Any help gratefully received. 

https://photos.app.goo.gl/nNomtUD65iidNexv7

First off my situation: I bought a 1981 Datsun Bluebird 910 Hardtop Coupe as my first car and drove it in questionable condition for half a year and fell in love with it. Now it's sitting and I need to replace parts to get it inspected.

It is not good condition looking at the body and suspension anymore. (rust, worn suspension and very bad paint) 

My question: Where can I find suspension bushings? I would like to get black polyurethane bushings because they last longer and ride better in the bends. I found the front shock absorber cartridges from KYB are still available and the rear struts are the same as the 280zx struts which are available as Bilstein B6 (24-000574). Where can I find the rest or should I give up and try 3D printing molds for the bushings?

Thanks.

Today I went to look at the arc of my rear leafs only to find that they are now bent almost completely straight. I have been looking at ways to fix this issue, but have not come up with a ton.

Please offer any and all advice you may have for dealing with this issue!

Some things to consider:

   - I am on a tight budget of $250 as I am a college student

   - This fix must be something a friend and I could pull off in a weekend or maybe two

   - I would still like my truck to have near stock suspension travel as I enjoy light off-roading

   - Quality of ride isn't too awful (but I am not seeking perfection here)

*Note - I am open to some wild ideas here as long as they will work! Some ideas I have tossed around so far include replacing the stock springs with those for a trailer (problem I ran into is none of them are long enough), buying shock/coil spring combos to replace my current shocks (unsure if this idea would even work, but I love the idea of it), or even sticking a cheap air suspension bag in parallel with each spring (unsure if it would give me enough suspension travel)

I'm new here and I'm sure this question has been asked. I been into datsuns since a kid but could mainly only afford the trucks. I recently picked up a 69 510 and man it's a whole other machine.  Long story short I'm now learning about 510s and I love them. The guy had switched the og suspension with 1982ish 200sx shocks/struts? I came across some 240sx godspeed coilovers.  My question is since it's been somewhat converted would the 240sx work?

Thank you in advance 

I've noticed after driving and inspecting that even though they don't appear to be backing off yet, the big mounting nuts are only engaging about 3/4 of the threads. It almost appears as if they've backed off but I don't recall what they looked like when I first installed them, I just wrenched until they were tight. 

Should I have left the big washers off since these arms use spherical joints in place of rubber? Can I get more clearance on the bolt if I back off the smaller nut on the front of the x member and dead blow them through the xmember? Both?

I'm hesitant to continue driving it until I can sort this out. Any input is appreciated.

Apparently there is no bushing kit for the a10. what other vehicle bushing kit(s) can i use for the a10? looking for a complete polyurethane bushing replacement.

thanks!

Free lenght is 21.0", the valving, feels good, pretty heavy, I measured my old shocks at 22" FL, plenty of compression and rebound, gas charge still working, I calculated the working height to be about 18.0".

On-line research shows a close part number, not exact, belongs to the Corolla family, probably the EA86.

I'm sure their fine to work with my genuine BRE rear springs, just wondering if the community has seen these shocks before? 

Secondly I also picked up 2 48521-35880 shocks, waaay too short for our rear application, free lenght of 13.5" which makes a working lenght probably 9.0"

Lastly, how can I share images off my phone? I only see insert from URL available.

I got the DP Racing Delrin bushing kit with needle bearing thrust washer (PN 224-2101)

When i got the idler arm off, you could clearly see the bushing rubber was melting and dripping out, the drip had congealed - there is no heat source near the idler arm, the melting was coming from shear friction as the arm itself was cycling. this car is only driving on race tracks.

i also got the DP racing Idler frame channel doubler kit - and that's a good idea because when i took this one off (and it clearly had been on there for 40 plus years) the washers on the wheel well side were distorted and 'coning' into the bolt holes - this was also surprising.

this is stock as removed, note drip at bottom

this is a close up of the melted rubber coming out

new DP racing bushing installed, note Torrington needle bearing thrust washer

both bushings and sleeve installed, ready for re-assembly.

I tried searching but nothing was coming up or keeps showing me stuff on other cars. My memory is off so wanted to get confirmation from folks that have a 280Z that if you use a coil over conversion kit like GC or T3 and want to shorten the stock housings that you can use a MR2 rear shock for the front and use a 240Z insert in the rear? Also looking for any feedback.

Thank you

Thanks!

BTW it be a 70' UTE.

Lates

Hey, y'all, (I'm new here so go easy on me)

I super recently picked up an auto '83 S110 200SX. It has loads of quirks that I need to figure out, and one of them is the steering that's a bit weird (perhaps from the brakes?), it wants to go left every time I brake, and it feels a bit loose sometimes or shudders at 45+ mph. 

