grime, grease etc that is in the bolt holes. You can use a thread tap. Use a small vacuum hose to blow gunk out of the holes if needed

Install front cover gasket (if doing full-engine breakdown)

• Use blue RTV to hold gasket
• May have some complications with oil pan

Install new head gasket 

• Seal / hold head gasket using Permatex Copper-coat (optional)
• Place new gasket on block

Install head

• Place head on new gasket, aligning with block dowel pins
• Ensure head sits flat 
• Install head bolts with washers (10mm Allen)
• Follow cylinder head bolt tightening sequence 
• Use a quality torque wrench
• Torque in long, even stroke in increments of 20ft/lbs
• Finish at 40ft/lbs torque (check on this, someone else said 60)
• Make sure the cam dowel is at 12 o’clock position for TDC
• Make sure #1 piston is up to ensure TDC 
• Install the two front cover top bolts (10mm - torque spec?)

Install cam sprocket and timing chain 

• Install timing chain sprocket, align with paint marks (when trying to put the sprocket back on, it might seen hard to get it up on the dowel and center part of the cam. If so, move the cam left or right to get slack in one side to help raise the sprocket up)
• Install cam sprocket bolt (19mm, torque spec?)
• Remove timing chain tensioner tool

Install remaining parts

• Install valve cover (torque spec?)
• Install exhaust manifold
• Verify distributor at 11:28 position for TDC
• Install distributor
• Connect hoses

Refill fluids

• Refill the cooling system 
• Refill the engine oil 

------

Sources

H2theizzo YouTube L series head replacement

Is this you banzai510 (Hainz)?

https://ratsun.net/topic/25129-quick-head-swap-write-up/#comment-376498

(From Skib's Quick Head Swap Write-Up)

…some manuals from the shelf

Parts to be ordered & replaced

Head gasket

Thermostat gasket?

Other gaskets?

Special tools and Supplies needed

10mm Allen socket

19mm socket

Torque wrench

Timing chain tensioner tool

Gaskets (head, etc)

Permatex Copper-coat

Coolant

Engine Oil

I finished my KA24DE swap into my '84 720 KingCab (June 2017) and based on the information that I could find, the swap still proved to be an advanced undertaking.

With that said, this community has helped me so much to achieve the vision I pictured for my truck the day I first saw it - I knew it was going to need more power for my young 20's (and now 30s) self and the KA certainly provides that.

This guide is still a work in progress and as I begin my first few thousand kms in the truck I'm sure I'll be doing some editing (edited Feb/22) to make parts more clear and understanding. Please bear with me while we work on the best how-to guide we can for others to enjoy and reference.

Full story on the truck and rebuild of the engine itself: 
http://imgur.com/a/gBCD5

http://community.ratsun.net/topic/68278-1985-720-engine-swap/

At your local Pick and Jerk

First you will need to find a 79 Datsun King Cab that has the Intermittent wipers in it from factory (Some 78 king cabs also have them). I found this set from a 78 KC today.

On the passenger side kick panel you will find a little box with six wires plugged in it, this is the delay box. Take the delay box, the complete sub-harness from the delay box to the switch and the switch. The harness should come out fairly easily as it is only held under the dash by aluminum tabs, just bend them down and pull the harness out.

When you have it all out, this is what you should have....

Now you will need two more things...

1st you will need to cut the plug off the internal harness of the truck that plugs into the sub harness which looks like this, but cut it high up so you have plenty wire attached to the plug for later use.... The plug looks like this.... (This plug is near the Wiper Switch)

Second you need either the plug from your old wiper switch or the plug that we can use from the Emergency Flasher Switch. The plug looks like this.... Again leave enough wire on it.... I suggest using the one from the Emergency Flasher Switch so you still have your stock switch intac for backup reasons....

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So that we are not modifying any internal wiring on our trucks, we will use the two plugs we cut out earlier to make an adapter.

We will be using the coloring code of the wiper system to do this... Since the plug for your stock end (the plug from the emergency flashers) dont have the same colors, a diagram below will show you the color configuration or you can look under your dash at your harness end and figure it out. The view of this diagram is from the wire side of plug, not the pin side, so the wires will be facing you with the indentation upward. Connect the wires of your First plug we got earlier to the second plug. IE: Yellow wire on plug 1 goes to the top right wire on plug 2. The solid blue wire on plug 1 goes to the right middle wire of plug 2 etc... If all is done correct, you should have one wire on each plug not connected!

