while driving my truck the trans seems very quite and shifts like a dream.  I currently have the trans out of the truck would it be wise to go ahead and change the problem bearing or is it rare that these bearings give problems 

But now I have no clutch disengagement. I put it in R with the clutch pressed, and it started to grind then went into R and the truck lurched backwards with my foot still pressed on the clutch. I tried starting in 1st with the clutch pressed and it jumps forward while cranking. 

I replaced the clutch master 2yrs ago, and today saw the slave moving back and forth as it should.

So my question is, is there some crap ass nldv for the clutch, is there a trick to get a possibility stuck clutch disk/pressure plate unstuck? 

Thoughts??

Thanks

The fluid was not looking great and I don't know the service history of the truck. It shifts pretty well, but it revs a little high on the first shift or 2 from 1st to 2nd after starting. A little rougher than normal, but not a major jerk or anything. Is that normal behavior for this transmission?

Thanks,

Jake

auto but the manual has CA71B #1 stamped on it's bell housing, is this the right id number or 

do I need to look somewhere else?

https://i.imgur.com/aUJ3A5B.mp4

I have some clutch chatter that I also need to fix - I had replaced the clutch but the chatter remains. I had not resurfaced the flywheel, and maybe there is also grease  on the surface as per this thread: 

The clutch chatter is very audible when partially disengaging the clutch (partially pressing on the clutch pedal) and the engine speed is low - noticeable in any gear. Most of the noise seems to come from the propeller shaft rotational "bounce" due to the slop.

https://i.imgur.com/qx2g4Sc.mp4

So I wonder if I have 2 problems, the diff slop and the clutch chatter or if the only problem here is the chatter.

Thanks for the help.

'70 510 2 door automatic

TL;DR - While I have the transmission out of the car, do you recommend any service? Rebuild, filter+flush? 

I bought this car in 2010. Ran it for 2-3 years with no real issues. Had to park it in storage as I traveled for work. Finally got it out and have some money to get decent body and paint work done. I have the Transmission, drive shaft, differential, and axles out of the car to address some underbody rust. I have never worked on a transmission and am hesitant to do so. In the Atlanta area, I have called 6 shops and none of them will even let me bring it in to look at. Is it worth continuing to find someone to at least open and inspect it? Or should I leave it as is and just top off fluid when I put it back in the car. Thanks in advance. 

When it was running, driveline never gave me any issues. No clunk, vibration, hard shift, etc....

To make sure I know my car, the stock trans+diff for this model is the 3N71B automatic and r160? (Still figuring out how to post pics)

the Datsun parts re-org and cleanout is continuing apace at my place. We did our transmission assessment in the previous palooza...now it's diff time!

I haven't counted them all up yet because I haven't dug them all out yet, I can see several in the large heavy parts pile I haven't mined down to, yet. Others are loose. 

I have at least three straight axle diff pumpkins and at least two IRS units, Z or 510 sedan as yet undetermined. 

I never spent much time messing with the diffs on my various rigs, they just worked...or didn't. Didn't swap any ratios or anything. I'm not sure where all these came from! I did have a sedan and a Z for a while, so the IRS versions make sense...but where did all the others come from?

I do recall something about picking up a taller live axle version to bump up the gearing on the blue 2000, which was a 1600 conversion and I've never been happy with the low ratio in the rear given modern highway speeds. I want lower cruise RPMs, I'm not much on the point it and punch low gearing torque performance range. I did not install it, and I'm sure that's one of the loose ones. 

Questions:

Can diffs sit for decades (out of the rain) and still be usable?

What do I look at/for to assess their condition? 

How do I tell which fixed axle diffs are for what? Was there a standard size? 

Same question on the IRS units. 

There is another still in the wagon. Unknown version but likely from a Z car. Got stuck in 5th, which sidelined the car for 9 years. Hence needing one!

1 U20 is one of the deadites. Shifts ok, but input shaft will not complete a turn in either direction before locking up... hard. 