I was wondering if there are any suspension parts from the S13 that I can transplant to make it drive a bit better and perhaps make it easier to lower. I currently have a set of S13 hubs and almost everything for the front suspension (control arms, hubs, knuckles, spindles, and a set of Z32 front brakes), but no coilovers or struts, I can also pull some parts from a Z31 in my backyard if its easier that way but otherwise I would most definitely prefer the S13 stuff since it's way cheaper to buy.

Is it plausible (and how hard is it) for me to change up the front suspension using the S13 parts, or should I just stick to the OEM one that I currently have and try fixing things from there? I tried searching on Google and on this website about S13 suspension compatibility, but all the leads I found ended up with a dead link. 

Thanks in advance, and glad to be here!

(I have more random nissan/datsun cars but right now I'm a bit focused on the 200, since its the only one in a condition that I can take it out for somewhat long drive.)

I daily drive it on the freeway 20ish miles and there are plenty of mountain roads to have fun on around here. Just need more confidence in the steering feel.

Car info:

Full t3 coilovers and front end (control arms, camber plates, TC rods etc

Front 14x6.5 w/ 185/55

Rear 14x7 w/185/55

And I've been trying different psi

Front sway

New Drag links

Ermish Idler

Subi CLSD

Current alignment specs I found on Dime quarterly or realm I think. They were on a street/autocross car and seemed to have good results from the original poster.

Front Left:

Camber -1

Caster +1.80

Toe +0.04

Front Right:

Camber -1

Caster +2.30

Toe +0.04

Rear was just left as is with no adjustment.

Let me know what you think. Thanks.

When looking, seems like all of them are the same, Left and Right. 

https://www.ebay.com/itm/387886693539

According to the website it fits left, and Right

Do they have to be different? If so, where should I order them from ? 

Looking from some advice.

Current setup...

Front; Factory 810 (200b) front struts and springs with Bilstein inserts, stock sway bar (1969).

Rear; Kings rally spec springs, Bilstein shocks, no sway bar.

Diff; Subaru STi R180 2 way plate LSD with Datsun output shafts.

I don't want to lower the car more, or make it harder. It has reasonable road manners and will always be a road car first. Yes, better tyres will help too. Already thinking about that.

So thoughts? Sway bars? Rear? Diameter?

www.FutoFab.com

FutoFab is becoming known for its fiberglass Datsun 510 parts, but we have not forgotten our fabrication roots, where we started. We are now announcing a new line of parts for the Datsun 510, adjustable tension and control rods and adjustable lower control arms.

FutoFab’s adjustable Tension Control Rods use a ball/socket forward pivot with a bellows dust cover. It bolts directly into the forward TC mount on the 510 chassis. A yellow cad plated bracket mounts to the stock lower control arm. The TC Rod’s rear clevis mounts to the bracket using a 3/8” NAS bolt and locking jet nut. Adjustment is done by turning the threaded front ball/socket stud into the aluminum coupler.

Link to FutoFab’s Adjustable TC Rod with more detail:

FutoFab Adjustable TC Rod

FutoFab’s Adjustable Lower Control Arms for the Datsun 510 will also the B210, 610 & 710. These control arms use an adjuster with right and left threads. By backing off the jamb nuts and turning the adjuster, the length of the LCA can be changed without unbolting it from the car. The design allows use of the original ball joint, sway bar links and pivot hardware.

Link to FutoFab’s Adjustable Lower Control Arm with more detail:

FutoFab Adjustable Lower Control Arm

As an introductory offer, both adjustable lower control arms and tension control rods are being offered as a package for $395/set + $15 S&H within the continental US. Offer good thru April 30, 2010.

These components are direct bolt-on parts, everything needed is included. No need to modify your chassis or source additional parts to make these parts fit. It’s as simple as removing the old and bolting on the new.

Introductory Offer - FutoFab Adjustable TC Rods & LCA package - $395/set + $15 S&H within the continental US.

Offer good thru April 30, 2010.

The FutoFab TC Rod sets sell for $205/set + $15 S&H within the continental US.

The FutoFab LCA sets sell for $235/set + $15 S&H within the continental US.

This has got me thinking about the angle on the halfshafts and how as the rear wheel gains camber and the angle of the diff output flanges vs the stub axle flanges becomes pretty different.

Is there any go to method to correct the rear camber on 510's beside the full rear end setups like apex engineered sell?  Has anyone butchered the trailing arms to put camber back in?  Or is there a decent result from the adjustable trailing arm mounts?

Thanks

Im guessing ill probably just put 2" blocks in the back, but the front has me a tad confused.

Ive read different ideas about it eg cut springs, coilovers etc but not sure what to do. This will br a family car as well and ideally dont want to cut springs if poss. HELP haha