If you got the plugs like I got from the Emergency Flasher Switch, my Yellow wire on plug 1 went to the solid blue wire on plug 2, so that should give you the idea.

Now the two wires you have left, we need to do something with them! The wire on plug 2 that I had left over was a solid darker green wire, just cut that dude off at the base of the plug.

Now the wire you have left over on Plug 1 should be a blue/red wire and will be needed to power the delay box. You will need a Quick Splice for this. Quick Splice the Blue/Red Wire to the Blue/Black Wire! When you are all done, your new adapter should look like this..... (My solid green wire on plug 2 hasn't been hacked off yet in this pic)

Plug the adapter into your existing harness and then into the sub-harness. Reinstall the wiper switch and delay box and, WooHoo! You got Factory Intermittent Wipers!!!

Hope this helps all you 620 peeps!!!

I might also add, if your Datsun 620 is a 78 or 79, you might not need the adapter, just plug it in and play, but you will still need to run the Red/Black wire to a HOT source when ign is on.

Added below Info:

I tried this on another switch, use a small drill bit to drill out the crimps on the switch to feed the fiber optic cable back through. You may have to clip the end of the cable to remove any stray fragments which will cause the cableing to hang up inside.

You will be drilling the crimp out from the side of the shaft, not through the center of it. Tip of drill bit should be the same size as the indentation of the crimp mark. Do not go all the way through the whole shaft, you will need to do both sides. The crimp marks are offset!

Locate a junker 280ZX with a manual rack and pinion steering setup. Get the rack (along with the outer tie rod ends), the front suspension crossmember (the part that the rack is bolted to), the steering column including the shaft between the column and the rack (the shaft that has the u-joint). You will also need a piece of the 240Z steering shaft (see photo).

280zx Rack & Pinion Steering in the on 810 by Muerte541, on Flickr

Parts list:

280ZX rack and pinion manual steering assembly

280ZX outer tie rods

280ZX front suspension crossmember

810 front suspension crossmember (use your old one)

280ZX steering shaft from the column to the rack (the shaft with the universal joint).

240Z steering shaft piece (see photo)

810 steering column shaft (use your old one)

280ZX steering column.

Cut off the rack ears from the 280ZX crossmember and weld the ears to the 810 crossmember. Mount the ZX rack to the 810 crossmember.

280zx Rack & Pinion Steering in the on 810 by Muerte541, on Flickr

Disassembly of steering column tubes: On the 810 steering column remove shaft snap ring at top of column. Caution: snap ring is loaded with a lot of spring force, you may want to compress the spring before removing the snap ring. Using a new snap ring during assembly is recommended. Remove upper spring and washers. Slide the internal shaft out. Repeat for the ZX steering column. On the 810 tube remove the lower sealing collar then the bottom spring and its perch.

Modifying the 810 column tube: Cut off 23.0mm from the bottom (end closest to the rack) of the tube (see pic).

280zx Rack & Pinion Steering in the on 810 by Muerte541, on Flickr

Measure from the bottom of the tube and not the bearing housing. Remove the lower bearing by heating the piece you just cut off and pressing out the bearing. Mill out end of 810 tube for this bearing. Press in bearing. Re-building tip: Inspect the condition of the ball bearings. Use new (stainless steel) ball bearings if needed (McMaster part number is 9642K29) or use the ZX lower bearing if it is in better condition.

Modifying the ZX internal shaft: Mill the u-joint for more angle (see pic)

280zx Rack & Pinion Steering in the on 810 by Muerte541, on Flickr

and to make it symmetrical. Remove the ignition key lock collar on the ZX shaft by drilling out the pins. Remove the 810 ignition key lock collar by unscrewing the set screws. Position the 810 ignition key lock collar on the ZX shaft in the correct location (see pic).

280zx Rack & Pinion Steering in the on 810 by Muerte541, on Flickr

Drill new holes on the ZX shaft to use the 810 ignition key lock collar. Tighten 810 key lock collar down with its set screws.

Pivot plate on 810 firewall mount: Remove rubber shaft seal from the 810 firewall mount. Cut a 38mm diameter hole in a .0625 inch thick plate shown in pic. Position and weld the pivot plate to firewall mount on the inside of the firewall mount. Re-install rubber seal with new weather stripping adhesive.

280zx Rack & Pinion Steering in the on 810 by Muerte541, on Flickr

Assemble the 810 column: Follow the correct sequence and positioning of parts (see factory service manual). Compress upper spring in a vise and secure with two twists of wire. Place upper spring and insert snap ring. Cut securing wire.

