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  2. jetattblue

    A Texas 320

    I have been following the 320 forum for a while because I recently purchased a '63 320. I have already received tons of great help from Ted Heaton, Mike Klotz, difrangia, Stoffregen Motorsports, emceefarlane; I thought that I'd pay it forward by starting a new thread about my truck and, selfishly, I know that I'll have questions for you, too! At any rate, I purchased my 320 several months ago, but I'm just now starting to actually put some time into it. I spent the first couple of months studying up, formulating a plan, purchasing some of the parts that I'll need, and finishing a Kubota tractor that I needed to finish before the grass started growing. Now, I've got a little bit of knowledge, a plan, some parts, and mowed grass; I'm ready to start on the 320!. Attached are some pictures of my truck before any work is started on it. Overall, the body is really straight and relatively rust free; there is rust in the floor pans and on the inner front fenders, so I'll need to tackle that at some point. It is currently a column shift, but I want to convert it to the correct floor shift. So far, I have the correct floor shift transmission and starter, a transmission tunnel that needs a little work, and some various clutch parts, etc. I feel very fortunate to have found these things. I actually spotted the corner of the floor shift transmission sitting in the back of a truck that was listed for sale as a parts truck. The seller is super cool and has hooked me up with lots of goodies. Part of my plan includes rebuilding the engine. I really don't know the truck's history, and I think it makes a lot of sense to get a fresh rebuild on it. So, I have started slowly disconnecting the various lines from it and the manifolds. And, this is where I made my first - of what will probably be many - surprises. I had assumed this was an E1, but the engine block is stamped J 1300, and the serial number on the block is J 151129. Is the block from a J13? The manifolds were E1; I could tell by their shape and they had the band versus the flange that connects the exhaust manifold to the exhaust pipe. Further, I believe the rocker cover is from an early E1 as it connects with 2 bolts in the middle rather than the series of smaller bolts around its perimeter. Here are some pics. I'd love to know your thoughts.
  3. Cant PM you. You have any motor mounts available?
  4. No, a Chevy in a Ford is completely acceptable. A Ford in a Chevy is not. I've got a 22RE in my '57 Land Rover, but I use the hell out of it, so...
  5. Heat and WD40. Heat it with a torch. Not overly hot, but maybe a couple hundred degrees. Enough so that when you squirt the ,metal with the WD40, it smokes like hell. After you've soaked the studs, try right away to break them free. If they don't budge, squirt them down good and walk away until it cools down, then try to remove them. Hitting the manifold around the stud with a hammer may also help to loosen them up. If they break...not the end of the world. Sucks, yeah, but nothing a grinder, centerpunch, drill and tap won't fix.
  6. Today
  7. Ray, what does that Kameari piece do? Does it replace the timing chain tensioner or something similar? Hope your ankle is doing better...
  8. What I have seen over the years is that for every 10 people on a forum who say "Make them, I'll buy one", that maybe 1 will actually buy. People who have never made anything from a raw chunk of material just don't understand the work involved, including things like locating material, cutting tools needed, design time, including things that don't quite come out as planned, and having to start over, even when done on CAD. That's why commercial machine shops charge by the hour to prototype an item, and that gets expensive. I feel for you Mike. Thanks for the effort !
  9. Yesterday, Magnus Walker posted on his Instagram account that if you ordered anything of his site, he would throw in a couple of Hot Wheels. So I ordered a shirt, have been wanting one for some time, and sure enough, the HW's where in there. But, I requested if he could autograph them and he did! Very cool!
  10. There aren't small cars today because of safety standards. It's not speed that kills you in a crash, it's the deceleration. Ever see a Smart car hit a concrete barricade? When you stop instantly, the front of your skull turns your brain into mush.
  11. Mike, that's too bad. I've always thought that you had some great potential for some cool parts, but I know there aren't always the buyers to make it worth your while. It seems like you've been taking on a lot of one-off jobs.
  12. Couple more questions, how do I go about plugging the coolant holes in the head and what is the big tube and can i/how do I plug it? Also is there a good trick for getting the studs out of the manifold where it attaches to the downpipe? Thanks
  13. Thanks! I've considered Patreon for some time now. My personal feeling is that the subscribers should get something special....more than just early access to the same video that will be put on youtube. I haven't done Patreon because I wasn't in a position to provide that special content for them. As I settle into this change, I may find that I can provide that and then I'll definitely see about setting that up. :)
  14. Depending on whether you have a round or oval port head I may have some gaskets. I've got a used set of GX double valve springs (good for 8000 RPMs but limit valve lift to around .4") which would work with a mild cam. I'll have to look and see what other goodies are in the cabinet I may have some valves that would offer a bit more flow. If you are going to build up the A15 I'd go with the Weber 32/36 carbs, clean up the ports, but a set of SI valves (the stems are narrowed for more flow), use a Delta 278 cam (.420 lift 278 duration) and Isky valve springs. That would net you an honest 100hp at the crank maybe a touch more. Delta will regrind the crank for $75-100, the springs are around $125-150, new lifters can be had from Rockauto, the valves are around $100-150 for the set. As for the rear brakes; as the RMB uses leaf springs perhaps you could use a Datsun back axle as I'd guess the track widths are pretty close? grant the wheel lug patterns are likely different so you'd need to have the axles redrilled…….might be simpler to mod the Riley brakes. If you use a a 510 wagon axle (H190) with aluminum center section in conjunction with the allow Z car drums the whole assembly is around 96lbs. That might also take off some more weight and help with the power brake dilemma.
  15. not sure on that one but the way i did my speedo cable was slightly easier because i tested fitted it when the dash was out so i knew exactly how to do it but the easiest way i found is to have someone push the cable towards you from inside the the hood its near the brake booster just move the cable from the inside to figure out which cable is the speedo cable and he can even pull it back initially to get it out of the way putting the cluster itself in but find out where the "clip" is on the tip of the cable so you can push that and pull it theres a big "nipple" on the back of the cluster the speedo connects too on the circle gauges cluster not 100% sure on the square one but i imagine it being really similar
  16. I know almost looks like a kids toy in the pic....
  17. vicdat

    LS1 into 620?

    Which is the correct toyota eng for a Datsun??? A Beams? I have an old 3sge celica, but a chevy in a ford / a toy in a Dat...that's sacrilegious if I'm not mistaken...
  18. The D21 into 620 pumpkin swap is pretty well known swap, I have two trucks daily driven both with near 100k on them after the swap. Both these trucks see lots of freeway, around town and occasional heavy lifting and the taller gearing (both have 3:70) has been a benefit in all aspects. Now if I lived in a more hilly area or were more of a hauling duties then it may not be the best..... ymmv 🙂
  19. yoloSun

    cannon manifold 821

    Help me understand how this part meters gas. I understand that when manifold vacuum drops, a rod is pushed down onto this part by a spring. I know that this vacuum is supplied by a hollow screw at the base of the carb and that it must not be mixed up with the other long non-hollow screw. What I don't understand is this single tiny hole? How does it work?
  20. Easy for me, as I sell & ship lots of 510 parts! PM me for details! TJ Denver CO
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