The 4 speed 2nd from right has a cracked tail housing and frozen input shaft. 

The other three shift and input shafts turn fine. I did pull the dogleg trans for some reason or other, so technically it's suspect anyway. Thinking of opening it up, if I can figure out what it is maybe rebuild kits are around. 

I have no need for either 4 speed.  The U20 version which turns and shifts will be incorporated onto a mothballed U20, which we intend to build a run stand for. 

It's a 63A2 and has 2 switches. One had both wires broken off inside the rubber boot. I fixed the wires and reinstalled it. The trans is in reverse, but neither switch is showing continuity with a multimeter.

So, what do the switches do? What am I doing wrong?

I'm trying to find a source for a CLSD diff case. Anyone happen to have pictures or know what could be used? Could I use a VLSD R160 case perhaps? I'll pop open a non-lsd R160 and see how that compares. I'm guessing it's different though.

I have completed an overhaul on the driveshaft, had it rebalanced, new slip yoke and installed a new output shaft seal.  However, I may still have a small leak at the output shaft.  When I installed the new seal I cleaned the opening and installed the new seal using a large socket.  What I did not do was apply a silicone to the outside of the seal.  
 

I noticed in a previous post Mike you mentioned to someone to coat the outside of the seal with silicone.  
 

what type of silicone if I were to reinstall a new seal.  
 

thanks 

do you know what they are supposed to be?

how did you confirm or check them?

i was trying to check with a magnetic 'tilt box' i got from Lee Valley - but there doesn't appear to be a flat spot on the diff or the trans output flange

any help would be super - thanks

i'm wondering if others have experienced this issue.  I have a slow leak that appears to be coming from the end of the yoke near the U joint.  The  oil seal at the tail of the transmission is new and the yoke has been been re-sleaved.  this because i had the transmission replaced   last fall.  i have been taking to the shop that helped with the repairs.  unfirtunately they are 1000s of miles away so i cant just bring it back.  from what the shop explained is that the end of the yoke at the u joint that ties into the drive shaft, there is a steel plug which is pinned into the back of the yoke.  wondering if this is a common occurance?  have tried to seal it with JB weld, but not easy to get in there.  any help would be appreciated as always.  thanks.  FYI   if someone could explain how to upload photos to the chats that would be great.  have not figured that one out yet.

I just recently finished my 78 810's RB20de swap and have been enjoying it so far! I plan on taking it drifting very soon, and decided it was necessary to hook up the power steering based on my friend's negative experience drifting with a manual steering 510. The 810 use the same (I'm assuming since they look identical) steering box as 79-81 power steering equipped 280ZXs, but with the pitman arm flipped around.  I used a BMW E90 reservoir and a 6AN high pressure hose for a s13 240sx to make it all work. However, when I turn the wheel right it feels perfect! But... when I turn it left? Little to no assist at all! 

I bled all the air out of the system by turning the wheel lock to lock 50 times, and even opened the bleed valve on the box. No luck...

Also when I turn the wheel to the left I can hear a squealing noise coming from the box itself. This noise does not occur when turning right, and is not coming from the pump. 

What is going on!? Is my steering box shot? Let me know your opinions! Constructive criticism welcome. Thank you! 

i've got potentially a move cross-country in the future, so the big thing up first for me would likely be shifting the RPM down when at highway speeds as much as possible, with a better final drive gearing. i've had a hell of a time even finding the appropriate ring & pinion online and even if i could, i doubt being able to find someone who can do that job for me— and i'd be a little nervous about that being one of my earlier jobs myself.

presumably the easiest/best option would be to find an H190 in the 4.11 so i'm wondering if anyone on here has one i'd be able to buy off em, n' if people had some ideas otherwise...

i read that the 3.889 would be a little rough given the top speed of the truck already being on the lower end of things, so hopefully the 4.11 is a decent middle-ground for not grenading/overheating the l18 still in it on a long road trip if i'm headed back to the south eventually. 😛