Final assembly: Using the 240Z shaft piece assembly the complete steering column and steering shaft together (see pic).

280zx Rack & Pinion Steering in the on 810 by Muerte541, on Flickr

Write up and pics were provided by zcarnut from HybridZ.org

Well, I did. And this is how I did it on my 71 510. (Excuse the blurriness of some of the pictures. Despite their quality, I feel they still provide good reference to anybody performing this rebuild)

First thing I did, was drain the coolant. Easy enough, we've all done this.

After that, remove the hose on the engine side of the firewall, and also loosen the clamp holding the hose attached to the heater valve on the inside of the car(The valve is located to the right of the emergency brake)

Next, I had to remove the heater valve from the car. The hardest part about this was freeing up the screws, as they probably haven't been touched since the 71 rolled out of the factory. A little persuasion, and they backed out. There were 4 screws in all; 3 holding the heater valve in place, and 1 holding a bracket in place(I recommend loosening this one as well, as it will ease the removal of the heater valve).

With all 4 screws loosened and the linkage removed, push the valve forward and twist to free it from the hose leading to the heater core. Since you loosened not just the 3 mounting screws, but also the 4th bracket screw, the bracket should slide back while the tube goes through the firewall. As soon as the heater core end pops out of the hose, you can now pull it back and remove it from the vehicle.

Here's what mine looked like:

Ok, let's get down to business. The first step to disassembling this thing is to CAREFULLY pry up on the 4 tabs holding the plunger in place. I say carefully, because if you break these off, you're gonna have to figure out another way to hold the plunger in place. I used a flat blade screwdriver and twisted each tab up. Be extra careful not to knick the brass plunger shaft, as this is the part which does the sealing.

Once you get the tabs bent upwards you can remove the plunger. Here's what it should look like. Note the inner E-Clip.

There are two E-clips that hold the plunger together, an outer and an inner. You must remove the inner first. After you remove that one, you can slide the plunger up the shaft and remove the outer. Here's a picture of the inner removed and the plunger slid back, giving access to the outer E-clip.

You can now fully disassemble the plunger shaft, and get to those nasty 40-year old seals. Here's what the plunger looks like completely disassembled.

There are actually 2 seals. One is obvious, and one is concealed. The obvious one goes between the larger brass washer and the plastic outer piece. The hidden one is inside of the plastic outer piece. To get to this one, you must remove the small plastic "O". Again, be careful here, as you only get one chance to not break it. I used a dental pick and slowly worked it up and out. Here's a pic.

Inside, you'll find a hardened seal that isn't doing anybody any good. Remove it! You can replace it with an O-Ring(Napa pt#007). It's a good idea to put some silicone grease to help lubricate and seal. Re-install the small plastic "O"(The plastic one, not the seal), and slide the piece back onto the shaft the way that it came off. Now you can put your newer, larger O-Ring(Napa pt#115; remember to lubricate this one as well!) between the plastic piece and the washer. After that, put the plunger back onto the shaft, and the outer E-Clip, followed by the Inner E-Clip. As soon as you have the plunger all back together, install it back onto the valve. Bend the tabs back down, making sure that the larger O-Ring has seated down into the valve.

If all the seals have seated up, you're ready for some non-leakin', 510-heatin' action! All for under a dollar($.66 was what it cost me).

Hope it helps, I KNOW these things are problematic. I have 3 of em, and they all leak(or leaked). Happy Wrenching!

Well, you're a cheap bastard Datsun owner, so just make your own! 😁

I started with a RDT button because you can get them on ebay for about $5, and they have an important feature you will see shortly...

Use a sharp knife or tiny screwdriver to pop the logo out, but make sure you save it...

Now use that logo to trace out the size/shape you need from something else. For this experiment, I just printed out some sakuras on plain paper...

Now very carefully cut that out and use some simple glue (like Elmer's white glue) to stick it down to the button...

Now here's a pro tip I learned the hard way, resin will soak into paper and make it look splotchy and gross. 😁

So if you use printed paper like I did, you have to coat it with something first. I used this because I had some handy, it dries quickly, and dries very hard and clear. 

Now you need to find a very level spot in your house (garage floor usually works well), and two identical height things to prop it up on (I used two spray paint lids) to keep it perfectly level for at least 12 hours. 

Once you do that, get some good clear resin (I used this because it has a UV coating built in), mix it per the directions, and carefully pour it into the button. 

If you want the cool rounded over effect common on most aftermarket horn buttons, you have to pour in a tiny bit too much. Hence the need to have it perfectly level. 

What I did was pour just enough in to get it to roll out to the edges on it's own, then a few drops extra. This kept it all inside the lip mentioned in step #1. Be sure to pour it in very slowly, a little bit at a time, because most clear resins take 12-24 hours to get hard so you have plenty of time to add more if you need it. If you put in too much, you're screwed, 😂

One more tip is if you use something that doesn't let resin soak into it, like a sticker/decal, you won't have to coat it or glue it down, which will save you a few steps. 😁

Okay, this is my attempt and installing a junkyard fan onto a Toyota 22RE radiator. The same principals apply to any radiator conversion so I figured I'd post it up here. The key is to find a fan close to your radiator in size.

I got my fan from a Nissan Quest. I decided to go this route because of OEM reliability and to compliment my freshly rebuilt motor. I couldn't find an actual step by step how-to, but there was still lots of directions out there. I didn't spend a lot of time looking either though. Hopefully this helps someone out.

THIS IS WHAT I DID / AM DOING. You do not have to do it this way. There are many alternatives, but this is what I think works best for my goals. And it'll be pretty.

Enough, let the pics do the talking.

Somehow we gotta get this:

Cooled by this over-sized monstrosity (radiator underneath):

Measure, measure, prep to cut, measure again. I won't give measurements, but cut to size to what you think is best. Orient the radiator to maximize / center cooling. DON'T FORGET THE FAN TO RADIATOR CLEARANCE

Let the hacking begin. Don't forget to measure. Don't forget to make trace lines, etc. When I cut my shroud, it was biased all the way flush to the left side and all the way up on the bottom edge to the mid point of the tank line where it curves back in. DON'T FORGET THE FAN TO RADIATOR CLEARANCE

I decided on the bottom of mine, that I wanted to try to seal it some but still provide adequate water and mud runoff. Here's what I devised. Notice most awesome lower radiator hose cutout LOL. Cut the bottom towards the middle then at 45's.

When all was said and done, this is what I cut off:

So now that it was all cut up, I was left with all these big gaps; what to do, what to do?

A lot of guys stuff weather stripping and other oddities in there which works. Again, all up to the owner, tools and budget. For me, I decided frame. After careful measurements again, I came up with some scrap 3/4" x 1/8" box tubing I had laying around. You can get it at Lowe's cheap. Broke out the welder.

Trim to fit. DON'T FORGET THE FAN TO RADIATOR CLEARANCE!:

So now it was time to devise mounting. I decided I wanted studs to hold everything together on the frame. Broke out the drill press. Using a uni-bit, drilled down, exactly 1/2" on one side, 5/16" on the other side. Allows me to drop bolts right in to make studs. BEFORE welding in the bolts though, line up the brackets, predrill your plastic using the bracket as the template. Then, drop in all the bolts and use the nuts to tighten them all down in a straight line.

Look how cute with the little muffler 😄

Carmax offers a 24 hour no questions asked test drive, and I have been wanting to see if I could either "borrow" a fun car that I want to drive (wrx, hellcat, corvette, etc) Or utilize this promotion for a truck if I ever needed to move a large item (couch, entertainment center etc) 

Anyways I picked up a ford raptor to haul a load or two to the new place... 

they give you 24 hours and 150 miles... you have to provide your own insurance with collision coverage etc, a valid cell phone in case they need to reach you, and sign a waiver saying you wont be under the influence, or do anything illegal... They actually encourage you to load your things in the car, and car seats for the kids etc give it a good try see if it fits your lifestyle etc...  Employees at carmax don't make commission and really don't care all that much if you buy a vehicle or not.. The process is nearly as smooth as renting a car at enterprise etc... took 30 minutes on a busy day at carmax with no appointment... 

they even scheduled me to test a jeep gladiator tomorrow when I drop off the raptor, so you can string a couple tests together if you are like me and trying to get some moving done...

I'll let you know if the return process is easy... 

😆

I figured this would come in handy for anyone buying second hand parts so I made this DIY carbon fiber restoration video! Here's a link to all of the gear I used in the video, 
Dewalt orbital sander: https://amzn.to/33VPxAb
Dry sandpaper: https://amzn.to/33Tt0UY
Wet sandpaper: https://amzn.to/3nJTlM6
Jaw Horse Vice: https://amzn.to/32WCQoU
Carbon Fiber Kit: https://amzn.to/3scjEvW

2K Clear Coat: https://amzn.to/34c7eMJ